Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Update…still not cruising the land

…but I am getting close. Rear DS is full of new U-joints and back in place. That was a giant PITA. I firmly believe that the tool I used was not ideal. I was very happy to take my ball joint/u-joint press back to the Zone today. Maybe next time I’ll try a dedicated ujoint tool. But I’ll grease these religiously so they last 200k miles. No photos because I was against the clock a d trying not to drop the DS on my teeth.

I also did this today.View attachment 2914798

Special thanks to @MrMikeyG for photos of required trimming for 2nd battery tray. I used an oscillating trimmer and nibbled away at the tray till it fit. I could have left a bit more but it’s all bolted in and I’m happy.

Where’s the 2nd battery? Good question. I’m going to use this space as under hood secure storage until I do an aux battery in the future.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Glad I could help. I'm still debating a true 2nd battery setup which is why my parts are still in a box. Under hood storage does sound nice though.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Glad I could help. I'm still debating a true 2nd battery setup which is why my parts are still in a box. Under hood storage does sound nice though.

Well I can already tell you I like it.

 

[roflbox]

Here’s what I’ve come up with:View attachment 2908109L to R:

1. 5/8 id vinyl tubing with a brass barbed hose attachment coupled to a ball valve. Othe end has a 1/2” barbed coupler. This is my heater core flush inlet.
2. 2”x1” pvc reducer with ball valve and 3/4” female hose attacment. This is my block flush attachment I’ll utilize the factory hoses. I have a smaller 1 1/2” x 1” that wiill actually fit. This I think is too big for the inlet and outlet hoses on the block.
3. And a 5/8” id vinyl drain tube with a 1/2” coupling. I’ll use this to drain the heater core to a bucket. I have a dog. No need to accidentally poison her.

Hopefully this will keep the mess under control and let me flush throughly. With luck I can flush tomorrow.

How did that setup work? If it went well, I will make something similar
I know that mine is very likely due for a thorough cleaning.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Flushed!

My DIY cooling flush worked great. I unhooked the hoses from the radiator, removed the thermostat and flushed the block. I open the block drain which I replaced with one from Wits End (has a valves and hose outlet). I don’t have e photos but I also removed the brass u at e heater control and flushed that loop as well. Tomorrow I’ll fill with distilled water and run the engine as a final flush, while I get the timing figured outZ. The I’ll drain the distilled and fill with 50:50 Toyota red and Lagavulin….or maybe just distilled water.

I also got the new belts tensioned up. I used my nifty Burroughs style gauge.

The guage was a little bulky to use, but it’s easy to read and it’s clear when your using it right.

So close I can taste it…

 

[White Stripe]

Flushed!
View attachment 2915770


View attachment 2915771
My DIY cooling flush worked great. I unhooked the hoses from the radiator, removed the thermostat and flushed the block. I open the block drain which I replaced with one from Wits End (has a valves and hose outlet). I don’t have e photos but I also removed the brass u at e heater control and flushed that loop as well. Tomorrow I’ll fill with distilled water and run the engine as a final flush, while I get the timing figured outZ. The I’ll drain the distilled and fill with 50:50 Toyota red and Lagavulin….or maybe just distilled water.

I also got the new belts tensioned up. I used my nifty Burroughs style gauge. View attachment 2915784
View attachment 2915785
The guage was a little bulky to use, but it’s easy to read and it’s clear when your using it right.

So close I can taste it…

I've never seen a belt gauge like that.

 

[FMC80]

Greg, the new block drain you replaced doesn’t work on our blocks and will likely leak. Keep an eye out. The threads aren’t compatible.

 

[Dusten]

I've never seen a belt gauge like that.

Same.

We always just used these.

Pencil Tension Tester | Gates Corporation

Our selections of time-saving tools are a technician’s best friend and a facility manager’s trusted companion. Gates professional tools offer simple solutions for quick onsite and equipment inspection, maintenance and repairs, backed by the Gates guarantee of world-class quality and reliable...

www.gates.com

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Greg, the new block drain you replaced doesn’t work on our blocks and will likely leak. Keep an eye out. The threads aren’t compatible.

Say what?

I've never seen a belt gauge like that.

Same.

We always just used these.

Pencil Tension Tester | Gates Corporation

Our selections of time-saving tools are a technician’s best friend and a facility manager’s trusted companion. Gates professional tools offer simple solutions for quick onsite and equipment inspection, maintenance and repairs, backed by the Gates guarantee of world-class quality and reliable...

www.gates.com

We’ll I’ve never owned a belt tension gauge before so I used the FSM to guide my purchase. The Burroughs style one was the only one I could find. Seemed straight forward to use.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Greg, the new block drain you replaced doesn’t work on our blocks and will likely leak. Keep an eye out. The threads aren’t compatible.

So doing some research. Looks like some run this without issue? I can’t find clarity between the various threads…(see what I did there?) but there are a few where threads are marred and lots of discussion between BPT and Metric?

I think I’ll roll the dice. It was super nice to drain from during the flush. But I have the block drain too incase it’s sucks, but I hope not.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Update:
Truck is filled with distilled H2O and I just attempted staring it for the first time since November…and no joy. So now I’m trouble shooting. I think it’s fuel related, since I had the fuel rail out to do the injectors, I’m looking through the trouble shooting guide. I had a feeling things might not go super smoothly.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok looks like there may be different threadings on the 1FZ-FE block drain by year. The question is about cross compatibility for mine and this petcock style plug.

Post #35

The hearsay of the iH8mud inter webs says that this valve style drain plug was supplied on early 1FZ-FE…but I have my doubts. Now that the rig is full of distilled H2O I can’t compare the threads personally, but I suspect my brass plug was the original part. I do have enough coolant to refill twice if it indeed does leak.

@FMC80 did you find others who experienced the same issues? Did you talk with Joey at Wit’s or learn more about differences between years in terms of how the blocks are threaded?

I’m not trying to stir the pot, I’d just like to learn from the benefit of your research/ knowledge (and I’d hate to waste a bunch of expensive Toyota coolant.)

 

[FMC80]

Ok looks like there may be different threadings on the 1FZ-FE block drain by year. The question is about cross compatibility for mine and this petcock style plug.

Post #35

The hearsay of the iH8mud inter webs says that this valve style drain plug was supplied on early 1FZ-FE…but I have my doubts. Now that the rig is full of distilled H2O I can’t compare the threads personally, but I suspect my brass plug was the original part. I do have enough coolant to refill twice if it indeed does leak.

@FMC80 did you find others who experienced the same issues? Did you talk with Joey at Wit’s or learn more about differences between years in terms of how the blocks are threaded?

I’m not trying to stir the pot, I’d just like to learn from the benefit of your research/ knowledge (and I’d hate to waste a bunch of expensive Toyota coolant.)

I experienced a leak. Searched around, SNLC broke it down in another thread about how they’re different between the old vs new style blocks.
I believe it was @whitesheep who also had an issue with the same thing.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Update:

Unfortunately, I can’t get the truck to start. Struggling to determine what the issue is (also struggling to make time). I thought it was fuel related since the injectors we’re out and fuel rail was dry, but it’s hard to tell because the battery depleted after trying to start the engine. It’s sitting on a trickle charger now.

My scattered thread reading kinda freaked me out. Is it low compression since it sat with no oil for so long? Did I install the distributor wrong even though I was following the FSM? Is there a fuel issue related to my new injector connectors?

So trying to start at square 1. I have a CEL with the key in On.

Waiting on the trickle charger.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok I was able to test for fuel pressure by running a jumper in the diagnostic port with B+ and FP. I confirmed that fuel is flowing through the return line on the fuel pump as well as the fuel pressure regulator. So it seems like fuel isn’t the issue.

So on to spark. I did just replace every component of the spark system….new Toyota plugs (I checked gaps were at .30). New plug wires, new distributor cap and rotor. New coil. Hmm.

I did locate the FSM spark test procedure, but I’ve run out of time, and I’m learning as I go so it’s painfully slow around here. I may have put the tiny cable off of the battery ground wire to the wrong hole. I’ll check that too. More tomorrow.

 

[ppc]

Sounds like you could have the distributor 180 degrees out.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Sounds like you could have the distributor 180 degrees out.

I guess it’s totally possible. This is my first time having the VC off and the Distributor out. I did follow the FSM: checked the checked the dots aligned, but I absolutely could have gotten it confused. I’ll pursue this if I confirm spark.

Edit: I checked the camshaft dots we’re aligned as well as the mark on the distributor gear.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Wow, I’m not being very clear tonight. I’m gonna go have a beer and watch the Olympics with my kids. Tomorrow I’ll try again.

 

[MrMikeyG]

I wish I had more experince to help you with this one, but if I were in your position,I'd be running down the troubleshooting tree just like you are.
Would a fusible link issue cause a non-start anyone? Low hanging fruit and all of that.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I wish I had more experince to help you with this one, but if I were in your position,I'd be running down the troubleshooting tree just like you are.
Would a fusible link issue cause a non-start anyone? Low hanging fruit and all of that.

Yes. Good thinking. I put a new one on during this bout of work. Zero miles on it.