LM7/4L60E swap with no lift

Joined
Sep 24, 2009
Messages
3,758
Location
Cologne, MN
 
 
I use the 80 series cooler on my 60. Just ran rubber trans lines from the trans to the cooler. If you have enough line to clamp a hose on you should be good. If not, just but a 12” line at the parts store, cut it in half and use them for your 2 lines at the trans. Just cut them clean, maybe put a bubble flare on them for good measure.

Did you get a converter and converter, bell housing bolts with it?
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
140
Location
Minneapolis, MN
I use the 80 series cooler on my 60. Just ran rubber trans lines from the trans to the cooler. If you have enough line to clamp a hose on you should be good.
Ah that makes it easy! They left me about 2 inches from the old lines so I should be able to clamp it.
Did you get a converter and converter, bell housing bolts with it?
Yes, I was pretty lucky with this purchase. Converter, converter bolts, and bell housing bolts. They even let me snag a DBW harness for free :)

I'll post some pictures once I finish the standalone harness. All my goodies from waytek should be here soon...
 
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Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
140
Location
Minneapolis, MN
F-body oil pan/windage tray/pickup installed. Also replaced the front and rear main seals with the special alignment tool. Unfortunately the threads where the oil pump connects to the pickup tube were pretty messed up from a previous mechanic (Likely due to not following proper torque rating of 106 lb in). It's not completely stripped but I'm going to order another oil pump just in case.
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thatcabledude

SILVER Star
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Oct 20, 2011
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3,371
Location
Walton Co, FL
 
Picked up a 2WD 4l60e with 90k miles for $350 this weekend. What is the best way to plumb the transmission cooler lines? My trans has the stock GM lines cut off. I'd like to use the factory Toyota external cooler but I don't know if that would be sufficient cooling/easy to adapt fittings.
I ran 3/8 hose. I will swap it to AN as originally planned one day. It’s been like that for 20k miles though. Just use good hose. There are fittings out there that adapt to barb at the trans. I put it through some reflective hose loom where it runs close the the exhaust.
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
140
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Minneapolis, MN
I haven't been able to work on it much over the last 2 weeks. Our dog had to have an emergency surgery so I haven't been able to put much time into the swap lately. I spent a couple days reading over all the wiring diagrams and managed to get a standalone built. I plan on attaching the TAC module and ECU to the same plate that the fuse box sits on. The next few weeks will be much more productive.
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Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
140
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Been a while since my last update. I didn't get much done during January due to the cold, but it's starting to get into the forties in MN :banana: . It's go time. Got the drivetrain assembled.

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Got the dirty dingo mounts mocked up. Hoping to weld them in this week! Wiring is complete, still need to order fuel fittings, PS cooler/fittings, cooling system, and shifter. Other members have had success with the trailblazer shifter so I will try that first.

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Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
140
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Got my motor mounts tacked in. Going to do one last test fit before I burn them in for good.
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I've been trying to pick up TIG welding the last year, so I decided to TIG everything even though its not the ideal process for 6mm thick plate. I've never gotten an opportunity to do multi-pass TIG, so this was a good learning experience :). My machine maxes out at 200 amps, which isn't enough for a textbook single pass weld. I cooked the first mount a bit by moving too slow but it has good penetration so I'm not concerned. Since I'll be stuck at home for the next few months I want to practice a bunch so I picked up a new hood! I learned on a passive hood and a quality auto-dark makes a MASSIVE difference. Would recommend.

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Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
140
Location
Minneapolis, MN
You may want to pull your front coils so it sits on the bump stops to check all your clearances. Also make sure the Motor/Trans runs parallel with your frame rails so your drive line angles won't be crooked at all.
Would it matter if the driveline is a couple degrees off from parallel? I was thinking that as long as clearance is adequate on the DS and oil pan it wouldn't matter. Obviously if its really crooked it might be a problem. I will definitely take out the bump stops.
 
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
880
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PA
 
Could cause some drive shaft vibrations. Input and output flanges should be parallel , both vertically and horizontally.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
8,012
 
Yeah the pinion and the tcase flange should be parallel to the frame rails within like 2 degrees. I meant remove your coil springs and let it sit on the bump stops, but leave your bump stops in.
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
140
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Dang! Super close to clearing the deep style trans pan but its definitely going to need a slight notch. Another thing I noticed was that the truck alternator sits up really high in the engine bay. Has anyone done a car style alternator relocation?
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Also, I assume it matters which way I orient the front driveshaft. Because I realize now its in backwards....🤦‍♂️
 
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Joined
Sep 24, 2009
Messages
3,758
Location
Cologne, MN
 
 
Wait until you set it in before you relocate the alternator. It may fit. Remember, the truck intake is high also. It all fit under the hood of my 60. But it’s so close the hood insulation touches the intake cover.

You may need to adjust the motor mounts
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
140
Location
Minneapolis, MN
I think I'm going to try and lower the mounts a bit. I don't have much room until the AC belt tensioner will hit the crossmember, maybe 1 1/2 inches. Not sure if that will give me enough room. I could also try moving the trans crossmember back 1/2 inch. That would give me a bit more hood clearance too.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
8,012
 
Dang! Super close to clearing the deep style trans pan but its definitely going to need a slight notch. Another thing I noticed was that the truck alternator sits up really high in the engine bay. Has anyone done a car style alternator relocation?
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Also, I assume it matters which way I orient the front driveshaft. Because I realize now its in backwards....🤦‍♂️
You should be able to make the alternator clear. The evap vent valve hit the hood on mine.
 
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