Rear Locker Actuator Corroded Bolts (1 Viewer)

[downhiller2010]

Before I go strip these suckers out, what is the best way to get in here with a full size socket for good positive contact? I’ve been soaking them in blaster and hitting with heat. Everything else has come out easy. Also - I will likely need some new 10mm bolts to replace these. Anyone have the part number for those?

 

[Kernal]

Hard to tell from the photo which bolts you're working on (how many are there?).

You can go to Partsouq dot com, type in your VIN, then find the correct section (Rear Axle) in the parts system showing the locker motor. The bolt part numbers should be there.

Example:

 

[lp2k]

I would invest in a good snap on 10mm flank drive wrench- you want to grip the side, not the corners. Also when you crack it, make sure you spray some freeall or lube oil and work it back and fourth. I have been there before and those orange bolts I am seeing remind me of my battle and blood pressure rising. Soak it and you want to also look at the double wrench method so you can get more leverage (so picture you have the 10mm wrench and then another wrench coupled at the end to give you added leverage.

 

[Kernal]

FWIW I'm not a fan of PB Blaster, IME there are better penetrating oils. As lp2k mentioned, Free All works well IME, or Aero Kroil, or Freeze Off.
What I like to do is (if it will fit) use a small brass brush around the bolt to remove any rust, grime, etc, then spray with a quick drying solvent (if using Acetone or Toluene protect paint, plastic, and rubber parts, wear eye protection) then spray the penetrating oil before the solvent evaporates. Let it soak, repeat. Apply light heat to the bolt head (don't melt the aluminum) then immediately repeat the penetrating oil. Repeat. Repeat.

 

[lp2k]

The bottom will be easy but the top bolts- get comfortable . Give yourself room to be comfortable working in this position- I think I had her jacked up with 4 6-ton jacks all over the place so I can sit Indian style

 

[downhiller2010]

The bottom will be easy but the top bolts- get comfortable . Give yourself room to be comfortable working in this position- I think I had her jacked up with 4 6-ton jacks all over the place so I can sit Indian style
View attachment 3868162

Thankfully I do have her on a lift!

 

[Irish Reiver]

When i pulled mine off last year one of the bottom bolts was fused to the actuator casing and broke the corner of the casing. A new actuator isn't cheap so maybe a few taps with a brass hammer first will help reduce any chance of damage.

 

[NeverFinis]

Heat + Wax (e.g. crayola crayon). Heat the area around the bolt, including the diff casing where the bolt threads into, with way more heat than you are comfortable with, then touch the bolt head edges with the crayon.

My rear housing was a solid piece of rust and I managed to get those bolts out unscathed.

Rockauto does have Dorman and Aisin replacements for the actuators and they are available on AliExpress for a very low cost.

 

[CharlieS]

This would be a great thing for one of those inductive bolt heaters.

 

[NeverFinis]

This would be a great thing for one of those inductive bolt heaters.

I want one so bad...it would have saved me a ton of time on my rebuild. Should be a requirement to have one if you live in a rust belt and work on vehicles.

 

[downhiller2010]

I want one so bad...it would have saved me a ton of time on my rebuild. Should be a requirement to have one if you live in a rust belt and work on vehicles.

I might just order one of these…..

 

[lp2k]

should be said but please, order new bolts from toyota. the OEM bolts are discontinued and have been superseded by a better bolt

 

[NeverFinis]

Today I came across these pictures of mine.

Heat wasn't working. I think it was making it worse because Aluminum expands more from heat than steel.

I remember now that I used a dremel with a carbide bit, and removed most of the head. It was galvanic corrosion that was the issue, and removing the head removed the pressure caused by the corrosion. The bolts then easily spun out. You can see the bolt threads had no corrosion.

 

[Kernal]

That's one reason (galvanic corrosion) I often use a Thread sealer including over/under washers and flange head bolts. FWIW.

 

[Mark W]

Don't use a wrench. Use a six sided socket. If that still manages to slip and round (doubtful as those are not that badly corroded) then run down to Lowes and get a set of these.

Basically they are inverse screw extractors.

I use them most often on the nuts on the O2 sensors. These are often no more than lumps of rust wrapped around the studs. I have never had these fail to bite and remove them.

No matter what socket you use, if you have air and an impact use this over a rachet. You will have less (almost no) off angle twisting this way. Just put it on the lowest setting and hold it very firmly and let it hit a couple of times. It should break those free so quick you will be left wondering why you were concerned.

Mark...