2001LC
SILVER Star
You've answered yourself. Cotter pin locks castle nuts, and best too bent one cotter pin into crown of nut and one down (as you've done). Grease is fine. helps inhibit rust.
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Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of that step. Based on my wording from 2018 (below), what I think I did was to clamp between these two points in photo below with the driving end at the bottom.I’m stuck. Can’t separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
@98100Crusher cam you elaborate on your C-clamp method? I bought a 6” one hoping your technique will save me from cutting the LBJ shaft as a last resort. I’m not understanding how you applied the C-clamp though.
Appreciate your perspective! Thanks for taking the time to share this including the pics. Curious what tried and true method works that doesn’t involve a BFH.BFH is most common method in all shops, as it is fast.
I hate, when BFH method used.
WHY!
Two things one which you'll not care about today on this service. "Damaged ball joints".
1) So very often a miss place blow damages ball joint. Puts hole in boot most often, and sometimes damaging ball joint with a blow. Upper ball joint is the one that just one blow, and they get damage 99% of time. In fact only reason I found uppers bad, is miss guided blow. I've replace many ball joints with hammer hits. Some shop replace the boots not charging or tell client. They get ball joint job next service $$$. If TRE boot takes hit and get a hole, new boots not sold by Toyota only TRE!
2) Very often the blows will warp the knuckle, at surface boot seal too. Just like I see in your pictures. The boot needs to lye flat on knuckle surface. If it does not, it is a point for water, dust and muck to easily enter. This greatly reduces life of ball joint.
I spent a great deal of time recondition knuckles. Which part of that time, is pounding and flat filing the curl up metal warping seal area of boot. I'm fixing yet another rig today, so badly service, it was unsafe to drive. By these same BFH specialist. Which by way, they damged the ball joint on it also. This one, the wheel hubs where falling off. Locally Toyota Lexus specialist 20 bay shop, pound off knuckles to replace FDS. This one sat for 1 1/2 yrs before coming to me, to correct there mess ups. I get more coming to me, to correct this stuff, than you can imagine.
Hit to ball joint (yellow circle) If boot was on, it now be damaged. This ball joint your replacing so no big deal. But this ball joint may not be damage. If was upper it would for sure be damaged, as they designed differently.
Knuckle now curled up and seal area for boot, likely compromised. You can fix this.
You can clean and look precisely where seal seats/seals, once knuckle off. You'll see a impression, kind of a stain from boot. If warp/curl on nut side, we don't care. But if warp/curl crosses boot seal stain, well I do care. But that's me! Do no harm as the say.
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Today I found a metal in bearings, and hers it BFH hammer boot. Look deep and you can see hit on ball joint itself. HATE THIS S&*T!
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Hey, for the record, I tried their rental ball joint puller (the silver one that looks like a shoe horn or duck bill) and it didn’t work. I was looking to buy or rent a jaw puller and was steered away from that.BTW: Parts store lend out these pullers free. BFH you have to buy!![]()
Think how many more parts a parts store would sell if they lent out BFH's!!!BTW: Parts store lend out these pullers free. BFH you have to buy!![]()
I've been getting along with one that I rented at O'Reilly a few years ago. It sells for $19 so I just kept it.BTW: Parts store lend out these pullers free. BFH you have to buy!![]()
It would be nice to find a SS washer ~2mm thick, and place on them before pressing in.
I've been getting along with one that I rented at O'Reilly a few years ago. It sells for $19 so I just kept it.
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