2001LC
SILVER Star
You've answered yourself. Cotter pin locks castle nuts, and best too bent one cotter pin into crown of nut and one down (as you've done). Grease is fine. helps inhibit rust.
Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruisermon
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I’m stuck. Can’t separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
@98100Crusher cam you elaborate on your C-clamp method? I bought a 6” one hoping your technique will save me from cutting the LBJ shaft as a last resort. I’m not understanding how you applied the C-clamp though.
@98100Crusher cam you elaborate on your C-clamp method? I bought a 6” one hoping your technique will save me from cutting the LBJ shaft as a last resort. I’m not understanding how you applied the C-clamp though.
Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of that step. Based on my wording from 2018 (below), what I think I did was to clamp between these two points in photo below with the driving end at the bottom.
'Another technique to try for getting LBJ to pop: Use a C-clamp to squeeze between the top of the LBJ and the bottom of the knuckle. My reasoning was that
all you are trying to do is get the static friction/corrosion to release so squeezing a fraction was just as good as pushing from bottom and squeezing means
the alignment of the force was straight along the LBJ stud.'
2001LC
SILVER Star
Some have luck with pickle fork. Others beat on knuckle, personally I don't. @re_guderian posted this puller Performance Tool W80653, said works with brake dust shield on
I use a ball joint puller Evertough 67025. But it requires removing brake dust shield, or it gets bend getting puller on knuckle. The 67021, "may" fit on without removing brake dust shield.
You may find this video helpfully, once knuckle out of your way.
I use a ball joint puller Evertough 67025. But it requires removing brake dust shield, or it gets bend getting puller on knuckle. The 67021, "may" fit on without removing brake dust shield.
You may find this video helpfully, once knuckle out of your way.
I used a tool like this one for all the joints, except the lower ball joint. It would flex, the joint wouldn't budge, and upon loosening the tool it would shoot across the garage with alarming force. We were dumb enough to do this twice before changing tactics.
Beating on the knuckle with a big hammer knocked it loose with a few well-placed thwacks.
Beating on the knuckle with a big hammer knocked it loose with a few well-placed thwacks.
GOT IT! Both sides separated!
The best advice I received was from a retired, seasoned mechanic from NY named Stephen who works at my local AutoZone. Super nice guy and he rocks a rad ‘stache, so you know he’s legit!
He was even willing to stop by my house and help me if it didn't work. I was there to buy a 2/3 jaw puller and he’s like “don’t get that, here’s what you do…” He said I need to arrange things so that I have clear access to that spot on the steering knuckle and then hit with my BFH using two hands like I really mean it.
Here's what I did:
+ Turned front wheels to full lock on the side I was working on. So on passenger side, wheels were cranked all the way to the right. On driver's side, wheels were cranked all the way to the left. This rotated the steering knuckle into a better position with much more direct access.
+ Re-installed my UCAs to keep everything relatively lined up; it was probably inhibiting me BIG TIME having them removed as the impact transfer was probably being lost or greatly reduced this way.
+ Supported the LCA with a jack; gave it a few pumps to bring it up a few inches.
+ Supported the hub assembly/brake rotor with a separate jack to keep pressure on it.
+ Laid on the garage floor on my right side for the passenger side; on my left side for the driver's side; holding my 4-lb. hammer with two hands, I made several direct hits on that curved protrusion on the lower part of the steering knuckle--just to the inside of the ball joint shaft.
I probably had over two hours of unsuccessful prying and hammering on that passenger side LBJ over the course of several days; it was incredibly frustrating up to this point! Lo-and-behold, it separated after just four whacks this way. And the driver's side, which had otherwise been untouched, came apart in three whacks this way.
In both cases, there's was no sudden drop when it separated, it just casually sunk down as if to say "Well-played... I guess you win."
The best advice I received was from a retired, seasoned mechanic from NY named Stephen who works at my local AutoZone. Super nice guy and he rocks a rad ‘stache, so you know he’s legit!
He was even willing to stop by my house and help me if it didn't work. I was there to buy a 2/3 jaw puller and he’s like “don’t get that, here’s what you do…” He said I need to arrange things so that I have clear access to that spot on the steering knuckle and then hit with my BFH using two hands like I really mean it.Here's what I did:
+ Turned front wheels to full lock on the side I was working on. So on passenger side, wheels were cranked all the way to the right. On driver's side, wheels were cranked all the way to the left. This rotated the steering knuckle into a better position with much more direct access.
+ Re-installed my UCAs to keep everything relatively lined up; it was probably inhibiting me BIG TIME having them removed as the impact transfer was probably being lost or greatly reduced this way.
+ Supported the LCA with a jack; gave it a few pumps to bring it up a few inches.
+ Supported the hub assembly/brake rotor with a separate jack to keep pressure on it.
+ Laid on the garage floor on my right side for the passenger side; on my left side for the driver's side; holding my 4-lb. hammer with two hands, I made several direct hits on that curved protrusion on the lower part of the steering knuckle--just to the inside of the ball joint shaft.
I probably had over two hours of unsuccessful prying and hammering on that passenger side LBJ over the course of several days; it was incredibly frustrating up to this point! Lo-and-behold, it separated after just four whacks this way. And the driver's side, which had otherwise been untouched, came apart in three whacks this way.
In both cases, there's was no sudden drop when it separated, it just casually sunk down as if to say "Well-played... I guess you win."
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2001LC
SILVER Star
BFH is most common method in all shops, as it is fast.
I hate, when BFH method used.
WHY!
Two things one which you'll not care about today on this service. "Damaged ball joints".
1) So very often a miss place blow damages ball joint. Puts hole in boot most often, and sometimes damaging ball joint with a blow. Upper ball joint is the one that just one blow, and they get damage 99% of time. In fact only reason I found uppers bad, is miss guided blow. I've replace many ball joints with hammer hits. Some shop replace the boots not charging or tell client. They get ball joint job next service $$$. If TRE boot takes hit and get a hole, new boots not sold by Toyota only TRE!
2) Very often the blows will warp the knuckle, at surface boot seal too. Just like I see in your pictures. The boot needs to lye flat on knuckle surface. If it does not, it is a point for water, dust and muck to easily enter. This greatly reduces life of ball joint.
I spent a great deal of time recondition knuckles. Which part of that time, is pounding and flat filing the curl up metal warping seal area of boot. I'm fixing yet another rig today, so badly service, it was unsafe to drive. By these same BFH specialist. Which by way, they damged the ball joint on it also. This one, the wheel hubs where falling off. Locally Toyota Lexus specialist 20 bay shop, pound off knuckles to replace FDS. This one sat for 1 1/2 yrs before coming to me, to correct there mess ups. I get more coming to me, to correct this stuff, than you can imagine.
Hit to ball joint (yellow circle) If boot was on, it now be damaged. This ball joint your replacing so no big deal. But this ball joint may not be damage. If was upper it would for sure be damaged, as they designed differently.
Knuckle now curled up and seal area for boot, likely compromised. You can fix this.
You can clean and look precisely where seal seats/seals, once knuckle off. You'll see a impression, kind of a stain from boot. If warp/curl on nut side, we don't care. But if warp/curl crosses boot seal stain, well I do care. But that's me! Do no harm as the say.
Today I found a metal in bearings, and hers it BFH hammer boot. Look deep and you can see hit on ball joint itself. HATE THIS S&*T!
I hate, when BFH method used.
WHY!
Two things one which you'll not care about today on this service. "Damaged ball joints".
1) So very often a miss place blow damages ball joint. Puts hole in boot most often, and sometimes damaging ball joint with a blow. Upper ball joint is the one that just one blow, and they get damage 99% of time. In fact only reason I found uppers bad, is miss guided blow. I've replace many ball joints with hammer hits. Some shop replace the boots not charging or tell client. They get ball joint job next service $$$. If TRE boot takes hit and get a hole, new boots not sold by Toyota only TRE!
2) Very often the blows will warp the knuckle, at surface boot seal too. Just like I see in your pictures. The boot needs to lye flat on knuckle surface. If it does not, it is a point for water, dust and muck to easily enter. This greatly reduces life of ball joint.
I spent a great deal of time recondition knuckles. Which part of that time, is pounding and flat filing the curl up metal warping seal area of boot. I'm fixing yet another rig today, so badly service, it was unsafe to drive. By these same BFH specialist. Which by way, they damged the ball joint on it also. This one, the wheel hubs where falling off. Locally Toyota Lexus specialist 20 bay shop, pound off knuckles to replace FDS. This one sat for 1 1/2 yrs before coming to me, to correct there mess ups. I get more coming to me, to correct this stuff, than you can imagine.
Hit to ball joint (yellow circle) If boot was on, it now be damaged. This ball joint your replacing so no big deal. But this ball joint may not be damage. If was upper it would for sure be damaged, as they designed differently.
Knuckle now curled up and seal area for boot, likely compromised. You can fix this.
You can clean and look precisely where seal seats/seals, once knuckle off. You'll see a impression, kind of a stain from boot. If warp/curl on nut side, we don't care. But if warp/curl crosses boot seal stain, well I do care. But that's me! Do no harm as the say.
Today I found a metal in bearings, and hers it BFH hammer boot. Look deep and you can see hit on ball joint itself. HATE THIS S&*T!
Appreciate your perspective! Thanks for taking the time to share this including the pics. Curious what tried and true method works that doesn’t involve a BFH.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
BFH struck again, upper nailed. Their goes another day.
Here's the wheel bearing, form same shop/service. See that piece of metal wire like sticking out. I got it out of bearing and found it to be ~5 " long.
Here's the wheel bearing, form same shop/service. See that piece of metal wire like sticking out. I got it out of bearing and found it to be ~5 " long.
Then what method works for getting a large, super stuck ball joint loose?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Ball joint puller. Which many types have been posted in this threads 7 pages. A few that may even work without removing brake dust shield.
A few time, while puller on they do need a smack, to shock loose. But that's not the same as standing under and beating to death.
There is a video here somewhere. Of a well known shop in mud, who post many helpful videos. In it you'll see the guy beating on a lower ball joint. Than he cuts video not showing it's popping off. He later stated, it was a bear. Wonder WHY he cut video! DUH!
A few time, while puller on they do need a smack, to shock loose. But that's not the same as standing under and beating to death.
There is a video here somewhere. Of a well known shop in mud, who post many helpful videos. In it you'll see the guy beating on a lower ball joint. Than he cuts video not showing it's popping off. He later stated, it was a bear. Wonder WHY he cut video! DUH!
2001LC
SILVER Star
BTW: Parts store lend out these pullers free. BFH you have to buy! 
Hey, for the record, I tried their rental ball joint puller (the silver one that looks like a shoe horn or duck bill) and it didn’t work. I was looking to buy or rent a jaw puller and was steered away from that.BTW: Parts store lend out these pullers free. BFH you have to buy!
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Think how many more parts a parts store would sell if they lent out BFH's!!!BTW: Parts store lend out these pullers free. BFH you have to buy!
I've been getting along with one that I rented at O'Reilly a few years ago. It sells for $19 so I just kept it.BTW: Parts store lend out these pullers free. BFH you have to buy!
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2001LC
SILVER Star
I've been using one almost identical. The one I have has round top for BFH. Bad part about that is: I'm limited to open end wrench. I'd prefer one a could get a socket onto. Then I could use my 3/4" breaker bar "The Boy Boy".
Any luck finding a washer? About to take this on.
2001LC
SILVER Star
"Any luck finding a washer? About to take this on."
Haven't looked. Not only such a same difference. But 9 out of 10 times, I do both side at same time. Typically if one side bad, other is too or not far behind.
Haven't looked. Not only such a same difference. But 9 out of 10 times, I do both side at same time. Typically if one side bad, other is too or not far behind.
With that 2mm gap, has anyone seen the ball joint shift downward? Or is the friction fit more than enough to hold it in place?
This is what I use also. I'm not a fan of the BFH method.
Use a GOOD quality separator and a pickle fork. Use the separator to apply pressure, then insert the pickle fork between the joint and separator and hit that. I've never had it fail and you won't have tools go flying across your work area or damage vehicle components.
