When it's flashing there is a call for engagement from the switch but not yet engaged. The switch inside the diff housing is activated when the locker yoke actually moves the locker sleeve into lock position. AFIR.
locker actuator rebuild (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter landtank
- Start date
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What is weird is I can tell the axle is actually locked even though it still flashes for a few min. wonder if its just not sliding on all the way?
Also if I engage both F/R the front will go solid while rear still flashes even though all are actually locked
I have not. Wasn’t aware such a procedure existed. Not sure how it could get messed up? Only thing I’ve done back there is a rear axle service to replace the seals. Will check that out, thank you!
- Thread starter
- #125
The light blinking or not is just an indicator of the state of the of the locker. It’s not part of the control side of the circuit.
I’d just replace the switch, they fail like this all the time, mainly from lack of use.
If the blinking light is not a waiting to engage indicator what is it? A motor winding up indicator?
- Thread starter
- #127
that light is an unreliable indicator that the diff is locked. If it's solid the diff is locked and if it's blinking it still may be locked, or not. The reliability of that light being accurate comes down to the switch. From lack of use the contacts in the switch corrode and make for a very bad connection and fail to accurately indicate a locked position.
The OP says that he as confirmed that the diff is locked but the light is still blinking. In my experience it's the switch.
The OP says that he as confirmed that the diff is locked but the light is still blinking. In my experience it's the switch.
ya for sure, thank you for the tip!
- Thread starter
- #130
I had an hour long drive this morning which is when I do some of my best pondering.
Pull the switch out and check the position of the ramped tab that triggers it. It should be close to the center of the hole.
That should indicate if the actuator is fully engaged or not.
Pull the switch out and check the position of the ramped tab that triggers it. It should be close to the center of the hole.
That should indicate if the actuator is fully engaged or not.
Excellent, thank you sir!
Update….so I ended up going to a store that specializes in carbon brushes. The ones from Amazon are a little too small. Was a little sloppy in the brush housing for my liking. Seems like the actual measurement is closer to 5mm. The brushes I got from the store were a little too big to fit into the brush housing so i sanded them down to fit. Wired it all back up. Tested the actuator with a 9v battery. Nothing. Opened it back up checked all my connections. Verified all good. Closed it back up. 9v again. Nothing. Any ideas why my actuator is not turning anymore? Oh and the actuator is on my workbench testing it. Also never took apart the gear and spring in the actuator itself. Just removed it to clean and apply new grease.
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I was never able to get mine to move with the smaller batteries. I think the FSM says to use 1.5v, which is a AA. I've always had to use jumper wires off the car battery.
Fixing my (got stuck engaged) rear locker. Took all off, cleaned it out etc.
Was in good condition but two of the magnets were loose.
Reglued and in NSNS configuration but wondering if polarity makes a difference.
Can feel it trying to move the motor for 1/2 sec (either 9v or 12v) but appears to be binding. Switching + or - no difference. I don't have any gears in so its just the shaft with the electric cover on
Checked via calipers and magnets 'seem' to be in the right position etc.
Manually spinning the motor/shaft in the cover seems harder than I'd expect. Would have thought it would be a lot smoother.
Wondering if I need to grind down the magnets a little to see if gets it going. Maybe put some chalk on it to see where touching
Was in good condition but two of the magnets were loose.
Reglued and in NSNS configuration but wondering if polarity makes a difference.
Can feel it trying to move the motor for 1/2 sec (either 9v or 12v) but appears to be binding. Switching + or - no difference. I don't have any gears in so its just the shaft with the electric cover on
Checked via calipers and magnets 'seem' to be in the right position etc.
Manually spinning the motor/shaft in the cover seems harder than I'd expect. Would have thought it would be a lot smoother.
Wondering if I need to grind down the magnets a little to see if gets it going. Maybe put some chalk on it to see where touching
Maybe the glue is too thick and is pushing the magnets to close to the armature?
- Thread starter
- #136
That’s not a good way to check it. Put the shaft in the housing and the cap in place so the shaft is captured on both ends.
checked via calipers and 'seems' all the same (at least the two that I replaced , comparing them to the two existing ones)Maybe the glue is too thick and is pushing the magnets to close to the armature?
agreed but with motor and shaft in place with cover on (with 3 screws) I'm not getting any turning.
Methinks I'll take the 2 magnets off again and double check polarity. Right now NSNS is the orientation of the 4 in place but I DON'T know the polarity.
On the PDF file (Overhauling the Differential Actuators.pdf) it shows NNNN but I presume thats the polarity I need to reach
- Thread starter
- #139
You should be able to rotate the some if the cover and gesrcsssembly aren’t installed.
will de-grease and try but seems 'stuck'. I'll check my magnets in morning and see if they are the problem
