Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Been wondering whether that type of tool would work on our rigs - thanks for posting! Nice to have another option.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Either of the options above make this project easy enough for the diy'er. No need to pay a shop if you have the time and enjoy the work...

I just wanted to give another option for those that might be put off by the need for a press.

I still want a press... timing just wasn't right for me.

Would the this also work for the upper ball joint if you removed the upper control arm first? I just don't have a press and don't want to spend $700 on OEM or Total Chaos UCAs.
 
It may work with the control arm in place but what upper ball joint will you use to replace it?
 
Last edited:
Would the this also work for the upper ball joint if you removed the upper control arm first? I just don't have a press and don't want to spend $700 on OEM or Total Chaos UCAs.

This is a good question, but I don't think I've seen anyone source replacement ball joints for the uppers.
 
I have a knocking sound going over small bumps coming from the front suspension. I have checked everything but I am quickly starting to think it's a ball joint. Is there a way to check without removing everything?
 
Wheel/tire supported off the ground...hands at 6 & 12...push-pull to detect play. Put some muscle into it or get a lever under the tire to assist.

Same but 3 & 6 for steering rack, rack bushings, tierod ends, etc.

If you're running "uni-ball" UCA that would be the first place to check...well assuming you've checked shock mount bolts, anti-sway bar connections/bushings for tightness/condition.
 
Double check torque specs on all suspension components. For example, I was getting a noise, I checked my sway bar links today and the torque specs were all off.

As far as play in the LBJ should be fairly obvious. But put some *** into it.
 
Anyone have a source for a quality remove/install kit?
 
Any of them will do. When I did the lower, I just borrowed a set from my local kragen.
 
Hope it fits, it does say non 4wd vehicles, so size could be a prob.
 
Very good thread! I am wondering though... ball joint separator @ 100.. vs 20 Ton press @ 169... The press can be used for a multitude of other things, however removal of the entire arm and disconnection of the TB is necessary... hmm... Now when removing the knuckle from the LCA, is there any trick? ie... can a pickle fork be used?
 
Very good thread! I am wondering though... ball joint separator @ 100.. vs 20 Ton press @ 169... The press can be used for a multitude of other things, however removal of the entire arm and disconnection of the TB is necessary... hmm... Now when removing the knuckle from the LCA, is there any trick? ie... can a pickle fork be used?

[STRIKE]I haven't done it yet but a BFH seems to be the trick around here. Also OTC sells a $30 separator that'd work too.[/STRIKE]

I had to use a pickle fork

I ordered this one today: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089QSBU8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A13DT91O985292

It looks similar but slightly smaller than the one linked above for $70 less. I'll report back.

This tool works for upper and lower ball joints but you'll need a 2" pipe coupler to use as a cup. The medium sized cup it come with is slightly too big to press in the new joint. I've used this tool to press out both the upper and lower ball joints and press in new ball joints. To replace the upper ball joints, you have to remove the control arm. It's 3 bolts and not difficult if you mark your cam adjustments before hand.
 
Last edited:
Fantastic thread, helped me out today on a rush job!

I had a last minute lower ball joint need on my 100 today. I'm prepping for a big trip and sure enough as I'm driving around this last week I was getting a metallic 'squeak' when turning or with small suspension movements. We tried to grease the joints with a needle attachment as a temp fix but it needed to come out and the stars aligned today with parts in hand and space in the shop between customer jobs. All in all we replaced a the passenger side lower ball joint (555), upper ball joint boot (OEM) and the sway bar link with Old Man Emu upper bushings. Total time was about 3 hours with two guys bouncing around, part of that was waiting for Toyota to deliver the sway link (we will be stocking those now ;)). We did not remove the arm, rather removed the steering arm, brake caliper, ABS wiring, spindle at the UBJ & LBJ and CV at the hub. Next up is the drivers side but it will have to wait for more time, sadly I think we could have done the drivers side in just an extra hour or two as everything was out and we had our heads wrapped around the project.
 
I've seen some upper ball joints on eBay but quality is unknown...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-FRONT-Upp...&fits=Model:LX470&hash=item4a9b18b5c4&vxp=mtr

First off, I want to say in my 1st post thanks so much for this forum and this post in particular. I have been browsing your forums for several years while working on my 99LC (366K & counting...), but never felt the need to offer any feedback until now.

3 years ago I went looking for upper ball joints and found, as many of you have, that they were NOT available for our vehicle: not Toyota, not any local parts houses, not Rockauto or anywhere else I looked. Finally I gave up and bought some UCAs from Rockauto. Fast forward 3 years: those control arms are shot; bushings & ball joint gone, so here I am doing the same job only 3 years later. I found this thread on LCA repair (I'm doing those as well) and was stunned to find this ebay link to UCA BJs. BTW, that link doesn't return any useful results as of today, but the following one does:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALL-JOINT-FRONT-UPPER-ARM-TOYOTA-LAND-CRUISER-100-1998-2007-OEM-48630-60020-/261317556818?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999|Model%3ALand+Cruiser&hash=item3cd7bd7a52&vxp=mtr

Fortunately, I had followed my "never throw anything away" rule and was able to locate those original OEM UCAs from 3 years ago, pressed out the joints and replaced them with the above for $30/side!! We'll see what kind of mileage they give me.

Thanx again for all the good info on the forum...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom