Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Get yourself a 3/4 breaker bar, trust me it will be your favorite new tool. Then the caliper bolts will come off. The bolts have sealer on them which can really make tough to break loose.

• Remove bolts holding wheel speed sensor and brake line bracket, move out of the way with caliper.
• Remove the caliper and hang out of the way.
• Loosen nut off upper ball joint, release with puller.
• Release TRE by removing the two bracket bolts. 3/4 breaker bar again.
• Release lower ball joint. It is being replaced so it does matter if thread damaged. So pound it out with 5lb sledge, with bottle jack under LCA
• Pull grease cap and snap ring.
  
• Remove hub/rotor/knuckle as one assemble.
• Tie axle up out of the way.

Tips:

Remove bolt holding bracket (brake line & speed sensor brackets) on knuckle. Just pull the bolt holding brake line on bracket, often damages smaller bracket

Clean axle, then grease axle bushing & needle bearings before assembly.

Check snap ring gap before finishing up. Make sure you pull axle out very hard to press the grease you just put in back side (don't over grease). Otherwise you'll get false gap reading, that will loosen/widen as you drive.

Use red loctite on TRE and caliper bolts.

Some picture: Ball joint & ABS unit replacement plus stuff.. on 98LC W/151K

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

My Napa has the 555 ball joints for $45 each and they have a deal going all month too. Buy this bucket and get the 20% off qhen you add 3 or more items too the bucket.

Walked out for under $70 with the ball joints, bucket and brake cleaner!

View attachment 1499097

That is an awesome bucket!

 

[98100Crusher]

Another technique to try for getting LBJ to pop: Use a C-clamp to squeeze between the top of the LBJ and the bottom of the knuckle. My reasoning was that all you are trying to do is get the static friction/corrosion to release so squeezing a fraction was just as good as pushing from bottom and squeezing means the alignment of the force was straight along the LBJ stud. I used a 6" c-clamp. Squeezed on it twice and then tapped the bottom with a 5lb mallet once. This was after trying pickle forks and pounding on it with mallet for a couple hours.

 

[brownfox]

I just finished this yesterday. I had the arms off, but could situate them in my press so I went with the small ball joint press kit from harbor freight, Maddox is the brand they are calling it now.

I could have borrowed a similar model from advance but it was cheap enough from HF and I didn’t want to be rushed on my timeline.

They pressed out fine, but I couldn’t find the right adaptors to press them back in. Then I learned you can remove the boot to get more surface for the adaptor. However, I couldn’t find a short enough sleeve to receive the ball joint through the top. This was counting the adaptor plates and everything inside the c clamp. I ended up cutting the middle sized sleeve in the Maddox kit into 2/3 and 1/3 pieces. Got it started with the 1/3 piece, then finished with the 2/3, then slipped the boot on.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Did all 4 of mine with three fives while on the car. Used the big rental ball joint kit from advance Auto. Knocked it out in about 4 hours start to finish, took the time to re-gap my c-clip on my CV axle and did a full cleaning and repack of my needle bearings.

I was already pulling torsion bars to install ome ones, I didn't include that time in the 4 hours above. I'd add an extra hour for that.

I left all arms on the vehicle and was able to flip the C - press the way I needed to. Plenty of adapters. My trick to take the top balljoint out with it on the vehicle is to use a cutoff wheel. Cut the leg off the joint, takes 10 seconds and you can use all kinds of combinations to push it out then.

For the lower ball joint my final recipe was: loosen the top ball joint and BFH it loose, but put the castle nut back on a few turns. This keeps weight from the spindle and brake horizontal, straight down on the lower ball joint.

Then remove lower ball joint castle and just toss it. When you hit it with a hammer it mashes all to hell and won't come off without cutting it loose. Jack up lower control arm as high as possible so you have max swinging room. I used a 2 pound dead blow and it worked, but a 3+ would be choice. Hit it with some torch heat, I found 60 seconds dead in the center of the mount softened it enough. Couple good hits and it's loose. If you mash the end up too bad, your cutoff wheel takes care of it.

Extra things that helped:

1. remove all of the grease boots and install them after the joint is in.
2. I used my snap ring pliers to force the upper ball joint c clips open enough to put them on. They kept slipping and it was driving me nuts, so I took a 1/16 drillbit and just drilled holes in the tips of the c clip for my snap ring pliers to go. Life got easy in the 30 seconds it took to drill those holes and I didn't scratch the ball joint putting this on.
3. Pull the lower ball joint arm out towards you when taking the hub on or off, gives you enough clearance for it to drop away.
4. Definitely use the opportunity to clean, inspect, and grease up the needle bearings.


I had torn boots and a clunk from the drivers side. Figured it was the ball joints, but shockingly after 175k my factory joints were still tight and serviceable. Could have rebooted them. Turns out it was either my cv axles c clip was to thin (put the cruiser outfitter ones in to gap it right) or the sway bar bushings I swapped out with new stuff. Clunk over bumps is gone.

@cruiseroutfit , thanks goes out to Chris! He talked me through what I needed and had a great price on the full ball joint set. They were packaged up awesome and had them on the truck heading my way super fast.

I would have paid way more trying to source the same ball joints myself.

 

[AlpineAccess]

One thing to add. MVP of this job goes to my 1/2" electric impact. If you don't have one but work on land cruisers, it really is a game changer.

 

[ikellymo]

I'm putting in 555's. Do I need to remove the boot or grease them?

 

[2001LC]

Yes remove the boot to get the install tool on sung. The sung fit helps keep ball joint aligned as you press in.

You do not need to lube them. Just keep very clean until boot back on.

 

[ikellymo]

Yes remove the boot to get the install tool on sung. The sung fit helps keep ball joint aligned as you press in.

You do not need to lube them. Just keep very clean until boot back on.

Thanks! I finished it yesterday... Learned the hard way that the boots need to come off. Seems like the I might try to get a second snap rings off McMaster to fill the gap.

 

[2001LC]

I'd just keep and eye on for now, it's not likely to move.

 

[Flipped Bezel]

Hey guys. Love the forum. Been lurking for a while and have made use of some great intel here already (door panel and head unit removals for speaker replacements and bluetooth add-on) on my newly acquired higher mileage 2005. Before purchase, I had a local guy do a pre-purchase inspection. Mostly came back recommending work on wear and tear items but looks to be a sound vehicle otherwise. Amongst other things, the lower ball joints apparently in need of replacing soon.

I am a reasonable DIYer but don't have a lot of wrenching experience. Found this thread and also the video below that makes me think I could tackle this project myself. Wondering if anyone would be willing to watch the video and see what comments folks might have on the technique shown and what differences I could expect to encounter on the LC. Kind of a longer video, so a big ask for a newbie I know.

Hoping it will be helpful for others as well. Thanks in advance!!

@RambleOn the video was a big help for a first time balljoint replacement. The kit illustrated in the video was the same one I was able to source at a local Autozone...my right lower balljoint boot suffered an unseen tear and ultimately caused the joint to go bad. There was almost 1/4" of play up and down when the damaged joint was discovered.

Many, many thanks for the write-up!!! I am a noob to ball joints, but I had one screeching this week that had to be fixed. No torn boot, but a creak over every bump, and with every turn. Turned out to be rusty. Got a 555 from Napa for 50 bucks, and went to it today using this guide. It covers everything pretty good, but I'll add a few of my notes that will hopefully make it faster for folks.

• I would recommend just cracking the steering rod bracket bolts, but not removing them, before loosening the upper and lower ball joints. Otherwise the knuckle just flops around when you're cranking on the ball joint nuts.
• If you get a 555 ball joint, the nut is a 27mm, so you can have one ready. OEM lower ball joint is a 24mm nut.
• Also specific to the 555 (maybe others?). I had to remove the rubber boot to get to the correct pressing surface.
• The standard Ball Joint Press kits suck. AutoZone is stocking a new one that has a bazillion adapters, and given the length of the ball joint, thickness of the control arm, and smallness of the press opening, this is a good thing. It's Powerbuilt kit 46, and has 23 pieces. I could not get the O'Rielly ball joint press to work. Out of the massive kit, the 2 1/4" OD, 2" ID 2" length cup worked for the bottom, and 2 1/2" OD, 2 1/4" ID 3/4" tall receiver worked on top with the big disc thingy on top. Have to remove boot to get to the right surface.

View attachment 1463655

• From the 2000 FSM, here are the relevant torque specs.
  • Lower ball joint 117 ft-lbf
  • Upper ball joint 125 ft-lbf
  • Brake caliper bolts 90 ft-lbf
  • Steering knuckle arm bolts 108 ft-lbf
  • ABS speed senor harnes 2x10 ft-lbf, 1x21 ft-lbf, or "about that tight."

View attachment 1463656

• The knuckle assembly is stupid-heavy. I used a bucket to lower it on to.
• A five gallon bucket upside down next to the brake caliper makes a handy resting spot for the caliper.
• I had to beat the holy hell out of the OEM lower ball joint with a pickle fork to get it to pop loose.

My UBJ is shot, 1/16"+ of movement, and torn boot, I have SPC's going on next week.

Again, thanks for the write up, it enabled someone who was previously paranoid about removing steering knuckles to go for it (albeit rediculously slowly) I now have buttery smooth, quiet turns and bumps.

@re_guderian your data and experiences added to this thread were also super helpful...like you I also sourced my replacement balljoint at a local Napa since Cruiser Outfitters was still waiting on a shipment of these to arrive when I called to order.

I will also add that I used a 1-1/16" socket that I already had on hand instead of purchasing a 27 MM to tighten the Three Five castle nut. Also in my application, since I have had SPC UCA's installed for the last 148k miles, after re-assembly I torqued the castle nut back to 45 ft/lbs and checked to ensure that the top nut was still torqued to 150 ft/lbs (with a 1-1/4" socket).

Also after reading reports that other poster's 555 joints flash rusting quickly after installations, I applied quick coats of primer/rustoleum to top flat of the balljoint and c-clip after my installation was completed. All in all it was a very easy installation with the right press/sleeves and the guidance provided by this thread. Thanks to all others who have posted their advice and experiences here!

 

[MJK]

Thanks to all those who contributed to this thread. A few tips from this thread really helped me out.

The 2" pipe nipple is a must have for the 555 LBJs. 2 1/8" exhaust pipe adapter fits perfectly, but crushed.
Putting a jack under the LCA to do all this saved a ton of time, it also helped when replacing sway bar drop link cushions.
Cutting off the pin proved to be the easiest way to press out the UBJs in situ.
Putting a sleeve over the cone washers allowed me to really wallop the studs without the brass bar skipping off the stud.

 

[Biga27110]

Thanks to all those who contributed to this thread. A few tips from this thread really helped me out.

The 2" pipe nipple is a must have for the 555 LBJs. 2 1/8" exhaust pipe adapter fits perfectly, but crushed.
Putting a jack under the LCA to do all this saved a ton of time, it also helped when replacing sway bar drop link cushions.
Cutting off the pin proved to be the easiest way to press out the UBJs in situ.
Putting a sleeve over the cone washers allowed me to really wallop the studs without the brass bar skipping off the stud.

I just reviewed the entire thread for the install i dont understand what a 2inch nipple pipe is and what its for, along with the exhaust pipe.

 

[DuckLN]

Go by a pumbling specialty shop and tell them you need a 2 1/8 i.d. pipe cut to 3/4 inch in length. Then get an additional piece cut to 1 3/4 inches. Those worked for me with a rental ball joint press. Gettowork!

 

[MJK]

I just reviewed the entire thread for the install i dont understand what a 2inch nipple pipe is and what its for, along with the exhaust pipe.

Both have roughly the same ID, which you will need to press in the 555 LBJ. The pipe fitting is thicker/stronger, and therefore preferable IMO. You'll need to cut either to length to be able to fit them in the OTC press, or you can do as @DuckLN suggests above to produce this:

(not my photos, but to help you get the idea)

 

[Biga27110]

ahh i see, so the rental press isnt going to work without those custom pieces?

 

[Beto Cruiser]

I just reviewed the entire thread for the install i dont understand what a 2inch nipple pipe is and what its for, along with the exhaust pipe.

A pipe nipple is a piece of pipe that is threaded on both ends.
2 inch refers to the diameter. You want a 2 inch diameter pipe nipple that is a short as possible (look for "close" pipe nipples).
Most 2" pipe nipples have the perfect diameter to fit around the bottom side of the ball joint to cup it when pressing the new joint in.
Here is an example: 5P732 2" Close Black Pipe Nipple Sch 40 | Zoro.com
I found a few options at home depot. Check normal pipe section as well as conduit section.

Most rental presses can press the old joints out without any extras, but they won't be able to press the new lower ball joints in without extras.

 

[Biga27110]

A pipe nipple is a piece of pipe that is threaded on both ends.
2 inch refers to the diameter. You want a 2 inch diameter pipe nipple that is a short as possible (look for "close" pipe nipples).
Most 2" pipe nipples have the perfect diameter to fit around the bottom side of the ball joint to cup it when pressing the new joint in.
Here is an example: 5P732 2" Close Black Pipe Nipple Sch 40 | Zoro.com
I found a few options at home depot. Check normal pipe section as well as conduit section.

Most rental presses can press the old joints out without any extras, but they won't be able to press the new lower ball joints in without extras.

Omg thank you thats a huge thing i missed about pressing the new one in. thanks for the link.

I found this video it might help others understand all the steps too.

 

[DuckLN]

The 2 1/8 inch inside diameter pipe works perfect to install 555 lower ball joints. I did both sides about 3 weeks ago. Note that you use a small pic or flat head screw driver to remove a ring that holds the rubber boot on. Once removed, you’ll see the surface that you want to press and of course after install you’ll put the boot back on. I had to put some muscle on a medium cheater bar to get them to press in but it happened pretty quick.

 

[Biga27110]

The 2 1/8 inch inside diameter pipe works perfect to install 555 lower ball joints. I did both sides about 3 weeks ago. Note that you use a small pic or flat head screw driver to remove a ring that holds the rubber boot on. Once removed, you’ll see the surface that you want to press and of course after install you’ll put the boot back on. I had to put some muscle on a medium cheater bar to get them to press in but it happened pretty quick.

Another good nuanced tip. Remove the boot before being pressed in.