For $10, well maybe $20 now, you can buy a length of fuel line and and cheap fuel filter and make your own extended axle breather instead of buying the overpriced ARB kit.
Leaking 3rd member, blown out bushings, ground birf... How Fun!
- Thread starter BostonCruiser96
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- 1996 birf fj80 80 series leak swivel hub
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For $10, well maybe $20 now, you can buy a length of fuel line and and cheap fuel filter and make your own extended axle breather instead of buying the overpriced ARB kit.
- Thread starter
- #22
Well, the good news of the day is that the knuckle is still tapped with m12-1.50 so new studs are being ordered to reinstall. Do not need a new knuckle which is a plus. Full tear-down time, will keep yall posted on progress. Ty for the input gents!
Ordering...
cruiserteq.com
8x Series Knuckle Rebuild Kit - Fits 8x 1/1990-1/1998 80/81 Series & LX450 - https://cruiserteq.com/8x-series-knuckle-rebuild-kit-fits-8x-1-1990-1-1998-80-81-series-lx450/ with Koyo bearings
cruiserteq.com
1/4 in., 3/8 in. Drive Impact E-Socket Set, 7-Piece - https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-38-in-drive-impact-e-socket-set-7-piece-67898.html to set new studs
ARB breather kit
3 quarts of 80w-90 gear oil
3x 1lb tub STP moly-ep grease
Ordering...
Knuckle Stud Set - OEM Toyota - Pack of 8 - Fits 1/1979 - 1997 (KS7997KSET)
Toyota Land Cruiser Knuckle Hardware
cruiserteq.com
Differential Gasket - Fits 8" Non E-Locker Applications (DG35010)
Differential Gasket For Toyota Land Cruiser Applications
cruiserteq.com
ARB breather kit
3 quarts of 80w-90 gear oil
3x 1lb tub STP moly-ep grease
Your a real Man
When I pulled mine it was more like controlled dissent. Tell it hit the floor.
Luckily, I had two layers of cardboard down there.
I second Cruiser outfitters for your parts needs
Knowledgeable sales staff, competitive pricing and super fast shipping.
Knowledgeable sales staff, competitive pricing and super fast shipping.
On the differential gasket, you my want to consider OEM. Verify what you get but that looks like a cheap paper gasket in which case I would also use a Permatex Form-a-gasket.Well, the good news of the day is that the knuckle is still tapped with m12-1.50 so new studs are being ordered to reinstall. Do not need a new knuckle which is a plus. Full tear-down time, will keep yall posted on progress. Ty for the input gents!
Ordering...
8x Series Knuckle Rebuild Kit - Fits 8x 1/1990-1/1998 80/81 Series & LX450 - https://cruiserteq.com/8x-series-knuckle-rebuild-kit-fits-8x-1-1990-1-1998-80-81-series-lx450/ with Koyo bearingsKnuckle Stud Set - OEM Toyota - Pack of 8 - Fits 1/1979 - 1997 (KS7997KSET)
Toyota Land Cruiser Knuckle Hardware
1/4 in., 3/8 in. Drive Impact E-Socket Set, 7-Piece - https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-38-in-drive-impact-e-socket-set-7-piece-67898.html to set new studsDifferential Gasket - Fits 8" Non E-Locker Applications (DG35010)
Differential Gasket For Toyota Land Cruiser Applications
ARB breather kit
3 quarts of 80w-90 gear oil
3x 1lb tub STP moly-ep grease
The OEM gasket is metal that's sandwiched between two paper layers.
LOL, I think I just got lucky that my forearm was long enough to match the height of the axle off the floor.Your a real Man
When I pulled mine it was more like controlled dissent. Tell it hit the floor.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
@BostonCruiser96 also buy a 54mm hub nut socket if you don't have one.
Pretty sure cruiserteq would have them.
And do some searching on setting wheel bearing preload
Pretty sure cruiserteq would have them.
And do some searching on setting wheel bearing preload
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- Thread starter
- #28
as far as that video states if you don't mess with it, should stay set correctly...
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
You cannot do a knuckle rebuild properly, and not have to set preload on wheel bearings
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Edited my post above to say "54mm hub nut socket", not sticker
You may not need a spring tension guage for preload but you do need a 54mm socket, the video you linked says the same.
I propably just a whoosy.
But I'll tell you what, having a couple hernias repaired over the last few years makes me re-think the brute force and ingnorance path.
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
That video is a pretty decent guide for a backyard garage dude.
IMNSHO he goes wrong at 55:30 mark when preloading the wheel bearings, backing off the nut, and torquing to 4lbs.
He says " we're gonna go by feel", but doesn't say what your feeling for. So leaves it at 4lb.
You can't feel preload on the bearings anyway! The first step where he torqued the hub nut to 45lb, then rotated the hub, it rotated just s freely as it does with 4lb torque.
In my experience, those wheel bearings will be loose after 2-3000 miles.
Where he retorques to 4lb, torque to 20-30 lb. 20lb for stock size tires, 30lb for 33"s or bigger.
Then fit your star tab washer, and 2nd nut. Torque second nut to 45lb. Lock/ bend the tabs in both directions ( in and out)
- Thread starter
- #34
Fantastic, noted! Thank you
- Thread starter
- #35
is this a viable substitute?
The type of grease required is listed in the FSM.
Yes, it will work as its a NLGI Li soap base with added Moly.
Yes, it will work as its a NLGI Li soap base with added Moly.
- Thread starter
- #37
Thanks, guys! The support is much appreciated! Parts coming in by Wednesday, tear down this weekend. She'll be sitting until then.
Yes.
A breather consists of basically 3 parts; 1 cap, 1 spring, and 'the rest'.
You're looking for free travel of the cap on the spring, both down and up, under pressure and vacuum. Relative to 'the rest' of which it is connected.
Also ensure the associated hose and axle-mount connector is free and clear.
Compared to a class-8 (heavy duty) third member, the 80's (light duty) third is practically featherweight and one arm-able.
- Thread starter
- #39
Okay gents, please weigh in. Pulled the passenger axle out, in two pieces. separation at the birf, looks like the snap ring is a little loose. Is this normal?
The passenger side is my problem side. Pics attached are of the top of the housing, showing gouging on the axle bell and the top of the housing. Is a new axle a good precaution? Or would all new bearings get it riding right and shouldn't have this be an issue?
Thanks!
The passenger side is my problem side. Pics attached are of the top of the housing, showing gouging on the axle bell and the top of the housing. Is a new axle a good precaution? Or would all new bearings get it riding right and shouldn't have this be an issue?
Thanks!
Look like you might be O.K.
The birf can cleaned up with a file on the outer edge to remove any pieces that are loose or will easily fall away.
The knuckle: the abraded area doesn't look like it penetrated the bearing seat surface. If that's the case, just press in new bearings and rebuild as normal. If the bearing seat area was chewed away, you'll probably want a new axel.
The other thing to look at is the ABS sensor and ring. With the birf pushed off center, the censor ring may have chewed on the ABS sensor ring.
The birf can cleaned up with a file on the outer edge to remove any pieces that are loose or will easily fall away.
The knuckle: the abraded area doesn't look like it penetrated the bearing seat surface. If that's the case, just press in new bearings and rebuild as normal. If the bearing seat area was chewed away, you'll probably want a new axel.
The other thing to look at is the ABS sensor and ring. With the birf pushed off center, the censor ring may have chewed on the ABS sensor ring.
