Looking to purchase first FZJ80

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yOu dOnT nEeD a LaNd CrUisEr.

I will drive my 80 on 37's to get groceries today and smile the whole way there.
I’d be smiling too with the tunes cranked! Lol! There is no right or wrong just opinions.
 
Howdy! I'm looking to purchase my first FZJ80 but am admittedly a noob and don't really know my way around an engine. After months of searching and divining into forums, manuals and videos I think I've found one. However there's nothing like experience to tell you what to look out for. Can anyone please share some things they wish they knew prior to purchasing their first? I'm referencing this Noob guid 80 Series Newbie Guide - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/tech-zone/80-series-newbie-guide/ but would love to hear others experiences. Thank you!
I have a 1997 80 series for sale.
 
"Endless replies from people who own 80s: "No." "

Should read : No, unless you love these vehicles and like to work on them yourself (or are very wealthy and can afford to pay someone else to do it for you.

@Argonaut54

Example: currently I'm in the middle of the rear axle service as preventive maintenance on my 97 FZJ80. Didn't "need" to do the work but after 25 years I figured it was time. I could've just cleaned and repacked the original bearings, replaced the hub and axle seals, and slapped it back togther with a set of new rear brake pads.

But as expected found the typical wear/age issues: original calipers, worn pads, worn brake rotors, hardened/cracking original brake hoses, ABS sensors completely covered in magnetic dust, leaking seals, etc,etc,etc. IME when old calipers have been fully extended (due to completely worn pads) they're more likely to get stuck after pushing them back and just replacing the pads. So decided to replace/service/clean everything (rotors, calipers, hoses, seals, bearings, hardware), including (surface) rust treatment/painting of the axle housing, particularly the multiple brackets attached to it to slow down what's now mild rust from getting worse (typical MUD LC-OCD).

So did it need all this work?? Probably not, it might have gone another 100,000-200,000 miles before needing any of it other than just repacking the bearings and new seals. However, once everything is done that goes from "might have gone---" to "will reliably go" another 200,000+ miles before it needs the rear axle serviced again.

Point is, this 80 won't get buttoned back up for at least another week or two between waiting on parts, life, work, weather, etc,etc. So definitely you need a second vehicle while your 80 is up on jack stands (or at a shop).


 
Howdy! I'm looking to purchase my first FZJ80 but am admittedly a noob and don't really know my way around an engine. After months of searching and divining into forums, manuals and videos I think I've found one...
Have a link to the one you're looking at?
IMO, an 80 is not a practical vehicle to purchase even if you can find one for a good price that's in decent shape. Such was the case for me, but I bought it anyway.
 
To me the fact that responses on "should I buy" are so realistic and conservative is just another proof of how experienced and knowledgeable many of the forums members, and as a result this community as a whole, is.
Couldn't agree more. This forum, while full of differing opinions, has been a wealth of experience. This is what I was asking for, and cannot thank the forum enough. The questions was never so much "should I," but always "what is it like to.." and that question has been clearly answered in many ways.
 
I do exactly what you are talking about.

I travel all over the country driving my 80 some of the time, driving rentals some of the time.


After my trip last week, I need new seats. My back and ass hurt so much from two 12 hour drives from KC to San Antonio and back, than I was having trouble sleeping and walking.

Yeah, buy something newer and more comfortable unless you REALLY like older stuff.
My back-up vehicle to this truck is a 1959 Studebaker, so that tells you where my head is anyway (most will say up my ass).

You will not regret a set of Scheel Mann seats, best $ you can spend on an 80 that you spend significant time in!

From a comfort perspective it is better than anything else I have driven!

Studebaker!

Nice, I still have the 63’ Avanti R2 my dad purchased in 68’, nothing like 150 MPH on bias red lines when I was a kid!!’
 
You will not regret a set of Scheel Mann seats, best $ you can spend on an 80 that you spend significant time in!

From a comfort perspective it is better than anything else I have driven!

Studebaker!

Nice, I still have the 63’ Avanti R2 my dad purchased in 68’, nothing like 150 MPH on bias red lines when I was a kid!!’
I have a hard time choking on the Scheel-Mann price.

I will find a salvage yard seat and fab brackets before I'll cough up $2K for one seat.

My Stude is a 59 Lark VIII 2DHTP with the 259 and AT. It was my first car that I bought in 1981. It had 28K miles when I bought it and now has 105K. I drive it all the time. It's a driver, not a show car, but we took it on the Hot Rod Power Tour in 2016 and 2017. All stock and Studebaker, with a few newer parts.
 
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I bought a pretty rough 97 a year ago again my better judgement after posting a similar thread to this one. I did have to put about $2-3k in maintenance over the next 6 months or so (including tires), but honestly IMO I think a lot of the age stuff can be overstated here. Sure, the rubber seals and bushings are getting old, but all I had to do was top it up with oil and coolant every so often and tolerate the sloppy steering. I even drove it with a bad brake booster for a while; I just had to push harder on the pedal, but it stopped just fine. The 100 series are probably more reliable vehicles overall, but they arguably sacrificed some durability and don't "limp" as well, if that makes sense.

As long as the engine has decent compression and the cooling system holds pressure, there's not that many things that'll leave you stranded, apart from a few random items that are easy to address (starter contacts, fusible link, etc.). Too bad they're pretty much all auto so you can't do a push start in a pinch.

In fact the biggest annoyance with mine wasn't costly breakdowns but a sulfury odor when I opened a window (I think it was oil getting into the cats, or possibly gear oil getting flung around somewhere underneath).

I think a good portion of the issues arising with these are a result of them sitting for weeks on end, then people expect to go to the ends of the earth in them. Consistent use and even a modicum of maintenance goes a long way in these trucks. That being said, I did end up swapping for a 96 Tacoma (with some off-road goodies thrown in on top), largely for lower running costs while still retaining decent rough-road capability and durability.

I would like to get back into an 80 series eventually though, hopefully in better cosmetic shape.
 
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Like everyone else stated, you have to have the passion to own an 80 series. I bought the best example I could afford and I still put in over $2000 in OEM parts to bring up the baselining. The previous owner had shop bills of over $5000 spent including labor and new tires.
I have enjoyed the process of getting this older cruiser to the best it can be reasonably. I've got my '94 running great now so I need a new project. The next one will be a 40 series as the 80 is almost too nice for my tastes and I don't want to beat it up off road.
 
I love my 80 but no way I would DD it. Having been in construction for over 40 years I can say for sure just get a pickup.
I really like my first gen tundra great DD and work truck.
Good clean used is what I prefer, the few times that I bought new I felt sick to my stomach for weeks.
 
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I have a hard time choking on the Scheel-Mann price.

I will find a salvage yard seat and fab brackets before I'll cough up $2K for one seat.

My Stude is a 59 Lark VIII 2DHTP with the 259 and AT. It was my first car that I bought in 1981. It had 28K miles when I bought it and now has 105K. I drive it all the time. It's a driver, not a show car, but we took it on the Hot Rod Power Tour in 2016 and 2017. All stock and Studebaker, with a few newer parts.
I'm really happy with my Sheel-Manns, but I'm terrible at keeping to a budget. To each their own.
 
Mine (owned for 29 years so far) was a daily for the first 17 years. It has been a sometime summer and bad weather ride for the last 12 years.

I haven't looked back once.
 
Don't buy a rust one, and if you do just use a T fitting instead of this damn thing when you do your brakes.

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