LOKKA Part Time on a 2006 LX470 - Transfercase spool installation (1 Viewer)

[LandCruiserPhil]

Having done this in the past I see no reason to remove the t-case for the install. I found it easier and more room on the 100/LX470 series than the 80 series. I put the AHC in High and drove it up on car ramps. Looking back maybe a little too high overall with a lot of reaching.

Should not need to say anything but.... Make sure your vehicle is 100% secure. When you do the install your drive train is free and will not hold the vehicle in place.
► Drain the oil
► Remove the factory skid plate
► I lowered my cross member only because it was a big help on the 80. With that said I did not see much benefit on the 100 series.
► Remove rear drive line. I mark the flanges so it will go back in thew exact location. Not necessary just something I do.
► Unplug all the sensors and transfer case wiring harness and shove it out of the way on top of the t-case.
► Disconnect the breather tube also on top of the t-case

Time to get to the good stuff
► Remove the 9 bolts holding the tail housing on. Take a piece of cardboard and lay the bolt location and poke holes for the bolts for they are different sizes and need to go back in the same location.
► With the bolts removes using a rubber mallet hit the tail section to break the seal.
► It just pulls off. When it does spacers/shims for the idler bearing and output bearing need to be removed if they didnt fall. Save spacers/shims. In most cases the races for these two shafts are loose and can be removed. If they do not slide out dont worry about it but do be aware when you remove the next t-case layer. It will look like the picture above. In the picture the race for the output shaft (on the right) was removed but the idler race is in place.

Above is what we are removing (on the left) and what we are installing (on the right)
The spool comes without a bearing. In the past I have reused the bearing but unless you have a large bearing remover it will be less costly using a new bearing rather than buying a large bearing removing tool. It nice to have everything ready in advance. I will use a new bearing from here on out doing this.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

► Remove the 5 bolt on the upper left round bearing cover (sorry no picture)
► With the cover removed remove the large outer snap ring on the bearing
► Remove the bolts on the next t-case layer using the cardboard bolt location system.
► This part is a little more sensitive to remove so take your time and be smart about beating and prying.
► Keep in mind when you remove the next layer you need to make sure the idler shaft (middle) and output shaft (on the right) can fall out. From this point on you will find your self pushing both shafts back into the case frequently. Do not let these two shaft fall out.

► I use a good air impact to remove the 12 bolts holding the hub in place. With the bolts removed it just falls out.
► I prep the new spool with some grease on the bushing prior to install. All the bolts are cleaned and free of oil when reinstalled. I do not use any type of thread lock and nor does the factory.
► The FSM says to torque all 12 bolts to 65lbs, loosen, and retorque to 72lbs. This should be done in a cross pattern. By making sure both idler and output shafts are pushed in the torque procedure can be done with the spool in place. My procedure - Once all bolts are at 65lbs one by one in a cross pattern I loosen and retorqued marking them along the way with a sharpe and double checking my final torque with a clockwise run. You do not want these to come loose.

At this point this is what it should look like with the new spool in place.
Now start cleaning....everything.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Now is the time to clean all mating surfaces and hardware. Care should be taken when removing off FiPIG/RTV from machined surfaces. I like to use a razor blade upright and scrap the surfaces to avoid ang possibility of gouging. All thread should be cleaned in preparation for fresh FIPIG/RTV on the thread for proper sealing.

FIPIG/RTV application only needs to be 1/16". No much is need for properly sealing machined surface. Pictured below is actually is a little too much but I had to cut more off the end of the applicator so Assembly needs to move at this point because the FIPIG/RTV sets up pretty fast.

Apply oil to the case where the large bearing (on the left) fits the case. Care should be taken with assembly. Prior to installing bolts apply a small amount of FIPIG to the threads for proper sealing. Torque is a cross pattern to 27ft/lbs or better yet 325in/lbs. Once all bolts are torque run another clockwise torque check on all bolts. Apply grease ( I like Green grease from Vatozone for its superior tackeness) to the races for the idler and output shafts. Next with grease apply place the shims and spacers for the bearing races. If applicable the shims go against the race then the spacer. This is an important step because you DO NOT want the spacers and/or shims to fail off when installing the tall shaft, again Green grease has got this. Next and critical step is to index the oil pump drive (center idler shaft) for proper alinment with the tail section. I like to line it up with the bolt hole at the 11 oclock and the tube at the 5 oclock position. This is done by turn the front driveline yoke. At this point you will want to be able to turn the front output or drive line.

FIPIG/RTV application to the tail section. Aline pump drive to match t-case. Pictured below drive is at 10 and 4 and needs to be moved to 2 and 7 Oclock to match the case. When you fit the tail section if you need minor adjustment of the oil pump drive it can be done by rotating the front drive back and forth. Again applying FIPIG/RTV to the bolt threads install in the proper order and torque to 27ft/lbs or 325in/lbs and double check.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Install the large snap ring on the main input bearing. You may need to pull the bearing slightly out to get the snap ring to seat. You know it is seated properly if you can rotate the snap ring. Apply FIPIG to the cover and to the bolt threads for proper sealing. Torque at 27ft/lbs or 325in/lbs.

Install the magnetic drain plug and fill with gear oil. I use inexpensive gear oil for the first couple hundred miles. I then drain it and screen it through an old shirt and check for metal. This is a place I like to use synthetic gear oil. Nice that it only needs 1.3 quartz thanks to the superior oil pump system of this very well built t-case. Reinstall factory cross member bolts and torque at 37ft/lbs. This is a nice opportunity to service the drive lines while they are out and easy to work with. Green grease is the best grease for drive line and yokes I have found.

When I lowered the cross member my heater T's were not happy I guess better now then on my way to Mexico

I was prepared with never ever need replacing metal T's (combination 5/8 & 1/2 fittings) on my shelf. Shown is a special tool I made on the run to remove the broken piece without damage to the hose.

Because the metal T's are SAE factory squeeze clamps are not up to the task and Breeze screw clamps are used with much better access if service is ever needed. Should not need addressing for years to come.

 

[CurbsEnthusiasm]

No links or pics

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

No links or pics

Patience Grasshopper it in the works

 

[abuck99]

Thanks for posting the how to. I was wondering about the spool install for this kit.
I watched a really good video posted from. 4wd shop in Australia but it was on an 80.

When you have time, please post up the part number for the kit you ordered, bearing, and any other related parts.

Any downsides to this upgrade?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thanks for posting the how to. I was wondering about the spool install for this kit.
I watched a really good video posted from. 4wd shop in Australia but it was on an 80.

When you have time, please post up the part number for the kit you ordered, bearing, and any other related parts.

Any downsides to this upgrade?

Basically just like an 80 but without a viscous. They both use the exact same spool.

Downside ►►My opinion - If you wheel your 100 hard I would not do this conversion. The t-case part is super strong having logged 10 of thousand hard wheeled miles on my 80. But the AVM hubs and I went with the heavy duty version are of a poor design and cheaply made compared to any other hub I have seen. There is NO other hub choice available anywhere in any country. Again my opinion


Upside ►► You can smoke your tires
It a ton of fun in the rain. If you put it in 4WD and not lock the hubs its like having ghetto rear posi, A-Trac style. Hook ups pretty good
No more torque steer IH8Torquesteer
No more front parts turning given these components a much longer life
*Nice light feel of the wheel
Wife approved set up she likes the feel



Part numbers - Contact LOKKA and Toyota I made this purchase a long time ago, sorry

* I like the feel of the steering without the pull but like more feedback. When I install my SPC I plan to run 2° possible more caster to get that feel. I run 4° in my 80 and it steers excellent and comfortable at high speeds. I hate to say it but almost better than my LX470...no hate mail.

 

[flintknapper]

Edit: delete

Found my answer

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

In the end I think this is a great mod for anyone not needed there LC for DD in snow. The drive is nice without addition unwanted input to the steering. Without front drive components turning service and longevity is well extended. I do look forward to driving the LX in poser mod (high AHC mode) at cruising speed without any worry of the CV getting mad and puking grease out. The other thing one will notice is a much tighter drive train (we all like tight ,right) no more clunking from rev to drive, nice. I get asked a lot about mileage increases and logic tells me yes there is a increase, noticeable . Do this mod for other reasons not MPG IMO.

Burnt out video once I have the synthetic gear oil in place I still love being stupid

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Follow up -
Because of the value and size of what I did I always check to make sure everything is perfect.
With 700 miles on the upgrade I change the gear oil and check for bad things.

I take a t-shirt and drape it over the drain pan to be used as a ghetto screen.

Drain the gear oil - color looks good(not as dark as the pictures still greenish)

Strain the oil through the shirt and inspect - Very clean, no metal on the magnetic drain plug and nothing notable on the shirt - plug all good to go

Refill with Mobile 1 synthetic

 

[bwell]

[QUOTE="LandCruiserPhil, post: 10842711, member:

Burnt out video once I have the synthetic gear oil in place I still love being stupid[/QUOTE]

Waiting still

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

[QUOTE="LandCruiserPhil, post: 10842711, member:

Burnt out video once I have the synthetic gear oil in place I still love being stupid

Waiting still [/QUOTE]

Im all about it and have been trying! Problem I need to figure out how to disable all the traction crap. I cant even slide in the rain. When you start to spin via burnout attempt Atrac (IH8Atrac) kicked in providing ghetto posi and she hooks up while making a bunch of loud Atrac noise (IH8Atrac) but the dash lights up like a Christmas tree

 

[bwell]

Haha, I'm sure! Sounds like you have given yourself a reason to put a locker in the back! Then when you engage the transfer case switch to disengage the vsc, you'll be good to go!

Favorite pastime of mine was in a 85 GMC shortbed 4x4 locked f/r that had a 383 in it. Big old fat black donuts with 33x12.5's.

 

[SS100]

Waiting still

Im all about it and have been trying! Problem I need to figure out how to disable all the traction crap. I cant even slide in the rain. When you start to spin via burnout attempt Atrac (IH8Atrac) kicked in providing ghetto posi and she hooks up while making a bunch of loud Atrac noise (IH8Atrac) but the dash lights up like a Christmas tree[/QUOTE]

So what if you (very) lightly left foot brake to disable the A-Trac ?

On a more serious note, Thanks for posting!!
I didn't know this part-time conversion was available. We don't have snow in TX, so I will definitely look into doing it on my Hundy. I've owned two part-time 80 Series (non-US Spec) in the past and much prefer the drive feeling of part-time vs full-time. Besides, if something breaks in the front while on a trip, (which on the 100 Series is highly probable DAMHIK x 2 ) you have the added benefit of unlocking the hubs and putting the T-Case in 2WD and simply heading home without even turning a wrench.

My only quirk about the conversion you describe is the AVM hubs. I've had VERY bad experience with them. I've seen them explode like a grenade (when worked on a rig with a locked differential) and even if the 100 is not really wheeled hard, it is a heavy truck that will put a lot of strain on her components.

You state you couldn't find other locking hubs in any other country. I'm guessing you looked for 100 Series-specific hubs?
I'm asking because the pre-2002 70 Series AISIN hubs are the same as the ones on the Part Time 80 Series. (Both 6 lug-nut wheel pattern)
But he 2002+ 70 Series was changed to a 5 lug-nut wheel pattern so it's locking hubs "might" (?) work on the 100 Series...
If the AISIN locking hubs from the 70 Series are a direct bolt on, they will totally be up to the task and definitely not the weak link in the conversion. (Although maybe it's better to break a hub than break a CV Axle? LOL!)
I'll do some research and see what comes up.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Im all about it and have been trying! Problem I need to figure out how to disable all the traction crap. I cant even slide in the rain. When you start to spin via burnout attempt Atrac (IH8Atrac) kicked in providing ghetto posi and she hooks up while making a bunch of loud Atrac noise (IH8Atrac) but the dash lights up like a Christmas tree

So what if you (very) lightly left foot brake to disable the A-Trac ?

On a more serious note, Thanks for posting!!
I didn't know this part-time conversion was available. We don't have snow in TX, so I will definitely look into doing it on my Hundy. I've owned two part-time 80 Series (non-US Spec) in the past and much prefer the drive feeling of part-time vs full-time. Besides, if something breaks in the front while on a trip, (which on the 100 Series is highly probable DAMHIK x 2 ) you have the added benefit of unlocking the hubs and putting the T-Case in 2WD and simply heading home without even turning a wrench.

My only quirk about the conversion you describe is the AVM hubs. I've had VERY bad experience with them. I've seen them explode like a grenade (when worked on a rig with a locked differential) and even if the 100 is not really wheeled hard, it is a heavy truck that will put a lot of strain on her components.

You state you couldn't find other locking hubs in any other country. I'm guessing you looked for 100 Series-specific hubs?
I'm asking because the pre-2002 70 Series AISIN hubs are the same as the ones on the Part Time 80 Series. (Both 6 lug-nut wheel pattern)
But he 2002+ 70 Series was changed to a 5 lug-nut wheel pattern so it's locking hubs "might" (?) work on the 100 Series...
If the AISIN locking hubs from the 70 Series are a direct bolt on, they will totally be up to the task and definitely not the weak link in the conversion. (Although maybe it's better to break a hub than break a CV Axle? LOL!)
I'll do some research and see what comes up.[/QUOTE]

After a lot of phone calls around the world and wasted purchases of Aisin hubs there is no other hub is available in the world to fit a US 100 series. It has been rumored if you change the cv stub an Aisin hub will fit but vendor that stated that will not guarantee it to fit so I have no confidence it will work.

 

[SS100]

So what if you (very) lightly left foot brake to disable the A-Trac ?

On a more serious note, Thanks for posting!!
I didn't know this part-time conversion was available. We don't have snow in TX, so I will definitely look into doing it on my Hundy. I've owned two part-time 80 Series (non-US Spec) in the past and much prefer the drive feeling of part-time vs full-time. Besides, if something breaks in the front while on a trip, (which on the 100 Series is highly probable DAMHIK x 2 ) you have the added benefit of unlocking the hubs and putting the T-Case in 2WD and simply heading home without even turning a wrench.

My only quirk about the conversion you describe is the AVM hubs. I've had VERY bad experience with them. I've seen them explode like a grenade (when worked on a rig with a locked differential) and even if the 100 is not really wheeled hard, it is a heavy truck that will put a lot of strain on her components.

You state you couldn't find other locking hubs in any other country. I'm guessing you looked for 100 Series-specific hubs?
I'm asking because the pre-2002 70 Series AISIN hubs are the same as the ones on the Part Time 80 Series. (Both 6 lug-nut wheel pattern)
But he 2002+ 70 Series was changed to a 5 lug-nut wheel pattern so it's locking hubs "might" (?) work on the 100 Series...
If the AISIN locking hubs from the 70 Series are a direct bolt on, they will totally be up to the task and definitely not the weak link in the conversion. (Although maybe it's better to break a hub than break a CV Axle? LOL!)
I'll do some research and see what comes up.

After a lot of phone calls around the world and wasted purchases of Aisin hubs there is no other hub is available in the world to fit a US 100 series. It has been rumored if you change the cv stub an Aisin hub will fit but vendor that stated that will not guarantee it to fit so I have no confidence it will work.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the info. Saves me a lot of time and probably money

 

[Sanchez]

@LandCruiserPhil
Hi,
Do you remember the part number for the bearing you used on the new spool?

Thanks
Juan

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

@LandCruiserPhil
Hi,
Do you remember the part number for the bearing you used on the new spool?

Thanks
Juan

Posted on your 80 thread

 

[yjeff]

How long is the install?