Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

@2001LC i am so embarrassed. Looking through my notes and pictures I had a major brain fart. No idea how but I read TRE and my brain was just stuck thinking lower ball joint. I did in fact have to remove the dust shield for TRE to get the proper angle. I owe you $45, let me know where to send PayPal!
 
I went out and bought the tool also haha but it looks like it will be very useful in the future. And I got it from Impex for $46. By far the cheapest price for that OEM tool.
 
One thing we know for sure. OME is best! which also gets us #1 LCA bushing.

I do like products made in Japan, like the 555. USA made are usually just as good if not better. If moogs are USA made and work as well as 555, I'll use them also.
I can say, I do not like 555 TRE, which I see those fail often.

555 LBJ:

I used BJ puller again yesterday, dust shield off. To pull knuckle and replace a 555 LH LBJ with hole in boot. The other 555 LBJ on RH, was fine. Both installed 60K miles ago on a heavy built, lifted, wheel spacers, over sized tires used off road, in mud and water crossing very frequently. The hole was in frontal area, and likely a stick tore through boot.

But I've no way to know for sure, if hole due stick or to fold in boot. Which boot was folded inward, from center of vehicle side. Hole was at forward point of boot/vehicle and not at pinch of fold. So very likely a stick damaged boot. I do know I removed the boots during install of the 555 BJ, and the RH 555 LBJ was still good after 60K miles.

Everyone I've talked to that removed boots during install is happy w/555. But those that did not remove boot of 555, are not happy!

One thing I notice/mentioned, the bad boot was folded inward from the side nearest center of rig. Occasionally I see these 555 boots folded inward, like this. Could those develop hole at pinch, perhaps. But this hole was not at a point where that seem the case. I will be watching these closely
 
Not sure if this will help anyone or not but I was doing upper and lower ball joints and having a horrible time trying to figure out a way to get the LBJ pressed back in using the part store crap ball joint press kit. The piece that fit over the ball joint was a little to big and once I got something setup with the kit parts above and below the ball joint the C clamp wouldn't fit over all of it. Total sh!t show.


The week prior I did wheel bearings and still had parts/tools out. I ended up using the Cruiser Outfitters 54mm hub socket, my old front wheel bearing race and a race driver to press the lower ball joint in. Worked awesome. I originally tried using a piece of 2 1/8" id exhaust tubing as mentioned by a member on her in another thread but it buckled and didnt work for me. @cruiseroutfit maybe you can mark the 54mm socket as a LBJ press now too lol


IMG_9115.JPG
IMG_9116.JPG
IMG_9113.JPG
IMG_9114.JPG
 
Last edited:
Not sure if this will help anyone or not but I was doing upper and lower ball joints and having a horrible time trying to figure out a way to get the LBJ pressed back in using the part store crap ball joint press kit. The piece that fit over the ball joint was a little to big and once I got something setup with the kit parts above and below the ball joint the C clamp wouldn't fit over all of it. Total sh!t show.


The week prior I did wheel bearings and still had parts/tools out. I ended up using the Cruiser Outfitters 54mm hub socket, my old front wheel bearing race and a race driver to press the lower ball joint in. Worked awesome. I originally tried using a piece of 2 1/8" id exhaust tubing as mentioned by a member on her in another thread but it buckled and didnt work for me. @cruiseroutfit maybe you can mark the 54mm socket as a LBJ press now too lol


View attachment 3206099View attachment 3206100View attachment 3206102View attachment 3206103
This kit from AutoZone had everything you'll need.

 
Last edited:
This kit from O'Reilly's had everything you'll need.

I think you mean Autozone per that post. I got the O'Reillys one and it didnt work at all. I still have the other side to do, I may run to Autozone and check that other kit out
 
I think you mean Autozone per that post. I got the O'Reillys one and it didnt work at all. I still have the other side to do, I may run to Autozone and check that other kit out
You are correct, I'll edit!
 
The big mistake shops & DIY often make. Is not removing the boot.

In the boot of 555's we find a small amount of grease. We take the grease from the boot and pack into and around the ball. We also need boot off, so the cup fits sung on bottom of ball joint where boot was.

Those removing boots, are not have issues with the 555. Those not removing boots, are having failures.
 
BTW: I finally have a puller (JTC 1258, I modified) for TRE, with brake dust shield/wheel hub on.
TRE JTC (3).JPEG


TRE JTC (2).JPEG

I did needed to modify by grinding ID, just a little larger.
Fit's like a hand-in-a-glove. Sweet!
IMG_0806.JPEG


IMG_1431.JPEG

Works on lower also:
IMG_1488.JPEG


Next I need a jack fitted to carry a loaded knuckle. Freaking heavy, to mount loaded!
 
So is there some secrete I am missing when installing the dust cover back on the drive flange to cover the end of the axle? I literally cannot get the damn thing to go on straight. Extremely frustrated.... New hub flange and new dust cover
 
The new grease cap (dust cover), are very hard to get on. First tick grease its lip. Second, keep it square (straight). Stop and gently pry off, if gets cockeyed and start over.

I use a dead blow hammer. A piece of oak, can be used as cushion, if you only have a steel hammer.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom