take a look at your differential supports too. My bushing was separated and was giving me huge clunking problems
Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter cruisermon
- Start date
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Good idea, will check those as well!
Hoping the noise was the ball joint.
Mine did not show any play with any of the normal steps to check it. Vehicle was supported front and rear on jack stands with tires unsupported, no play. To check I did the 12-6 push pull test, as well as placed a large pry bar under the tire and tried to lift the tire.
Then I tried putting a jack under the lower control arm and tried the tests again (while still on jack stands) and no play again.
Only when the vehicle had all tires on the ground, DS LCA lifted via jack could I notice some play in the ball joint via the pry bar method. It would move about 1/8", so not a ton, but the PS was rock solid.
I've spent in total about 9 hours trying to get the lower ball joint to pop free of the spindle.
Tried putting the lower control arm at normal height (supported by jack) and at full droop, tried ball joint forks, beat on it with a sledge, sledge and fork at same time, tried a pulley puller as my ball joint separator won't fit in there, tried torching it.
Finally the morning I said F it and cut through it with a sawzall. It is definitely heat treated and hard as heck. Once I cut through it then I was able to use the ball joint separator kit from auto zone to pop that SOB out. Now to finish the rest of it lol....
re_guderian
SILVER Star
If boots a torn does it effect the function of the ball joint.I changed mine less then 6 months ago upper boots in upper ball joints one is torn already maybe time for new ball joints.
They will still work, but just wear faster.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
This puller worked on my lower joint without removing the dust shield. Bought at O'Rielly's. Performance Tool W80653.
I went in to get the front end aligned and was told the lower ball joints are bad. I found Moog brand ball joints for $50 and the complete control arm (with ball joint and bushings) for $115. With 210k on the clock I'm thinking hard about getting new control arms but I'm not sure how involved it will get. Any comments???
I know it's tempting but don't do it. Either find some 555 branded ball joints (made in Japan) or go with oem control arms. The moogs will wear out in short order.
Based on what others have stated, NAPA sells 555 lower ball joints for ~$55.
My Napa has the 555 ball joints for $45 each and they have a deal going all month too. Buy this bucket and get the 20% off qhen you add 3 or more items too the bucket.
Walked out for under $70 with the ball joints, bucket and brake cleaner!
Walked out for under $70 with the ball joints, bucket and brake cleaner!
Thanks for this!!!
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
Completed replacing my lower ball joints last night. It wasn't hard at all, just time consuming. I was having a really hard time separating the ball joint from the knuckle so I decided to break out the air hammer with a pickle fork attachment. I got both sides off in about 20 minutes with that, and that was after beating on one side for about an hour. I couldnt see myself doing this job again without one.
Yes! I will be buying this tool. Much prefer this method over the sledge or pickle fork.
@soreneagle of course you post this the day after I buy a 555 on Amazon for 88$ haha (thankfully prime has easy returns). Called Napa and they will have me one there tomorrow and are doing the bucket 20% off deal. I need to replace a LCA bushing and my PS ball joint is looking a little suspect as well, so may as well replace it while taking everything apart.
$87 out the door!
Well, I got it done... I bought the pully puller shown earlier in the thread and was able to get one side free. The other side wouldn't come free no matter what. I ended up cutting it as shown by Layonnn and it worked like a charm.
Also, I used an old trick my dad taught me. Put the new ball joints in the freezer when you get them. Only pull them out just before you're ready to install them. Freezing them makes them a hair smaller and therefore a little easier to install.
Also, I used an old trick my dad taught me. Put the new ball joints in the freezer when you get them. Only pull them out just before you're ready to install them. Freezing them makes them a hair smaller and therefore a little easier to install.
Update: To answer my own questions 
For the on-the-truck method - two questions:
Q: Is there enough play to pull the hub off without pulling the calipers? The bolts on mine are frozen (torch, penetrating oil etc and no luck so far - I wanted to take a step back on that one if possible. It probably needs a disassembly and soak in oil.).
A: Theoretically there probably is but just don't do it. Remove the caliper bolts. My upper bolt came loose with a full seven minutes of the torch. The flame changed from blue to yellow-green the moment that the sealant finally vaporized and out-gassed.
Q: Should the hub just slide off after you've taken off the CV axle snap ring?
A: Yes but it took a very gentle tap with a rubber mallet.
For the on-the-truck method - two questions:
Q: Is there enough play to pull the hub off without pulling the calipers? The bolts on mine are frozen (torch, penetrating oil etc and no luck so far - I wanted to take a step back on that one if possible. It probably needs a disassembly and soak in oil.).
A: Theoretically there probably is but just don't do it. Remove the caliper bolts. My upper bolt came loose with a full seven minutes of the torch. The flame changed from blue to yellow-green the moment that the sealant finally vaporized and out-gassed.
Q: Should the hub just slide off after you've taken off the CV axle snap ring?
A: Yes but it took a very gentle tap with a rubber mallet.
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Not sure if you really need to remove the hub/rotor, just the wheel to get better access to the LBJ. The dust shield bends easily so be careful. But to answer your question, you'll need to remove the caliper to remove the hub/rotor. You'll need to remove the snapring, flange, and the locking nuts that hold the hub/rotor on the spindle. Good opportunity to repack bearings and grease spindle bearings. See Bearing repack GURUs for good tips.
Doesn't the CV axle come out the back of the rotor/hub once the snap ring is off? I would very much prefer to get the calipers off but am in a bit of a bind given how stuck they are at present. I think that like a lot of parts on my truck there's not heavy rust but they haven't been apart since Feb of 98....
@98100Crusher
Study-
Use a 18” x 1/2” breaker bar on those caliper bolts. Use some heat too. They can be stubborn.
Study-
Use a 18” x 1/2” breaker bar on those caliper bolts. Use some heat too. They can be stubborn.
