lift ride quality. 35s Icon Stage 1 (1 Viewer)

[RevFZJ80]

was able to check with some of the guys at the shop and off the bat they said its a castor problem, more castor needed. My rig is at 2.5 castor. Im now looking into delta arms, all techs agree that the delta arms will be the fix but my question is the icon castor bushings state that its a 4.6 degree. I know all vehicles arent the same but should I be off that much? also I did get another opinion and tech might have said the bushing coul've been installed wrong instead of pushing axle front to back vs up and down. I can post a pic to see what you guys think.

As far at the other bushings all are ok no flex/movement while preloaded in drive and reverse.

Thanks guys!

 

[MoJ]

was able to check with some of the guys at the shop and off the bat they said its a castor problem, more castor needed. My rig is at 2.5 castor. Im now looking into delta arms, all techs agree that the delta arms will be the fix but my question is the icon castor bushings state that its a 4.6 degree. I know all vehicles arent the same but should I be off that much? also I did get another opinion and tech might have said the bushing coul've been installed wrong instead of pushing axle front to back vs up and down. I can post a pic to see what you guys think.

As far at the other bushings all are ok no flex/movement while preloaded in drive and reverse.

Thanks guys!

That’s 4.6 degrees of correction, not 4.6 degrees caster reading. Your lift made the caster negative and the bushings brought it back within spec.

 

[RevFZJ80]

That’s 4.6 degrees of correction, not 4.6 degrees caster reading. Your lift made the caster negative and the bushings brought it back within spec.

ahh got it!

 

[RevFZJ80]

So right now we lowered tire psi to 32 and tracks better I was at 44.

 

[Box Rocket]

So right now we lowered tire psi to 32 and tracks better I was at 44.

yeah 44psi won’t help. Fwiw I run 28 psi.
I’d also have them verify the bushings are installed correctly since they don’t know for sure.

not to turn you away from Delta arms, they are very nice. But caster plates would take care of it if you’re looking to save a little

 

[Delta VS]

Kind of off topic, but still related to “squirrellyness” and steering. If I have adjustable panhard rods, would I still benefit from using the rear panhard lift bracket? Mine doesn’t quite handle that well. Wanders a little bit on the highway and doesn’t exactly have precision in turns, but maybe I’m expecting too much out of my 80 lol.

I'm not the authority on the subject, but I'll add my two cents anyways.

Yes, if you're lifted, you would still benefit from a panhard lift bracket. Lifting the truck creates two separate suspension problems 1) moves the axle to the passenger side when sitting at your new lifted ride height and 2) Creates more lateral movement in the rear axle when you drive over a bump and your suspension compresses or extends. Basically your rear axle moves more side to side than it would in a stock rig. An adjustable panhard bar corrects problem number one, but not problem number two. A panhard lift bracket actually fixes both problems.

Talking about the rear suspension here (is there a panhard lift for the front?)

Definitely off topic, but yes, a panhard lift bracket will help with squirrel-y-ness. Read about what @Heckraiser is talking about here (with bad drawings): Delta Vehicle Systems Panhard Lift Bracket, 3" & 5"

No, there is currently no solution for the front. A guy on Facebook has recently built himself a contraption, but don't know if he's going to sell it. Problem with the front is:

Front panhard is parallel with the steering linkage. if you make it NOT parallel, you will automatically be introducing bumpsteer. Above mentioned guy has made it happen by increasing the length of the front panhard and changing both upper and lower mounts. The upper mount looks like it gets pretty close to the tire from the pics I've seen. I'm sure it is helpful, but also likely expensive, and using rod-ends on the steering (which need to be replaced FAAAAARRRRR more often then TREs, etc, and get loose rill quick).

 

[RevFZJ80]

Definitely off topic, but yes, a panhard lift bracket will help with squirrel-y-ness. Read about what @Heckraiser is talking about here (with bad drawings): Delta Vehicle Systems Panhard Lift Bracket, 3" & 5"

No, there is currently no solution for the front. A guy on Facebook has recently built himself a contraption, but don't know if he's going to sell it. Problem with the front is:

Front panhard is parallel with the steering linkage. if you make it NOT parallel, you will automatically be introducing bumpsteer. Above mentioned guy has made it happen by increasing the length of the front panhard and changing both upper and lower mounts. The upper mount looks like it gets pretty close to the tire from the pics I've seen. I'm sure it is helpful, but also likely expensive, and using rod-ends on the steering (which need to be replaced FAAAAARRRRR more often then TREs, etc, and get loose rill quick).

I do have the Delta panhard bracket installed

 

[Delta VS]

I do have the Delta panhard bracket installed

good to know! I was responding to @wrxFTWdey 's question though.

 

[RevFZJ80]

I figured lol just didnt want anyone to miss i have it installed .

 

[lumbee1]

The midpoint of factory Toyota caster is 3*. Most folks push for 4* for even more stability. I drove my Cruiser for years with approximately 1* caster and even took a 4700 cross country trip. It is very possible that the bushings were damaged or installed incorrectly.

After performing a regear and axle job, I found that my Cruiser was uncontrollable and squirrely. I tried setting tow but nothing I did made any improvement. I committed to fixing caster by replacing my offset bushings with OEM, cut the front radius arm axle mounts off, and making new ones. While "pushing" out the bushings on the driver's side radius arm, the sleeve fell out on the first bushing and the poly fell out on the second bushing. Passenger side wasn't much better. I now have OEM bushings and 3* caster. It was just coincidence that the offset bushings went bad after the regear.

 

[landtank]

If you are at 2.5* of caster I would look somewhere else for a problem. Cracked frame at steering box, loose wheel bearings, pan hard mount on axle and frame, bad TRE and I’m sure other stuff.

 

[MoJ]

If you are at 2.5* of caster I would look somewhere else for a problem. Cracked frame at steering box, loose wheel bearings, pan hard mount on axle and frame, bad TRE and I’m sure other stuff.

I’d lean that way as well. Mine is 2.2* and although it could use some improvement I wouldn’t by any means call it shockingly bad. It’s enjoyable to drive but I am curious as to how plates or Delta control arms would improve it.

 

[RevFZJ80]

If you are at 2.5* of caster I would look somewhere else for a problem. Cracked frame at steering box, loose wheel bearings, pan hard mount on axle and frame, bad TRE and I’m sure other stuff.

All those are in good condition, after tire pressure was lower it rides good, still some wiggle but nothing like before... sheesh

 

[RevFZJ80]

I’d lean that way as well. Mine is 2.2* and although it could use some improvement I wouldn’t by any means call it shockingly bad. It’s enjoyable to drive but I am curious as to how plates or Delta control arms would improve it.

This! Same thought that comes to mind.