LM7/4L60E swap with no lift (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Threads
5
Messages
303
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Hi all,
I recently bought an FZJ80 from a member here with a severely overheated engine. The rest of the truck is in relatively good shape; minor surface rust on the underside but all the body panels are rust free (which is rare for an MN 80). The plan is to do a 5.3 swap with the Marks adapter but retain the stock ride height. I've read virtually every V8 swap thread on the forum and the consensus seems to be either you need a 3''-4'' lift or smaller diameter front driveshaft. I would prefer to either notch the transmission pan and/or shift the entire engine up and to the drivers side. I know a few MUD members have done this before but I haven't found much documentation.

Some other notable items I have planned for the build:
  • Dirty Dingo universal engine mounts
  • Larger radiator (Don't trust the OEM one after it was overheated)
  • Custom PS/AC lines
  • sourcing a full 5.3 4L60e pullout with harness/ecu/pedal
  • maybe a new fuel system?
I will use this thread to document all my progress and ask questions when I inevitably get stuck...:)

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Old engine seems pretty cooked
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@RockJock82 did one with no lift. You'll need to use a car intake so you can position the motor as high as possible and he also used a smaller diameter driveshaft.
 
I have no lift on mine. Still have the truck intake. Build thread is in my sig
How did you get clearance for the front driveshaft? I just went through your thread, it has a ton of great info but I didn't see anything about front driveshaft/motor mount placement.
 
How did you get clearance for the front driveshaft? I just went through your thread, it has a ton of great info but I didn't see anything about front driveshaft/motor mount placement.
Mark's 4wd has a thinner driveshaft. That's what I used. I also had to notch the trans oil pan to help. I notched the engine oil pan to clear the tie rod. Had to cut a hole in the hood and install a hood scoop to clear the truck intake. Motor is placed as far back as possible. When doing the swap pull the front coils so its sitting on the bump stops and realize too that the bump stops squish when hit hard. A 1 or 2 inch body lift would help a lot but I dont have one. Its tight inside the trans tunnel. I have the crossmember lowered about 1/4".
 
Got some of the front end disassembled. Any ideas on the best way to discharge the AC?. I could have it towed to a shop.

View attachment 2127032

Best way or the legal way?
Legal is have it evac'd by a professional A/C shop.
People have "accidentally" cracked open the valve and "accidentally" let it empty out when their garage door just happen to be open for ventilation... not that I condone that... 😐
 
I was able to do my swap with the stock driveshafts, and truck intake, with no hood mods. I placed the engine as high up and to the left as I could, and don‘t use the engine cover. I also egged out the holes on the cross member to move the transfer case over maybe a half inch. Used a shallow style tranny pan and modified it with a hammer. Camaro oil pan. As White Stripe suggested, I-removed the coils to see where the interferences were at full compression, and had to notch out the bell housing right under the starter. If I had to do it over again i’d get a smaller diameter front drive shaft right from the start.
 
I will look into getting a smaller front driveshaft made locally. Finding a good 5.3L 4L60e combo is proving to be somewhat tricky. I don't want to buy an entire other vehicle since I don't have space for that. The junkyard seems like a good option but removing an engine and trans in MN winter sounds unpleasant. Also, all the fasteners on MN junkyard engines will be extremely rusted. I've found a few online that are priced well ~$1400, but they want a freight dock or forklift. Finding a business willing to take delivery and load onto my trailer seems like best option currently.
 
Save yourself the headache and run a car intake, l92 or hot rod oil pan, Camaro trans pan, notch the trans bellhousing and run the smallest front driveshaft your local shop and make.
 
You do not need to find a business, just pick it up at the receiving terminal. BTDT, it saves a lot of aggravation.
 
I found an LM7 with all accessories/harness/ecu/pedal and 140k miles for $400. Checked it out last night and got to see it run before it was taken out. Picking it up Monday:). I plan on redoing all the seals except for the headgasket and getting new knock sensors.
 
I found an LM7 with all accessories/harness/ecu/pedal and 140k miles for $400. Checked it out last night and got to see it run before it was taken out. Picking it up Monday:). I plan on redoing all the seals except for the headgasket and getting new knock sensors.
What year? Early ones do not have MLS head gaskets. I would do them while it’s out if that’s your case.
 
Front crank seal is a pain. Make sure to get the right puller for removing the harmonic balancer. You will also need a installer tool for the harmonic balancer. May as well get I new balancer. I got a dayco one off of rock auto. That sounds like you got a great deal.
And to do it by the book, a new bolt.
 
Best way or the legal way?
Legal is have it evac'd by a professional A/C shop.
People have "accidentally" cracked open the valve and "accidentally" let it empty out when their garage door just happen to be open for ventilation... not that I condone that... 😐
R134? Who cares. Not that different from an air duster
 
If anyone needs anything from the old engine/trans let me know. Although I never drove the truck the transmission was working so I was told... otherwise its going to the scrapyard since I don't have an abundance of space :confused:

EDIT: if anyone local to Minneapolis wants the transmission PM me.
 
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