LM7/4L60E swap with no lift (1 Viewer)

[daytonadogie]

Getting a smaller diameter driveshaft would solve a lot of issues. it might clear the deep trans pan and let you lower the engine to clear the hood. Your going to need to notch the bell housing too. You can’t modify the pan too much because of interference with the filter. I made the stock driveshaft work but it was a PITA.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Thanks for all the advice guys, I think I've got it perfect this time. I put it on bump stops to check clearances. I lowered my mounts about an inch and pushed the engine towards the drivers side a bit. Oil pan clears the diff by 1/4 inch on the bump stops, and the truck intake rubs the hood insulation. I've removed the engine/trans about 5 times now to check/change the mounts and this is the best I could do.

Oil pan to diff clearance on bump stops from under the car.

Edit: I realize that the dirty dingo mounts use another bushing on top, I just was too lazy to add them during the mockups.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

I've been working on finishing up the wiring. While I was looking for the circuit open relay in the drivers footwell, I discovered an aftermarket alarm system . Removing these things is always a pain and this is no different. I think I've got everything removed but there is one thing bothering me. The male plug pictured below is just sitting there. Nothing was connected to it and no female plug is in sight. The plug has 2 rows, top row has 4 pins, bottom has 6 pins, with the 2nd from the right being a blank.

Initially, I though this plug was the ID3 plug pictured here. But upon further investigation I found the ID1,ID2, and ID3 plugs all connected and intact.

I'm bamboozled. It seems like a OEM plug, but nothing plugs into it. I put power to the car and I haven't found any chassis functions that aren't working. Lights, dash, wipers all work.

Here is the FWD if you wanna take a shot at it https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...442806549877/1996+Toyota+Land+Cruiser+EWD.pdf

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Been hitting a wall on some wiring issues. For some reason pin 21 of the IH1 connector, which is supposed to read +12v only on start, is reading 12v during IG1/IG2 positions as well as the start position. When I was removing the aftermarket alarm I put a multimeter on the B/W starter wire coming from the ignition switch, it seems to be working properly and is displaying +12v only in the start position. Basically, at some point between the ignition switch and the IH1 connector, it's getting +12v magically. Even if I completely disconnect the B/W wire from the ignition switch, pin 21 of IH1 is still getting power. I'm not an expert but it looks like I may have to rip apart the dash to investigate further.

I should also mention that I did a continuity test on the B/W starter wire and it is continuous.

 

[Madcrix12]

Someone prob tapped I to it somewhere.. easiest place to check is close to radio in engine bay or under steering wheel. That's your most likely areas

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Someone prob tapped I to it somewhere.. easiest place to check is close to radio in engine bay or under steering wheel. That's your most likely areas

They did tap into it under the steering wheel, I removed the aftermarket alarm but B/W starter wire is still getting voltage from somewhere other than the ignition switch. I think dash removal is the only way to fix this. Looking at the FWD the wire should go from Ignition switch -> Cruise ECU/ECM/IH1 -> P/N switch -> starter.

 

[Madcrix12]

Based on that diagram...if inam reading proper, it should be firing the starter if it has 12 volts

 

[mitchjohnson000]

The problem isn't that the starter won't fire. The issue is that it will signal the starter motor all the time the vehicle is running.

 

[Madcrix12]

Oh that's what is happening. By chance are you diesel 24volt starter?

 

[mitchjohnson000]

I don't have the starter hooked up, I'm just using a multimeter on the signal wire.

 

[Madcrix12]

Ok so

1 if u connect starter I assume it tumbles and tumbles after it has started.
2 I had this problem. Was a relay that failed in the closed position next to my 24volt unit.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

I think I have narrowed it down to the cruise control ECU. If I unplug the cruise ECU, pin 21 of IH1 is reading 12V only on start, which is correct. Plugging it back in causes pin 21 of IH1 to read 12v on IG1 and start, which is incorrect operation. I suspect a grounding issue is causing this.

 

[cruisermatt]

Yeah, definitely a floating ground. Had something similar last year where my hazard lights would trigger my starter. I would just start with whatever known non-OEM wiring is on the truck, like trailer lights, aftermarket alarm, etc, I doubt it's really a problem within the OEM wiring.

This may be frustrating and take awhile to find, but when you do you'll be glad.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

I'm thinking it has to be an issue with the grounding of the cruise ECU. Nothing else seems possible. I took off the dash looking for other modifications to the wiring harness but found none.

 

[Madcrix12]

Did u try unplugging the jack on the cruise control motor? Also u dont need the cruise control ecu anymore, so leave it unplugged. Problem sloved

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Yeah I could just remove the cruise ECU and call it a day, but tbh at this point I'd rather find the root issue. I could run a wire directly from the ignition switch to to the GM starter signal but I've done too much work to make wiring janky.

 

[Madcrix12]

try unplugging the cruise control jack my the motor. it may be shorting there. since you traced it back to the cruise control system (prob) focus there until u eliminate it

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Tried removing the cruise control motor, still having the same problem. I also checked that the ground wire from the cruise ECU is grounding properly.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Can someone with a working 80 do me a huge favor and measure the voltage of pin 2 of the cruise control ecu when in IG1 position? I'm perplexed. I've checked every ground on the car. I even took out the cruise ecu circuit board and gave it a look over, no obvious melted capacitors or anything strange.

Edit: nevermind, looks like this has happened to someone else. Impending Vortec Swap. This is caused by the pull-up resistor in the CC ecu. It will always be outputting a small amount of current, this is normal.