Long Travel AHC

[nwfl4runner]

Does Bones still run OMF? Sounds like we'd get along great lol. Curious...after converting to the Tundra A-arms, did the +50mm RW's fit with 37's without rubbing the upper control arm, or is that why you originally had to run 1.25" spacers? And, then if I understand you correctly, adding the OMF beadlocks added the extra width to the wheel, resulting in you being able to run a smaller spacer, I'm assuming to clear the upper a-arm again? Or was the spacers used to clear the tire from hitting the frame on the back or the swaybar up front and not the upper a-arm?

When you swapped to the Tundra setup, did you go factory parts or go aftermarket like Total Chaos, Camburg, or Dirt King?

Chris

Last time I checked he was still there! I had to run spacers to clear the UCA, but I only had 1.25” at the time. Since converting them, i can clear the UCA but there’s still the issue of the clearance needed for the tie rods I use. I found .75” to be a decent compromise- eventually im going to actually pull out a jack and fool with the steering to see if I could get away without a spacer at all.

Edited to add I run stock tundra LCA with the sway bar bucket cut and rewelded so the link is still in double sheer, and stock tundra UCA but I welded an AHC bracket onto it.

 

[Cmock13]

I think the E&E 13mm front spacer and the E&E rear lower shock relocation bracket are getting conflated here.

FRONT: just get the E&E 13mm spacer, that's the only part needed for the front suspension. This is the simplest product that maximizes front suspension travel without needing to take apart the strut to install longer top hat studs. There are a few ways to get more front spacer height documented in this thread (up to 20mm has been reported to work with no problems), but they're more work to install and probably not necessary if you're just trying to sweeten up the ride and compensate for AHC sensor lift.

REAR: E&E lower shock relocation bracket, ~1"+ coil spring spacer, modify bump stops or buy Perry Parts "long travel" bump stops, consider longer rear brake lines (toytec sells a tundra rear brake line kit that fits).

You'll have to forgive my ignorance. This is the first truck that I've ever spent time modifying. I'm not planning on doing any crazy off-roading, but I want to get my ride as smooth as possible while enjoying the higher height of the sensor lift. The BOTCK really helped the sway but the bouncing is killing me and I get in check AHC light when I break too hard.

Can I approach this in a piecewise manner?

Step 1(as soon as parts arrive): replace the AHC globes and add the 13 mm E and E spacer to the front.

Step 2 (later on): add a 25 mm spacer to the back.

Step 3 (maybe never): install the E&E drop bracket and possibly move the break lines.

Possibly skip: upgraded bump stops.

Remember, my off-roading consists of Appalachian forest service roads. I take my family to the mountains a few times a year and love exploring any trails I can find. Most places that I can go, a standard 4x4 can get to it easily, but I daily drive on clay and dirt roads. I really don't want to give up the sensor lift height because I love the look (definitely some bro in me). I'll be adding some Bora wheel spacers at some time too, although I don't think that matters here.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

You'll have to forgive my ignorance. This is the first truck that I've ever spent time modifying. I'm not planning on doing any crazy off-roading, but I want to get my ride as smooth as possible while enjoying the higher height of the sensor lift. The BOTCK really helped the sway but the bouncing is killing me and I get in check AHC light when I break too hard.

Can I approach this in a piecewise manner?

Step 1(as soon as parts arrive): replace the AHC globes and add the 13 mm E and E spacer to the front.

Step 2 (later on): add a 25 mm spacer to the back.

Step 3 (maybe never): install the E&E drop bracket and possibly move the break lines.

Possibly skip: upgraded bump stops.

Remember, my off-roading consists of Appalachian forest service roads. I take my family to the mountains a few times a year and love exploring any trails I can find. Most places that I can go, a standard 4x4 can get to it easily, but I daily drive on clay and dirt roads. I really don't want to give up the sensor lift height because I love the look (definitely some bro in me). I'll be adding some Bora wheel spacers at some time too, although I don't think that matters here.

You could definitely do things piecemeal. I would just hammer out 1/2/3 in a weekend over beers.

 

[turbo8]

You'll have to forgive my ignorance. This is the first truck that I've ever spent time modifying. I'm not planning on doing any crazy off-roading, but I want to get my ride as smooth as possible while enjoying the higher height of the sensor lift. The BOTCK really helped the sway but the bouncing is killing me and I get in check AHC light when I break too hard.

Can I approach this in a piecewise manner?

Step 1(as soon as parts arrive): replace the AHC globes and add the 13 mm E and E spacer to the front.

Step 2 (later on): add a 25 mm spacer to the back.

Step 3 (maybe never): install the E&E drop bracket and possibly move the break lines.

Possibly skip: upgraded bump stops.

Remember, my off-roading consists of Appalachian forest service roads. I take my family to the mountains a few times a year and love exploring any trails I can find. Most places that I can go, a standard 4x4 can get to it easily, but I daily drive on clay and dirt roads. I really don't want to give up the sensor lift height because I love the look (definitely some bro in me). I'll be adding some Bora wheel spacers at some time too, although I don't think that matters here.

Before you go modifying things. Get the AHC system fixed. See how that makes the ride quality feel.

If the terrain you're on is still too harsh, get equipment to air down and air up your tires.

Driving on fire roads with your tires at 15-20psi will make a huge difference.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Driving on fire roads with your tires at 15-20psi will make a huge difference.

100% This

 

[Cmock13]

Before you go modifying things. Get the AHC system fixed. See how that makes the ride quality feel.

If the terrain you're on is still too harsh, get equipment to air down and air up your tires.

Driving on fire roads with your tires at 15-20psi will make a huge difference.

You wouldn't even add the front spacer? I thought would be better to do them at the same time because I will have the AHC line cracked. I am getting some pressure related issues when I break hard.

 

[Cmock13]

100% This

The fire roads aren't the problem. I'm bouncy on normal roads. I've got an order with Impex in for accumulators.

 

[Cmock13]

You could definitely do things piecemeal. I would just hammer out 1/2/3 in a weekend over beers.

I've been tempted to go ahead and do one and two, but step three is another 300 bucks and this is getting expensive already!!

 

[Heckraiser]

Yes, you can definitely do it bit by bit. And the order of mods that you posted should work well

 

[Goodberger]

I am curious about some of the SS brake lines that have been brought up. Has anyone tried or heard of the Technica-fit brake line kit? It can be ordered in a +2" or +4" extension. My only concern is that it references being a MY '13-'21. I have an '09 model and wonder what differences there could be in the 1st gen vs 2nd gen brakes/lines?

I am due for rear rotor/pad replacements. Like others, I am trying to get ahead of the curve for what is likely a springtime LT conversion. I know others have posted the Toytec tundra lines and those seem to work. I just kind of like the idea of SS lines all the way around as opposed to just extending the rear only.

 

[turbo8]

I am curious about some of the SS brake lines that have been brought up. Has anyone tried or heard of the Technica-fit brake line kit? It can be ordered in a +2" or +4" extension. My only concern is that it references being a MY '13-'21. I have an '09 model and wonder what differences there could be in the 1st gen vs 2nd gen brakes/lines?

I am due for rear rotor/pad replacements. Like others, I am trying to get ahead of the curve for what is likely a springtime LT conversion. I know others have posted the Toytec tundra lines and those seem to work. I just kind of like the idea of SS lines all the way around as opposed to just extending the rear only.

I'm not sure about those, but I'm using these on the front of my 09. Goodridge 2-21127 G-Stop Ss Braided Brake Line Kit - https://thmotorsports.com/3474724-goodridge-g-stop-brake-lines

The rear lines in the goodridge kit didn't work though.

I got these before Goodridge made this kit for the lx570. I'm not sure if these are extended. Search for "Goodridge brake lines 21128"

 

[Goodberger]

I'm not sure about those, but I'm using these on the front of my 09. Goodridge 2-21127 G-Stop Ss Braided Brake Line Kit - https://thmotorsports.com/3474724-goodridge-g-stop-brake-lines

The rear lines in the goodridge kit didn't work though.

I got these before Goodridge made this kit for the lx570. I'm not sure if these are extended. Search for "Goodridge brake lines 21128"

My only hesitation here is price. I believe the SDHQ and slee 4 corner sets are ~225 where this is 190 for fronts only. Are the slee/sdhq options extended or factory lengths?

 

[turbo8]

Slee claims the rear lines are extended. Standard length front lines are ok, unless you also swap to a Tundra front end.

 

[Goodberger]

Slee claims the rear lines are extended. Standard length front lines are ok, unless you also swap to a Tundra front end.

This is good info. Currently I have no plans for tundra swap, but I’m very excited to buy your shock mounts! Hopefully sooner than later.

 

[Drift Monkey]

The long travel brackets themselves do not drive the need for rear spring spacers. It's really about the amount of lift relative to stock and that is governed by the sensor lift and/or height offset. So the minimum spring spacer should be that delta of stock ride height to new ride height. That said, AHC adapts rather well to more spring spacer (to a point). For example, I've lifted the rear 30mm. I have 45mm worth or rear spring spacer. I also have about 200lbs of added rear weight.



Maybe 1/4" worth of shimming might be good under the rear frame bump stops, jounce stops, or both. For the spring spacer, I actually have a 40mm coil spring spacer, but 5mm shim packer above the jounce stop and in between the frame. This effectively lowers the jounce stop 5mm. I also modded the frame bump stop with 1/4" aluminum stock.

View attachment 3981667

As I'm driving harder these days, I added Durabumps all around which makes a nice difference in really hard Baja style running. AHC shocks in sport is also useful when running hard to keep things off the stops.

I'm a little confused on the rear shock spacer recommendation here - is a 1" coil spacer required/recommended when installing this? I'm typically unladen so I'm not terribly worried about preload for weight, but it could be useful I suppose.

You mention Durobumps - having used them in the past on my old 4R, I'm keen to give them a try on the LX - are the rear DBR375 long enough to limit the bump travel change from rear shock spacer?

I ordered both F+R E&E spacers/brackets as I'm getting ready to bleed my AHC soon anyway - so I figured might as well "while I'm in there."

I'm just doing my research and gathering my parts...

 

[turbo8]

I'm a little confused on the rear shock spacer recommendation here - is a 1" coil spacer required/recommended when installing this? I'm typically unladen so I'm not terribly worried about preload for weight, but it could be useful I suppose.

You mention Durobumps - having used them in the past on my old 4R, I'm keen to give them a try on the LX - are the rear DBR375 long enough to limit the bump travel change from rear shock spacer?

I ordered both F+R E&E spacers/brackets as I'm getting ready to bleed my AHC soon anyway - so I figured might as well "while I'm in there."

I'm just doing my research and gathering my parts...

Spring spacers are not required, but some users do put in 20-30mm spacers, those are users with heavier loads.

For the rear shocks spacers I recommend the following:

Brake lines (these are for a Tundra which are already longer than the 200 series and then 2" longer)
toyteclifts.com

SS-TUN7 - Stainless Steel Extended Rear Brake Lines (07-21 Tundra)

Vehicle Fitment: 2007-2021 Tundra

toyteclifts.com

Rear axle breather line
This fuel line works

Amazon.com: PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 1/4 Inch Inside Diameter X 5 Feet Length NRB/PVCC SAE30R6 : Industrial & Scientific

Buy PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 1/4 Inch Inside Diameter X 5 Feet Length NRB/PVCC SAE30R6: Hydraulic Hoses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Bumps
Extended length shock option

https://www.perryparts.com/product-page/ab5r-lexus-lx570-rear-bump-stops

You might want a panhard bar correction kit, like the Dr. KDDS one.
drkdss.com

B.O.T.C.K - Bolt On TrackBar Correction kit Land Cruiser 200 series/ LX 570

Fits: Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series & Lexus LX 570 What It Does Fixes that sketchy, side-to-side axle swing after a lift. Brings your track bar (panhard bar) back to a more natural, level position. Keeps your rig tracking straight, planted, and predictable on-road and off.Bolt-on design — no...

drkdss.com

@NKP Garage made a video, thanks!

 

[Drift Monkey]

Spring spacers are not required, but some users do put in 20-30mm spacers, those are users with heavier loads.

Thanks for all the answers!

Would rear coil spacers lowering the rear pressures be desirable regardless of me not really seeking a weight capacity increase?

 

[ravencr]

Is it pretty much required to run the tundra longer a-arms up front to clear 37’s, or is it possible to do with the stock suspension and the proper wheel backspacing and fender trimming?

Chris

 

[nwfl4runner]

Is it pretty much required to run the tundra longer a-arms up front to clear 37’s, or is it possible to do with the stock suspension and the proper wheel backspacing and fender trimming?

Chris

I think it depends on how much you plan on getting after it. Biggest issue with stock arms is at full bump/lock with the tire hitting the frame, air bypass pumps, and swaybar/kdss. If you’re OK with that, you can body lift, drop bump drops, and get specific backspacing and save a lot of cutting

 

[ravencr]

I think it depends on how much you plan on getting after it. Biggest issue with stock arms is at full bump/lock with the tire hitting the frame, air bypass pumps, and swaybar/kdss. If you’re OK with that, you can body lift, drop bump drops, and get specific backspacing and save a lot of cutting

Good deal. Is it common knowledge what the optimal backspacing is with the stock arms to prevent rubbing on the frame at full lock for a 12.50 and 11.50 inch wide 37” tire by chance?

Chris