Get yourself a 3/4 breaker bar, trust me it will be your favorite new tool. Then the caliper bolts will come off. The bolts have sealer on them which can really make tough to break loose.
Remove bolt holding bracket (brake line & speed sensor brackets) on knuckle. Just pull the bolt holding brake line on bracket, often damages smaller bracket
Clean axle, then grease axle bushing & needle bearings before assembly.
Check snap ring gap before finishing up. Make sure you pull axle out very hard to press the grease you just put in back side (don't over grease). Otherwise you'll get false gap reading, that will loosen/widen as you drive.
Use red loctite on TRE and caliper bolts.
Some picture: Ball joint & ABS unit replacement plus stuff.. on 98LC W/151K
- Remove bolts holding wheel speed sensor and brake line bracket, move out of the way with caliper.
- Remove the caliper and hang out of the way.
- Loosen nut off upper ball joint, release with puller.
- Release TRE by removing the two bracket bolts. 3/4 breaker bar again.
- Release lower ball joint. It is being replaced so it does matter if thread damaged. So pound it out with 5lb sledge, with bottle jack under LCA
- Pull grease cap and snap ring.
- Remove hub/rotor/knuckle as one assemble.
- Tie axle up out of the way.
Remove bolt holding bracket (brake line & speed sensor brackets) on knuckle. Just pull the bolt holding brake line on bracket, often damages smaller bracket
Clean axle, then grease axle bushing & needle bearings before assembly.
Check snap ring gap before finishing up. Make sure you pull axle out very hard to press the grease you just put in back side (don't over grease). Otherwise you'll get false gap reading, that will loosen/widen as you drive.
Use red loctite on TRE and caliper bolts.
Some picture: Ball joint & ABS unit replacement plus stuff.. on 98LC W/151K
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