Trying a simple setup on my LX since I’m refreshing the AHC (new globes/shocks). Can I just run the 10mm OEM spacer with stock front bumpstops?
Long Travel AHC (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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- Thread starter
- #642
Absolutely. I ran this for a long time. A solid upgrade with just shy of 1" more total suspension travel in front and more overall flexiness especially in AHC H.
Maybe you experts can help me. I've read through the entire thread but I'm still struggling to make a decision on what parts to get. I just finished a sensor adjustment, fluid flush, and alignment. I love the way the truck sits now but it doesn't drive well. It's bouncy is all get out even after the fluid flush.
Something tells me I have new accumulators in my future and while I was in there I wanted to try to use some of these modifications to make up for the sensor list. If I did a max lift, I believe that puts me at about 1 in of added height. Based on what I'm reading, that means I should be looking for somewhere around a 13 mm spacer. At this point in time, should I just be looking at getting the e&e off-road parts?
There isn't too terribly much extra weight in my machine. Just a Dometic fridge in the back and occasionally some luggage or kids. I'd like to have slightly better than normal performance off-road but most of what I'll be doing is difficult fire trails in the Appalachians. What I'm really after is getting the performance of the car back to stock while on road and keeping my height.
Something tells me I have new accumulators in my future and while I was in there I wanted to try to use some of these modifications to make up for the sensor list. If I did a max lift, I believe that puts me at about 1 in of added height. Based on what I'm reading, that means I should be looking for somewhere around a 13 mm spacer. At this point in time, should I just be looking at getting the e&e off-road parts?
There isn't too terribly much extra weight in my machine. Just a Dometic fridge in the back and occasionally some luggage or kids. I'd like to have slightly better than normal performance off-road but most of what I'll be doing is difficult fire trails in the Appalachians. What I'm really after is getting the performance of the car back to stock while on road and keeping my height.
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- Thread starter
- #644
The bouncy ride after sensor lift is a classic symptom of worn accumulators. You're right that accumulators should be in your future. It'll be the best money spent and you'll be surprised how great the ride is after.
E&E Off Road 13mm front spacer and rear shock spacer are the cheat codes to enabling long travel goodness. It brings a new level of slinkiness, downtravel, and articulation that's magic offroad. For the price, capability, and amplifying all the stock qualities with practically zero cons, this mod simply can't be beat.
And if you're so inclined and ready to turn it up another level, a 1" body lift can work wonders to lift up the front and rear bumpers for more approach and departure, gain visual height, while keeping the center of gravity low.
I really appreciate the fast response! I read this post before I ever bought the car, so a little bit of long travel was always on the radar.
I just want to make sure I'm getting this straight: if I get both of the E&E off-road parts ( the front top hat spacer and the rear shock space), then I should be good for both the long travel dialing in the spring preload? I don't need any spacers in the rear do I?
For a little bit of added context, the rear of my car will stay pretty light but occasionally the AHC light flashes whenever I break pretty hard which makes me think my front pressures are too high.
I did the NST 1.5” body lift first and will be adding E&E’s parts front and rear, and going to try to stuff 37’s with minimal trimming to start all without touching the ahc sensors. But we’ll see what happens. Finding the perfect wheel offset might be the challenge.
Chris
Chris
The sensor lift takes almost no time. What specifically is keeping you from wanting to do it?
I don't really want to go up to 37s ever. I did the OTT tune and found my slightly above 33s is great for power and 35 might be in the future.
I guess I'm just trying to find the perfect medium level for these upgrades.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Get ready to do a lot of cutting up front. And then get ready to enjoy how awesome 37s on these rigs are
If you add the EE rear strut spacers, you are definitely going to want a spring spacer in the rear.
I went with 50mm spacers on the rear spring because I’m also heavier and tow a trailer frequently.
A rear track bar relocation is also in my future. Being so unparallel is causing the rear end to bounce out on gravel. The geometry is importantly for up/down travel without left/ right travel.
I went with 50mm spacers on the rear spring because I’m also heavier and tow a trailer frequently.
A rear track bar relocation is also in my future. Being so unparallel is causing the rear end to bounce out on gravel. The geometry is importantly for up/down travel without left/ right travel.
What’s the right bump stop choice to go with rear spring spacers and E&E shock brackets to prevent bottoming out the read shock/ram?
- Thread starter
- #652
The long travel brackets themselves do not drive the need for rear spring spacers. It's really about the amount of lift relative to stock and that is governed by the sensor lift and/or height offset. So the minimum spring spacer should be that delta of stock ride height to new ride height. That said, AHC adapts rather well to more spring spacer (to a point). For example, I've lifted the rear 30mm. I have 45mm worth or rear spring spacer. I also have about 200lbs of added rear weight.
Maybe 1/4" worth of shimming might be good under the rear frame bump stops, jounce stops, or both. For the spring spacer, I actually have a 40mm coil spring spacer, but 5mm shim packer above the jounce stop and in between the frame. This effectively lowers the jounce stop 5mm. I also modded the frame bump stop with 1/4" aluminum stock.
As I'm driving harder these days, I added Durabumps all around which makes a nice difference in really hard Baja style running. AHC shocks in sport is also useful when running hard to keep things off the stops.
Maybe 1/4" worth of shimming might be good under the rear frame bump stops, jounce stops, or both. For the spring spacer, I actually have a 40mm coil spring spacer, but 5mm shim packer above the jounce stop and in between the frame. This effectively lowers the jounce stop 5mm. I also modded the frame bump stop with 1/4" aluminum stock.
As I'm driving harder these days, I added Durabumps all around which makes a nice difference in really hard Baja style running. AHC shocks in sport is also useful when running hard to keep things off the stops.
I have the Dr KDSS BOTCK kit on my shelf. Atlanta traffic almost killed me and the bumpy back road from Macon was worse. I ordered it as soon as I got back to the country.
So if I added 1" of height, now I need 1" of spacers? Does that mean that I will need to stack a tundra spacer with the EE off-road for a total of 23mm? What is the current best combination recommendations for the rear, will three Tundra spacers work?
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I've modified a lot of toyotas, a Jeep JKU, and for this build, I'd rather keep the stock driving qualities than to alter the dynamics of the stock suspension and make it rid worse than it does. The sensor lift is a peace of cake, for sure, but I'd rather add the E&E front and rear spacers to add some droop, slap some narrow high positive offset wheels on it, some bumpstops to make sure the shocks are bottoming out upon full compression and keep the stock ride quality as much as possible. What I haven't decided, though, is if I can do it very effectively without either Tundra a-arms up front or some aftermarket option without rubbing a lot of the frame or swaybar at lock to lock.
Chris
Chris
Yeah, not opposed to, but I think it can actually be done with minimal cutting if the right custom offset wheels are used and possible tundra a-arms, most likely.
Chris
I think the E&E 13mm front spacer and the E&E rear lower shock relocation bracket are getting conflated here.
FRONT: just get the E&E 13mm spacer, that's the only part needed for the front suspension. This is the simplest product that maximizes front suspension travel without needing to take apart the strut to install longer top hat studs. There are a few ways to get more front spacer height documented in this thread (up to 20mm has been reported to work with no problems), but they're more work to install and probably not necessary if you're just trying to sweeten up the ride and compensate for AHC sensor lift.
REAR: E&E lower shock relocation bracket, ~1"+ coil spring spacer, modify bump stops or buy Perry Parts "long travel" bump stops, consider longer rear brake lines (toytec sells a tundra rear brake line kit that fits).
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nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Here’s me early on in the cutting on RW, 1.25” spacer, tundra arms, but no body lift yet. I run billet OTRE though which require the spacer. I probably went a little aggressive but I didn’t rub going downhill
Thanks for the feedback...couple of questions if you don't care:
1) What's the wheel offset you're running with the 1.25" spacers?
2) What is a Billet OTRE exactly?
3) Wheel/tire combo?
Chris
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Glad to help someone fit 37s!
1) Rock Warriors are +50, but when I sent them off to convert to beadlocks I dropped down to a .75" bora spacer as it widens the wheel by about 1/2-3/4"
2) When switching to tundra arms I wasn't happy with the thread engagement of the stock tundra OTRE, so switched to these. If you call him, he will preset them to the correct distance for tundra arms!
3) I run 37" KM3s on OMF-converted RWs, and then 37" KO2s on regular RWs
Does Bones still run OMF? Sounds like we'd get along great lol. Curious...after converting to the Tundra A-arms, did the +50mm RW's fit with 37's without rubbing the upper control arm, or is that why you originally had to run 1.25" spacers? And, then if I understand you correctly, adding the OMF beadlocks added the extra width to the wheel, resulting in you being able to run a smaller spacer, I'm assuming to clear the upper a-arm again? Or was the spacers used to clear the tire from hitting the frame on the back or the swaybar up front and not the upper a-arm?
When you swapped to the Tundra setup, did you go factory parts or go aftermarket like Total Chaos, Camburg, or Dirt King?
Chris
