Let's talk about Hydroboost Brakes (1 Viewer)

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The hydroboost is also good if you still have a clutch. I know some vac boosters are too big and interfear with the slave.
 
So my old ford super duty service rig had all that hydroboost steering and brakes... one day while pushing thru the snow, the ps just stopped, then when I tried to stop, I couldn’t. No brakes and no steering. Not a good combo, eh? Turns out I busted the hydroboost cooler in the front of the rig with the heavy frozen snow. The juice left the system and the system took a nap. I, for one, won’t be marrying my brake assist to my steering assist, ever. Hope your system has a failsafe built in. Loosing one or the other would have been bad enough- and not always unavoidable- but loosing both is not an acceptable possibility to me...
 
Hope your system has a failsafe built in
Factory hydro boost systems are fairly reliable and have all the same failsafe’s in place that their vacuum counterparts have. Not unlike vacuum boosted brakes hydro boosted brakes still have a mechanical link between the pedal and master cylinder, you will not lose brakes you will only lose the pedal assist.
 
They do have some what of a fail safe. One style has a reserve can that's good for two or three pumps, helps you get stopped. The other style has an electric backup that will work if hydro goes out. I'm not too worried about total failures and my flawed thinking is they wouldn't use it on trucks if it was that prone to failures.
 
I hear ya guys, just my experience was scary enough that it is one of those things I’ll always be Leary of...
 
I had to flat tow my F350 (typical 6.0) the other day, brakes and steering weren’t really any worse then a normal rolling vehicle that’s not running, however that was all under 35mph and I was prepared.

I just finished up putting GM hydroboost in my FJ62. It’s not a 55, but conceptually it’s the same. Get any booster from any GM anything from 1980-2012 or so. Also, the booster in my Cruiser and the one in my F350 look identical, but I don’t know what years Ford did what.

I can dig up the part number for this master cylinder if you’d like, it’s a 2500 Express van IIRC but it’s a 1.125” bore where they are normally a 1.25” bore (too big). I haven’t driven it yet but from everyone I’ve talked to 1.125” works well with Cruiser brakes.

I am working on an LS conversion, so GM pump with PSC housing, and PSC remote reservoir setup.

There’s a guy who sells a universal mount plate on EBay for $25, definitely worth using rather then trying to use the original mount bracket. Way cleaner and easier.

I don’t know what a 55 pedal conection looks like but you will probably have to modify the pushrod. I had to cut mine and rethread it for M10x1.25.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

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Cruisermatt,

Did you buy a new hydroboost or just go used. I'd like to buy new rather used or rebuilt. Most places require a core, so might have to buy a used unit then replace.

On the mounting plate, are you talking about mounting to the firewall? That's the exact reservoir I have.
 
Hey Ron, I have an old Caddy hydroboost you can have for a core. We can figure out a way to get it to you.
 
Thanks Man, that's a great offer. I haven't dug any deeper into all this yet, just talking. When I find out how I'm going with everything I might take you up on that. A new one might not require a core?
 
Sorry man, I'm still getting educated. I'm trying to decide if I should wash her first. :)
 
I run a GM hydraboost on the FJ40. I'm still debating what to do with the pig.
 
I'd like to buy new rather used or rebuilt.

Ron,

I started down this same path and hit a few hurdles.

First I’ve read that most hydro boost units are similar but not exact so when you buy “rebuilt” from the auto parts dealers you can get a unit with mixed matched parts that may or may not give you issues. Next when you buy just the hydro boost unit you don’t get the output rod, piston return spring or the baffle and spring retainer, these parts can be hard to source on their own and vary from setup to setup, buying a complete used setup will save you a ton of time trying to figure out what exactly what you need. Several guys on the internet have already done the leg work and sell retro fit kits as a complete unit, they get big money for them but if you want all new or rebuilt parts this might be a good option.

Just as an FYI PSC had me drill out my Saginaw pump pressure relief to 3/32” “I believe” to increase flow when I added hydro boost to my system, I would call them and ask the exact size if for some reason I’m not remembering the size correctly.



These are some links I had saved when I cobbled my system together.

GM Universal : Tallon Hydraulics, Your Machine Shop!

Hydroboost Output Rod : Tallon Hydraulics, Your Machine Shop!



Hydroboost your FSJ, CJ/YJ, Commando, M715, Bronco, IH, S10, C3, FJ40 for $125+, TX - International Full Size Jeep Association



Tech: How to Swap a Junkyard Hyrdoboost on Your Classic GM Muscle Car or Truck



Hydroboost Rebuild Kit | Hydroboost Rebuild | Hydroboost Kit - Pirate Jack



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/a...line-sources-95-astro-van-hydroboost-1390577/



Custom Power Brake » Hydraulic Brake Booster Specs



Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum - View Single Post - Hydroboost info
 
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One of those links had a tidbit I didn't know. Originally I was looking for an Astrovan HB because I already had the Astro PS. When I went to the yard they had a few vans with the unit still in the car and 1) I didn't want to wait to take it off. 2) the mounting plate on the van angles down off the firewall. I ended up looking on a shelf with 50+ HB/MCs of various vehicles and decided on the GM 3500 unit.

That article mentioned that the astro HB would not run front and rear discs as well as what I ended up getting. So if that is your route, I would pull off a full size pickup.

Im telling you, $100 for the HB/MC and $30 for the proportioning valve. Almost free and it works like it was meant to be in my pig.
 
Thanks guys, I have some reading to do. Learning a lot in the past few days. Some of the GM online parts places are showing out of stock for the truck master cylinder. I'm thinking I should buy all the pieces together as you guys suggest, less for me to screw up.

I haven't called PSC yet and I didn't know I had to drill that out, so good heads up!

EDIT... Sorry, but just quickly read your post on drilling the "saginaw pump", I have the PSC pump so maybe I won't have to do that step, I'll call Monday.
 
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Saginaw is the pump manufacturer, PSC is the company that put their sicker on the can before they sold it to you.
 
Actually the PSC pump on my LS engine pig is some sort of high end pump that PSC puts new/ different guts in and calls their race pump so I really don't know what you have.
Best to call them and stop listening to me.
 
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