Lifted? Tracks with ruts in road. Shackles too long (1 Viewer)

[84lumberman]

Let me start off by thanking everyone on the previous couple of threads that I posted about my carburetor and my brake wheel cylinders because they helped out a ton and I was able to resolve all of the issues.

Now, a new issue......maybe.

I am assuming this truck is lifted. I had a 1976 before and it didn't look like it's at this high but I don't know what the 1970s look like. One thing I noticed is that the front shackles are 5 3/4" inches. If I remember correctly they should be 2 3/4" inches.

Now my truck tracks with the ruts in the road so I am assuming it is because it is lifted and does not have castor shims. By looking at the pictures can anyone tell? It appears to me that the arch of the u-bolts is facing toward the front bumper slightly. I'm guessing this is changing the castor angle and causing this problem.

Should I just install castor shims and fix the problem or should I go back to the original shackles? Will this change anything?

I also included a picture of the rear shackles. Can anyone tell me if these are the correct ones? I can assure you they are 2 3/4" inches though

 

[84lumberman]

Here are the other pics

 

[84lumberman]

anyone have a clue looking at these pics?

 

[snaggletto]

Yes, approximately 4 - 6 deg caster shims would help tracking on the front and any driveshaft vibes on the rear due to the longer shackles. Steel shims are preferred, aluminum ones squish and never stay tight. Differential pinions front and back should be more horizontal and should not be pointing up towards the transfer case.

 

[onemanarmy]

Best idea is to put stock length shackles on. Or , some 4 degree shins for the front with those extended shackles.

 

[FJBen]

Agree with above? Those look like lift springs as well, and they look too short which causes straight up and down shackles. Harsh ride.

solid axles will follow ruts in the road more, but getting the caster shims, steel highly preferred, should be the first step.

 

[B y r o n]

Post #2, first and last photos, looks like the steering stabilizer is not fully tightened to the bell crank. You didn't mention what you toe in setting was either. Both of these could also be contributing factors.

 

[snaggletto]

Agree, loose or worn steering components will cause many bad handling characteristics. The shims are cheap and easy to install and should definitely help. One step at a time...

 

[Downey]

Not sure who manufactured your army tank single wrap springs, but I bet they are knocking the dentures right out of your head ???

 

[George Amonette]

Can someone post a picture of this caster shims? It was mention in my suspension thread, but I didn't understand what they are talking about. My new set up also seems to track the ruts, but I figured any tire/set up is stuck in the ruts no matter what one does.

 

[84lumberman]

Not sure who manufactured your army tank single wrap springs, but I bet they are knocking the dentures right out of your head ???

You aren't kidding. It's brutal and I'm glad I don't have dentures because I guarantee polygrip won't hold them in......... maybe JB weld

 

[84lumberman]

Can someone post a picture of this caster shims? It was mention in my suspension thread, but I didn't understand what they are talking about. My new set up also seems to track the ruts, but I figured any tire/set up is stuck in the ruts no matter what one does.

 

[-MaTTi-]

anyone have a clue looking at these pics?

I’m 95% sure that is Rough Country 4” kit. Change the longer shackles to rear, the oem ones are too short but will be about fine in front. And buy these: Axle Degree Shims 2.5" Wide, 4 degree, steel wedge, caster pinion angle WFO 4.0 | eBay
+ pull a leaf out of each spring pack.

 

[84lumberman]

I’m 95% sure that is Rough Country 4” kit. Change the longer shackles to rear, the oem ones are too short but will be about fine in front. And buy these: Axle Degree Shims 2.5" Wide, 4 degree, steel wedge, caster pinion angle WFO 4.0 | eBay
+ pull a leaf out of each spring pack.

So you are saying to move my rear shackles to the front and the longer ones in front to the rear?
Then, use the shim you sent in the link and remove a leaf from the front?

Why remove a leaf? Softer ride? If I move the larger shackles to the rear why do I still need a shim?

 

[Pin_Head]

You would benefit by deciding what lift and spring rate you want first. Sort out the shackles and remove a spring leaf if the ride is harsh.

After that, then measure your caster angle by either taking it to the alignment shop or by measuring the angle of the front pinion flange. The stock angle for the pinion is 90 degrees when the frame is 0. This results in +1 degree of caster. Once you measure the caster you can get the proper shim.

 

[-MaTTi-]

So you are saying to move my rear shackles to the front and the longer ones in front to the rear?

Yes.

Then, use the shim you sent in the link and remove a leaf from the front?

Front and rear, rear is more important. The second lowest leaf.

Why remove a leaf? Softer ride? If I move the larger shackles to the rear why do I still need a shim?

These springs are very stiff, particularly the rear springs.

I measured that the caster is -1 or 0° with those front springs, with this amount of lift 4° would be much better and cost is minimal.

 

[FJBen]

@orangefj45 has steel shims. Cruiser brothers/Valley Hybrids.
I just put 4degrees on tracks great.

 

[-MaTTi-]

So are those in ebay, steel.

 

[orangefj45]

Yes we offer billet steel caster shims in 2, 4, 6 and 8 degree versions along with the spring center bolts.

Happy to help!

Georg
Valley Hybrids

shop 209-475-8808

 

[84lumberman]

I am changing all the tie ends since none of them have any rubber left on them oh, I'm rebuilding the center steering, I'm removing one leaf spring out of each spring, I'm installing shims in the front.

I decided not to switch the shackles for now so I can see if it's going to work like that