locker actuator rebuild (1 Viewer)

Joined
Dec 15, 2020
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UK - south east
My rear wasn’t engaging, opened it up today, what a mess!

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I will see what/if I can save anything.
I think all but one bolt snapped straight off even after being left in oil, welding nuts onto the broken studs didn’t work either. Center punched and drilled out the best I could, will use a bolt and nut to secure.

tomorrow’s job is to get the big pin free, it’s soaking away currently.
Order sealant and glue for the seals and magnets and get it to a point where I can bench test it.

who ever thought about mixing Aluminium and steel is a devil
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2015
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Eastern Washington
For everyone who's worried about opening theirs up I think the point of the kit is not so much to be able to rebuild a failed locker (which it helps with) but more to do preventative maintenance and keep them from getting so bad. Having just done mine I'd highly recommend anyone with good functioning lockers that have never had the seals replaced put this on their to do list. Mine worked fine but I could tell when I opened them up that the seals were starting to let water and dirt in. With seals replaced, bolts cleaned up with new anti seize, and new grease through out I feel better about these going the distance. It seems daunting but once you've done it once It's actually not that hard. My plan is to PM these about every 5 years or so just to keep them at peak operating condition.
 

landtank

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I just revisited my kits and have added a shaft seal that I was missing in the 8" kit and both kits now will be coming with a tube of super lube.
 
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I just revisited my kits and have added a shaft seal that I was missing in the 8" kit and both kits now will be coming with a tube of super lube.

Are you talking about the little seal on the shaft inside that keeps oil from the front diff from entering the actuator? Was the only one I had to reuse when I did mine. Looked like some special type of O-Ring. Probably fine for now but will be a good addition to the kit and something I can replace next time.
 
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Dec 15, 2020
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UK - south east
Where's the link to buy the new and improved rebuild kits? I'm interested.
Thanks.

Same here! Can we get any parts for these?

My motor windings seem to be bad, smoking when I bench test it just now.
I seem to have also messed up the plastic teeth in the large wheel.
Motor cover that the magnets are housed inwould also be a good thing to replace on mine
 

landtank

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Same here! Can we get any parts for these?

My motor windings seem to be bad, smoking when I bench test it just now.
I seem to have also messed up the plastic teeth in the large wheel.
Motor cover that the magnets are housed inwould also be a good thing to replace on mine
time for a new actuator. you can get new Aisins on Rock Auto for a good price.
 
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Feb 7, 2015
Messages
701
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Eastern Washington
Someone in this thread had their motor rewound. I'd imagine an electric motor repair shop might be able to help you there. They might be able to source the magnets too.

For the plastic wheel make friends with someone with a 3d printer or maybe put out a want to buy for non-functioning lockers on the classified here. Get a couple of them and you might be able to replace your wheel and your magnets too.
 
Joined
Dec 15, 2020
Messages
20
Location
UK - south east
Someone in this thread had their motor rewound. I'd imagine an electric motor repair shop might be able to help you there. They might be able to source the magnets too.

For the plastic wheel make friends with someone with a 3d printer or maybe put out a want to buy for non-functioning lockers on the classified here. Get a couple of them and you might be able to replace your wheel and your magnets too.
Yer I think the windings have gone, so would need to be rewound, I would have a go at it.

thinking about electric actuators currently, much like the air actuators that have already been developed.

I need to do more research but I believe the only reason for the clocking and the complicated design is to limit the throw of the output shaft to the fork. Which from unlocked to locked is about 1/2 inch (2” 3/8 to 2” 7/8) - so an actuator that has enough force and a 1/2 inch throw would potentially do the job and be a lot more serviceable/cheaper to replace.
 
Joined
Dec 30, 2020
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1
Location
DFW
I picked up a locking rear end from the JY for $400 for my Tacoma. I stumbled across this thread and figured I’d order the rebuild kit and install before putting it on the truck. I was definitely a bit worried with what I would find inside after seeing some of the photos on here, finally pulled the actuator apart today and was pleased to find that it looked basically brand new inside minus some dirt which I may have pushed into it while trying to get it apart. I was able to get the Phillips head screws out easily aswell by cleaning the dirt out of the head and using a JIS screwdriver.
 

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