Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

With that 2mm gap, has anyone seen the ball joint shift downward? Or is the friction fit more than enough to hold it in place?

Ball joint presses upward into LCA, and LCA presses downward (T-bar pressure) into it. So no issues whatsoever with gap between snap ring and LCA. Snap rig is simple a safety, we could go without. Unless you ball joint fits loose. But in that event (loose), you've either some under sized ball joint or in need of new LCA.

Some think they've pressed ball joint in to far. Wrong! We should or must, press in as until it stops.

 

[oakback]

Ball joint presses upward into LCA, and LCA presses downward (T-bar pressure) into it. So no issues whatsoever with gap between snap ring and LCA. Snap rig is simple a safety, we could go without. Unless you ball joint fits loose. But in that event (loose), you've either some under sized ball joint or in need of new LCA.

Some think they've pressed ball joint in to far. Wrong! We should or must, press in as until it stops.

Thanks! Mine pressed in fully, not loose at all, and looks just like the pic. I won't worry about it.

 

[2001LC]

This is what I use also. I'm not a fan of the BFH method.

Use a GOOD quality separator and a pickle fork. Use the separator to apply pressure, then insert the pickle fork between the joint and separator and hit that. I've never had it fail and you won't have tools go flying across your work area or damage vehicle components.

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You've always the best puller, clamps and such. You also seem to have more knowledge of types and use of anyone, amazingly so.

Personally I don't own or use pickle forks. Just out of concern I'd damage boot or ball joint. Pullers and a few well place taps if needed, have always worked for me. Which I've a 3lb forged brass hammer for tapping.

I did just purchased a new puller that is a bad ass. Which I can put my 3/4 breaker bar w/27mm socket onto it. (need a 3/4 " dr 27mm now)
It will pull lower BJ with wheel hub on. Sweet! But only my old little puller, will pull upper ball joint

Note: Cup press plate, between puller and ball joint stud/nut. It's helps center the puller, by use of the nut. It does NOT press on nut. Nut is thread down, so stud protrudes out of nut just a tad. Cup plate presses on end of stud. We DO NOT want to press on nut, as it can damage threads. Cup, helps spread force evenly and squarly, which is key.

I really "liked" it's smaller brother. But with the smaller puller, none of the OTC cup guild press plate(s) will not fit. Since I always use a cups, it useless to me.

The ball joint, I have the most difficult with. When they're really tight/stuck. Is always the TRE. For some reason that one can be a real bear. My new larger puller used with 3/4" dr breaker bar, handles TRE easily. But I can't use it on TRE, with wheel hub on. Bummer!

@flintknapper If you know of any puller, I can use on TRE with wheel hub on. I'd love to hear about it? It needs to be strong!

The ideal one, would be one puller that gets all 3 ball joints off knuckle with wheel hub on, accepts a socket and is strong enough to take the force a 3/4 breaker bar can exert. And does not damage BJ, boot or brake dust shield.

 

[Patassa]

What's the consensus on the Napa lower ball joint, good enough? I can get one locally by Saturday which is appealing.

 

[Blindado]

What's the consensus on the Napa lower ball joint, good enough? I can get one locally by Saturday which is appealing.

Take a look at it in store and if it doesn't say 555 on it don't bother. Unless replacing ball joints is your hobby. Why waste time with something that won't last? 555's are the same price.

They're not painted though, bare metal. So I hit them with brake cleaner and sprayed a few coats of rubberized undercoating from the auto parts store. Perfectly matched the rest of the undercarriage.

I did my lowers in place with O'Reilly's free loaner. Went just fine on the lowers. For the uppers I had to remove the upper control arm because the press wouldn't fit otherwise. Reinstalled it and lined it up with the notches, per FSM. Took it to Toyota for an alignment and everything was dead on.

Good luck!

 

[2001LC]

What's the consensus on the Napa lower ball joint, good enough? I can get one locally by Saturday which is appealing.

I get 555's from NAPA. I always need to call ahead a few hours, for them to get in. Picked-up a set yesterday.

 

[Slickspawn]

I bought this SST ball joint separator as mentioned in the FSM. I added it on to my last Impex order for $45. It works great for upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends so far! 09628-62011

 

[yj668]

I bought this SST ball joint separator as mentioned in the FSM. I added it on to my last Impex order for $45. It works great for upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends so far! 09628-62011


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Are those adjustable / variable length claws on the SST?

 

[Slickspawn]

No just adjustable width. The side screws make the adjustment. @2001LC OTC tool is probably better with the different mechanism to hold the legs at a fixed width.

 

[2001LC]

I bought this SST ball joint separator as mentioned in the FSM. I added it on to my last Impex order for $45. It works great for upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends so far! 09628-62011


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Did this work on TRE with brake dust shield on?

 

[Slickspawn]

Did this work on TRE with brake dust shield on?

Yes. Perfect fit between the dust shield and TRE.

 

[2001LC]

The OTC 7310A is a brute and will do LBJ, brake dust shield on. It will do TRE, but dust shield must be removed. It will not do the UBJ.

With dust shield off, I do like the OTC for TRE. As its the joints that sometime the hardest to pop. With the OTC puller I can use my 3/4" breaker bar, and easily put a great deal of force to the joint.

The Toyota 09628-62011 getting all 3 with brake dust shield on. It's going in my cart today

 

[tjb]

The Toyota 09628-62011 getting all 3 with brake dust shield on. It's going in my cart today

$46 + shipping from Japan from Impex.

 

[John Young]

Just to try to add something to the conversation (I am new to Prados), I used ToyoDIY to find the current part numbers for the lower ball joints for a 98 with the 5KV engine and this is what I got:

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
43330-39585​	Suspension Ball Joint (Right, Front, Lower)​	$122.08​	1​	$122.08​
90080-10066​	Suspension Ball Joint Bolt​	$1.82​	8​	$14.56​
43340-39465​	Suspension Ball Joint (Left, Front, Lower)​	$122.08​	1​	$122.08​

They certainly look substantial and well-engineered.

I've looked through this thread and others on Mud and I am not entirely clear where they go in from the diagram. Hope I did. not goof up. Would not be the first time. Please be kind if I did.

I have not actually seen the new Prado in. person and bought these parts because I assumed that the US parts would be a better choice given the litigious nature of the US market.

 

[Dref]

The OTC 7310A is a brute and will do LBJ, brake dust shield on. It will do TRE, but dust shield must be removed. It will not do the UBJ.

With dust shield off, I do like the OTC for TRE. As its the joints that sometime the hardest to pop. With the OTC puller I can use my 3/4" breaker bar, and easily put a great deal of force to the joint.

The Toyota 09628-62011 getting all 3 with brake dust shield on. It's going in my cart today

Thanks for all the great info. I am going to attempt to replace both of my LBJs. I have never did this before so I am trying to make it as minimally invasive as possible.

So with the Toyota 09268-62011 puller I will be able to pull out the LBJ without having to remove the hub? Seems so much easier. And no difficulties pressing in the new LBJ?

@2001LC Thanks for all your help/content now and in many past repairs/installs I have done in the past.

 

[gatormark91]

Deleted

 

[DuckLN]

If you like doing something like lower ball joints twice, get victimized by 555s. Ball joints aren’t parts that i’ll ever skimp on again.

 

[dbleon]

If you like doing something like lower ball joints twice, get victimized by 555s. Ball joints aren’t parts that i’ll ever skimp on again.

Bad experience?
I’m thinking staying OEM off n the front end.. stuff lasted 250k so it not that huge if an investment to do the whole arm

 

[2001LC]

Yes. Perfect fit between the dust shield and TRE.

Well, the OEM SST puller 09628-62011, it not fitting TRE for me. Perhaps you can post a picture of in use on TRE?

Seems to me: The arms need to be longer to get bracket protion of puller above (to clear) dust shield. Currently the bracket protion of puller is pressed up against brake dust shield. So much so, I can not get good alignment with TRE stud nor full grip with arms, with wheel hub on. In cases where TRE really stuck on, it's not going to be pretty unless wheel hub and brake dust shield removed.

It's a good puller, for LBJ with brake dust shield/wheel hub on or off. It's no better for UBJ, than the common small fixed pullers.

I am able to use a press plate cup with it. Which I like, for centering and protecting threads of studs.

I'll keep looking.

 

[DuckLN]

Bad experience?
I’m thinking staying OEM off n the front end.. stuff lasted 250k so it not that huge if an investment to do the whole arm

Life is all about experience- Some good some not so good!

My experience with 555 ball joints was bad -one developed a torn boot after about 1 year or about 10k miles and i have oem sized tires and don’t offroad. My mechanic said to get moog or napa and said stay away from 555 but you know sometimes its the good advice you just can’t take.

I bot a napa replacement.