Let's baseline my grandma's neglected, (20 year old to us) 1997 LX450

[FMC80]

I've been following your thread. You seem to have a great attitude despite what appears to me to be death by a thousand papercuts. That comes with the territory, though, doesn't it? You seem to have many mechanics/shop options near you, which is cool too. I don't have many options by me in terms of anyone I trust to work on my LC. I work on my cruiser, even though I am a novice mechanic at best. It's a good idea to tackle the wheel bearings and birfs yourself. Besides the fact that it's a rite of passage, you'll build confidence in your wrenching abilities because these are straightforward machines. Then you can tackle the suspension, which is also really easy, but it takes patience and know-how that this forum delivers in spades. I assume, in your case, time is the common denominator that keeps you from wrenching and learning vs. the desire or logistics to do it.

 

[60 toy ota]

What a lousy 4x4 shop. 6k in bolt on parts that didn't even address the original problem?
Good on you for getting the parts and diving in yourself. Glad to see you've got the motivation on this

 

[AgentOrange]

It's good to see someone willing to go through one of these really well. And the front bearing job is actually enjoyable for me. Watching for what comes next!

 

[avdeveloper]

thanks all ^

I will be doing the axle rebuild when it gets warmer. I did find this thread about sunroof drains being clogged. It looks like the pictures in the post have expired so I'll do a bit more digging to see if I can follow from the description.

Thread 'Cleaning your sunroof drains FAQ' Cleaning your sunroof drains FAQ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cleaning-your-sunroof-drains-faq.179613/

My issue is on the driver side and rear but I might as well unclog all of the drains just to be safe.

 

[DirtyPepper]

thanks all ^

I will be doing the axle rebuild when it gets warmer. I did find this thread about sunroof drains being clogged. It looks like the pictures in the post have expired so I'll do a bit more digging to see if I can follow from the description.

Thread 'Cleaning your sunroof drains FAQ' Cleaning your sunroof drains FAQ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cleaning-your-sunroof-drains-faq.179613/

My issue is on the driver side and rear but I might as well unclog all of the drains just to be safe.

Yeah, my glass shop proved the new OEM gasket wasn't leaking...it's the sunroof...either the drains or the seal is bad.
Thankfully, she's going into an auto electrical shop next friday and HOPEFULLY, it's not going to be too expensive.

Ultimately, I'll clear the drains to be safe, and the pan...then replace all the gaskets; doors and sunroof, back hatch and back glass.
I'll need to make sure there's no more water intrusion as I want to put in sound deadening and a new carpet at the end of the summer.

All the build things I WANT to keep having things jump above them, but...that's part of baselining, right?

 

[avdeveloper]

Yeah, my glass shop proved the new OEM gasket wasn't leaking...it's the sunroof...either the drains or the seal is bad.
Thankfully, she's going into an auto electrical shop next friday and HOPEFULLY, it's not going to be too expensive.

Ultimately, I'll clear the drains to be safe, and the pan...then replace all the gaskets; doors and sunroof, back hatch and back glass.
I'll need to make sure there's no more water intrusion as I want to put in sound deadening and a new carpet at the end of the summer.

All the build things I WANT to keep having things jump above them, but...that's part of baselining, right?

yup, gotta get these things taken care of first before it gets to have the fun stuff. replacing the weatherstripping is so expensive and boring though

 

[avdeveloper]

Here is the driver side floor. It's very damp and there's a puddle of water at the edge where the door shuts closed. From reading the other thread on here, it sounds like the sunroof drains are clogged. As soon as the temperature rises back into the high 40s, I'll go and inspect it.

I'll go and take care of replacing both front wheel bearings since there's play at 12 and 6 o'clock and I notice that the truck pulls to one side when braking.

 

[avdeveloper]

ok! I didn't have time to get started on the wheel bearings but I did get to find the clogged sunroof drain and unclog it. It was clogged by fallen leaves.

 

[avdeveloper]

Last week I started replacing the front wheel bearings. The driver side went smoothly. The passenger side was pretty rough. First, I found that it's missing the innermost lock nut on the outer wheel bearing side so I had to order and wait for the parts to arrive, which just arrived today. Earlier today as I was replacing the wheel bearing seal on the inner bearing side, the seal looks like it won't even be able to be tapped in. I tried to use a bearing race driver but that didn't work.

I wonder if I warped the hub, which would set me back 272$ for a new replacement, or it's a defective bearing seal that came from the kit. I ordered a new bearing seal from the dealership, which should arrive by Friday.

Fingers crossed its just a defective seal. Otherwise I'll have to buy a new hub...

 

[avdeveloper]

Update, I created a backlog of things I want to do to restore the lexus on Notion. If you want to check it out, you can visit this link here

Suggestions and questions are welcome on the comments section.

 

[DirtyPepper]

Update, I created a backlog of things I want to do to restore the lexus on Notion. If you want to check it out, you can visit this link here

Suggestions and questions are welcome on the comments section.

Great list!
I made mine in a spreadsheet.

If you're interested, we can compare notes.

I noticed your Light update...I pulled this information from a deep MUD post on the interior bulb updates to LED...The noted Bulb is listed and then its corresponding LED from the site

 

[DirtyPepper]

Update, I created a backlog of things I want to do to restore the lexus on Notion. If you want to check it out, you can visit this link here

Suggestions and questions are welcome on the comments section.

And for the Knuckle Front End rebuild...Parts above the orange line...miscellaneoous cleaning supplies below.

 

[avdeveloper]

And for the Knuckle Front End rebuild...Parts above the orange line...miscellaneoous cleaning supplies below.

View attachment 3249322

awesome. I'll fill out my notes with those if I missed any. Have you checked out the Knuckle rebuild kit sold on cruiserteq? It should match with the ones you listed on here right?

Send over your spreadsheet so I can copy and paste.

 

[avdeveloper]

Welp, I finally finished replacing the front wheel bearings on both sides. I waited 4 days for the missing lock nut only to find out that the shop who replaced my rotors years ago put it on the outermost side instead of right after the outer wheel bearing

I took it for its annual safety and emissions inspection and... It FAILED!

Actually it's already old so it doesn't require emissions inspection so . It failed the safety inspection because the piston siezed on the passenger side caliper. No wonder the truck would pull to the side when braking.

It looks like I have a choice of whether to just buy the caliper rebuild kit or buy an entirely new caliper...

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Welp, I finally finished replacing the front wheel bearings on both sides. I waited 4 days for the missing lock nut only to find out that the shop who replaced my rotors years ago put it on the outermost side instead of right after the outer wheel bearing

I took it for its annual safety and emissions inspection and... It FAILED!

Actually it's already old so it doesn't require emissions inspection so . It failed the safety inspection because the piston siezed on the passenger side caliper. No wonder the truck would pull to the side when braking.

It looks like I have a choice of whether to just buy the caliper rebuild kit or buy an entirely new caliper...

Great thread! I’ve work being methodical, especially with the electrical issues.

As per the seized calipers— The rebuild kits are obviously available, but dealing with a seized piston may be tricky. I encountered this a few years back and replaced with NAPA ones, as I couldn’t get my caliper pistons to come loose.

Keep up the great work!

 

[DirtyPepper]

Welp, I finally finished replacing the front wheel bearings on both sides. I waited 4 days for the missing lock nut only to find out that the shop who replaced my rotors years ago put it on the outermost side instead of right after the outer wheel bearing

I took it for its annual safety and emissions inspection and... It FAILED!

Actually it's already old so it doesn't require emissions inspection so . It failed the safety inspection because the piston siezed on the passenger side caliper. No wonder the truck would pull to the side when braking.

It looks like I have a choice of whether to just buy the caliper rebuild kit or buy an entirely new caliper...

If you haven't yet, you might want to consider updating the brakes to 100 series in the rear and 80 series up front. A lot of members do this change and it seems to be a real good swap. The 100 series pads have a lot more surface area for the pad. Swap out the caliper with a new one from NAPA, as mentioned)...Personally, I'd prefer the peace of mind with new calipers on each side.

 

[FMC80]

If you haven't yet, you might want to consider updating the brakes to 100 series in the rear and 80 series up front. A lot of members do this change and it seems to be a real good swap. The 100 series pads have a lot more surface area for the pad. Swap out the caliper with a new one from NAPA, as mentioned)...Personally, I'd prefer the peace of mind with new calipers on each side.

Are you talking about 100 series pads or calipers? Haven’t read about people putting 100 series calipers on their 80 series. I have heard about using 100 series pads for 80 series which I have read enough to say I don’t agree is worth the time or effort.

I agree, new calipers is the way to go for both sides and rebuild the set off your cruiser and set them on the shelf for next go round.

 

[DirtyPepper]

Are you talking about 100 series pads or calipers? Haven’t read about people putting 100 series calipers on their 80 series. I have heard about using 100 series pads for 80 series which I have read enough to say I don’t agree is worth the time or effort.

I agree, new calipers is the way to go for both sides and rebuild the set off your cruiser and set them on the shelf for next go round.

Nah, I meant the pads
I didn't clarify that...my mistake.

 

[avdeveloper]

If you haven't yet, you might want to consider updating the brakes to 100 series in the rear and 80 series up front. A lot of members do this change and it seems to be a real good swap. The 100 series pads have a lot more surface area for the pad. Swap out the caliper with a new one from NAPA, as mentioned)...Personally, I'd prefer the peace of mind with new calipers on each side.

Oh I thought the 100 series brake pads were also for the front. ok I'll get the 80 series one for the front. I will be changing the rotors as part of the rebuild since the brake pads on the rear are still not worn.

I didn't read about the NAPA calipers. that's on the sticky thread on brakes on this forum right? I'll go check it out and save me some money

 

[FMC80]

Oh I thought the 100 series brake pads were also for the front. ok I'll get the 80 series one for the front. I will be changing the rotors as part of the rebuild since the brake pads on the rear are still not worn.

I didn't read about the NAPA calipers. that's on the sticky thread on brakes on this forum right? I'll go check it out and save me some money

People use the 100 series pads for the front too.

Napa calipers used to be good and had a solid rep. Nowadays I think it’s hit or miss.

Check out mcgeorge Toyota. They have brand new OEM calipers on sale Shipped for around $150. @flintknapper just bought a set iirc.