Let's baseline my grandma's neglected, (20 year old to us) 1997 LX450 (4 Viewers)

[avdeveloper]

I picked it up earlier tonight. She starts up again! But I noticed a couple of new gremlins: there is no light on the right side of the speedometer and the signal lights are not blinking.

at idle on park, the engine runs at 1900 RPM even when the coolant has already warmed up. when on Drive, the idle is at 900-1000rpm.

when I slow to a stop, the downshifts are way too rough.

I have a feeling that I may not have replaced the throttle cable at the correct position that's why the idle is so high?

How would i know if the cause of the issue is the kick down cable?

Lastly, when i picked it up the engine oil was so low. I waited 8 mins for it to cool down and it was at that level. I filled it back up at a nearby gas station.

 

[avdeveloper]

Ok after adjusting the throttle cable to give it a bit more slack, the idle speed has now gone down to normal range (around 630 RPM). I also got a check engine light with P0401 EGR insufficient flow code but I fixed that too by realizing that I forgot to plug the vacuum hose between EGR valve and air intake chamber.

I reviewed the circuit diagram to find out why my turn signals are not working and it looks like the cause could be because I didn't plug the hazard light switch back in.

 

[avdeveloper]

Ok I looked in the dashboard and found out the guys didn't reconnect the harness connected to the hazard lights, antenna and defogger.

Turn signals work now!

 

[avdeveloper]

@DirtyPepper my AC is not turning to AC. only the heater is working. sound familiar?

 

[avdeveloper]

A project as yours will never end. Pick the most important issues and move on from there. It can be the most fun and challenge you might experience. There is more information than you can imagine here. Just use the search box and wear it out. Ask questions and you will find kind experts on just about all subjects and issues.

Good luck and keep up with this site. It's addictive so be careful.

months into the project now and I keep finding more and more things to do to catch up on maintenance

 

[DirtyPepper]

@DirtyPepper my AC is not turning to AC. only the heater is working. sound familiar?

Yep.

Apologies in advance for the rambling...

So, after being at the shop, and them pulling the dash completely apart and testing wires (some had no power) AND an AC Control Panel I picked up not working...a relay in the PS dash behind the glovebox was found not working...but this didn't correct the problem - it was part and parcel. The AC Switch (Up near the battery) was replaced but it was bad from the factory...the ac control panel had to be pulled from a donor cruiser AND, the temperature control switch (DS connector at the block) was connected...but that shouldn't have caused it. I guess it's the connector/switch that tells the system if the engine is overheating and when it hits 227 degrees F, the AC cuts out. Connected, the AC wouldn't work but disconnected, and with a new AC switch, the AC did work...which stumped the techs because the switch being connected shouldn't have effected anything.

So, I'm sitting with a new AC switch, a new relay, a donor cruiser AC control panel (The other which was sent to me didn't have polarity between switches), and a few wires given power, I have AC again.


But I still have a number of electrical gremlins.
And a higher priority to replace the windshield gasket. Womp-Womp.

 

[2JG]

I just got my undercarriage sprayed with layers of woolwax. The guys took the time to give a courtesy inspection of the engine bay and drivetrain and for the most part everything is all right. The only things I have to add to my list are to replace the rear shocks because they're rusted off and the boot is already gone. There is a hose along the firewall that's not even connected to anything. The frame is still in good condition; no holes anywhere. Still solid frame.

I'll take pictures when it gets dry outside. It's been raining this weekend.

I'm in NY and looking for someone who does Woolwax. Where did you go and were you happy with the job?

 

[avdeveloper]

I'm in NY and looking for someone who does Woolwax. Where did you go and were you happy with the job?

I went to east end undercoating in long island. It's not as pretty as having them painted, and it gets very messy early on. I got them on my clothes from from touching the door because they sprayed them inside and out. I'm going back next year for another round. So far the woolwax has stayed on.

East End Undercoating
(631) 500-0187

https://maps.app.goo.gl/sY7NAY4Zb9AGrryJ9

 

[bhsdriller]

Did I miss it, what did the shop fix or what was the issue

 

[avdeveloper]

Did I miss it, what did the shop fix or what was the issue

they fixed a wire in the dashboard that was touching ground.

 

[avdeveloper]

OK my brother's and I went for a 30 mile drive and within 3 miles from getting home, she started sputtering at the traffic light. I pressed the gas pedal and it didn't accelerate. I tried turning off the truck and then starting her back up again a few seconds later (that fixed it last time I ran into the same issue) and it just cranked but didn't start.

I had to get it towed back home and the same guy who towed her to the shop came and recognized me again right away.

I thought it ran out of fuel but after filling her up with 2 gallons, she still didn't start up.

I have a few theories and next steps when I get back from a 3 week vacation abroad:

1. Is the EFI relay bad? I read that the symptoms with this bad relay would be if it stops sending fuel when the relay gets warm but when it's cool again it will start. This may not be the cause.

2. Is the fuel filter below the intake plenum already way too clogged? This has not been replaced AFAIK. I still have to perform the replacement.

3. Is the fuel filter connected to the fuel pump too clogged or could there be something else around the fuel sending unit causing the issue?

4. I haven't tried spraying starter fluid into the throttle body (?) and seeing if she will start. If it does, that means the spark plugs are firing?

5. Could corrosion in or around the distributor to the spark plug connectors or the center wire connected to the distributor be causing an issue?

6. Is there another electrical gremlin? Could my alternator be faulty? Would a loose or overly tightened drive belt cause an issue? I noticed what sounded like an alternator whine when I accelerate at low speeds. My OBDII is saying that the battery voltage is at 14V when engine is running.

 

[gummycarbs]

@avdeveloper I partially skimmed the thread and didn't see any evidence that you've pulled the throttle body and upper intake off for cleaning. Have you? There are a bunch of hoses under there *all* of which need to be replaced. There are several vacuum circuits all of which have to be in good condition for the engine to run properly. Small leaks add up fast.

Don't get caught up in trying to reverse engineer the vehicle when you haven't finished baselining it yet.

 

[avdeveloper]

@avdeveloper I partially skimmed the thread and didn't see any evidence that you've pulled the throttle body and upper intake off for cleaning. Have you? There are a bunch of hoses under there *all* of which need to be replaced. There are several vacuum circuits all of which have to be in good condition for the engine to run properly. Small leaks add up fast.

Don't get caught up in trying to reverse engineer the vehicle when you haven't finished baselining it yet.

yeah I only got up to pull the throttle body off to clean but didn't get the chance to remove the plenum and replace the valve cover gasket yet with the spark plugs, connectors, distributor kit. It does seem like I'll have to get back to finishing that once I get back from abroad in 3 weeks

 

[gummycarbs]

yeah I only got up to pull the throttle body off to clean but didn't get the chance to remove the plenum and replace the valve cover gasket yet with the spark plugs, connectors, distributor kit. It does seem like I'll have to get back to finishing that once I get back from abroad in 3 weeks

You'll want to pull the upper intake, clear all the carbon out, replace all the vacuum (and one coolant) hoses, and test the VSV and vacuum check valve. Guitar string can help with clearing the passages, but just soaking in Simple Green for a few hours did most of the work for me.

There's a Dorman VSV that you can use, but you need to shave down a plastic ridge. I did it to test whether it fixed my problems, intending to replace with a genuine Toyota VSV at some point, but it's behaved flawlessly since then (2017ish).

Have you tested the EGR modulator? When the membrane inside blows, it allows carbon into the rest of the system.

 

[avdeveloper]

You'll want to pull the upper intake, clear all the carbon out, replace all the vacuum (and one coolant) hoses, and test the VSV and vacuum check valve. Guitar string can help with clearing the passages, but just soaking in Simple Green for a few hours did most of the work for me.

There's a Dorman VSV that you can use, but you need to shave down a plastic ridge. I did it to test whether it fixed my problems, intending to replace with a genuine Toyota VSV at some point, but it's behaved flawlessly since then (2017ish).

Have you tested the EGR modulator? When the membrane inside blows, it allows carbon into the rest of the system.

I've only been able to test the VSV for EGR, EGR modulator and they are working as intended. the egr valve is new. I haven't been able to take out the VSV for fuel pressure yet.

I'll resume the baselining when I get back. Once the plenum is off, does it make it easier to replace the fuel filter, water bypass hose to throttle body and PHH?

 

[gummycarbs]

Once the plenum is off, does it make it easier to replace the fuel filter, water bypass hose to throttle body and PHH?

Probably on the fuel filter, definitely on the bypass hose, maybe on the PHH.

I didn't think the PHH was that hard. Remove the knock sensors so you don't break their connectors like I did. Use a reversible ratcheting wrench to remove the (upper?) bolt for the PHH tube (hardest part, by far) and replace the whole thing with Gates hose.

 

[avdeveloper]

Probably on the fuel filter, definitely on the bypass hose, maybe on the PHH.

I didn't think the PHH was that hard. Remove the knock sensors so you don't break their connectors like I did. Use a reversible ratcheting wrench to remove the (upper?) bolt for the PHH tube (hardest part, by far) and replace the whole thing with Gates hose.

I'm half expecting to break the connector once I try to unplug it. Wits end has the connector I can use to replace it though. I might as well give it a try.

 

[gummycarbs]

I'm half expecting to break the connector once I try to unplug it.

I've had good luck with unplugging my connectors. I always push them together before pressing down on the release. Maybe give them a few wiggles before anything, and if there's grit that might block the release hook, I'll spray it with brake or electronic cleaner. Maybe even follow with a toothbrush.

Actually disassembling the connectors to replace the housings is another story. I've mangled every one that I've tried, while the brand new housing clicks open and closed with ease.

If you do break the knock sensor connector, worst case you just have an *extremely* sluggish vehicle and a check engine light while you wait for replacement parts.

 

[DirtyPepper]

Probably on the fuel filter, definitely on the bypass hose, maybe on the PHH.

I didn't think the PHH was that hard. Remove the knock sensors so you don't break their connectors like I did. Use a reversible ratcheting wrench to remove the (upper?) bolt for the PHH tube (hardest part, by far) and replace the whole thing with Gates hose.

Thankfully, the shop said my PHH and fuel filter "Looks to have been replaced around, say, a little more than 20k miles ago..." which means they were replaced probably the weekend/month before I picked her up (I've put 20k miles on in 7 years). Shop said the filter, as it's OEM wouldn't need to come out and the PHH still looked brand new (Green Stripe).

 

[avdeveloper]

Hello! It's been a while since I've last updated this thread but I have not stopped working on it. I've just been too busy back and forth different mechanics. I'll post more details and update the parts post on the first page to see what else I've spent on this money pit.

But to give a brief update on what's been done since I got back from abroad in November:

1. The mechanic I took it to said that the spark plugs were flooded. So they replaced the spark plugs, connectors, and distributor cap. And that resolved the issue.
2. After a few weeks I took it to the dealership for oil change and they found an issue water puddling up on the driver side floor. They informed me of it but didn't proceed any further I diagnosing it because it would cost more time. I will have to deal with this soon.
3. On my way home from the dealership, the AC compressor died and blew a 20 amp fuse so the instrument cluster died and I couldn't tell how fast I was going. I had it towed to the previous mechanic who resolved the issue by replacing the fuse and cutting off the drive belt for the AC compressor. I will get a new one installed by summer.
4. Less than a week after I got this resolved, I got a new CEL for P0171 (lean code). I went to a different mechanic who was closer to my house and via smoke test, they found that my EGR valve had a vacuum leak. I brought it back home and tested myself after getting a smoke machine and confirmed that the diaphragm was leaking air. I bought a replacement EGR valve and gasket.
5. I tried to replace it myself but when screwing the nut back to the studs, I cross threaded the stud connecting to the intake plenum. Since I'm inexperienced at fixing the thread hole with a helicoil, I took it to the mechanic to install it. That fixed the P0171 code.
6. The mechanic that diagnosed the faulty EGR valve also found that the front wheel bearings on both sides had play so I wanted to get that replaced. I brought the truck to a 4x4 specific shop to see if they could do the job for me. They came back with a quote to replace all of the suspensions in the car for 6k parts and labor. (new shocks and springs, track bar, stabilizer, control arms). I took it back and decides I'll just replace the wheel bearings myself, then replace the rest over the summer.

So the next project I will post is on the work to replace the front wheel bearings. I bought the kit already but need to buy a couple more tools to get the job done: snap ring pliers and a 54mm socket.