You need to look inside the spindle, there’s a brass or needle bearing that keep the axle/birfild centered.
Leaking 3rd member, blown out bushings, ground birf... How Fun! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BostonCruiser96
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- 1996 birf fj80 80 series leak swivel hub
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Is the bell cracked where i circles it in red? If it's cracked, it's days are numbered.
If not cracked, the blue spots are normal.
De-burr any minor damage with a file. Same where the knuckle is damaged, but be careful not to file where the bearing sits
Isn’t the spot indicative of heat? I dont know which is why i ask.
It's from the manufacturing process, and yes its from heat but totally normal
My concern is how did the birfild move up to make that contact.
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- #46
Fortunately both as good. So I'll hold off on a new axle for now hahaha. Thank you again for the help!
Update for the day. My old man (another 80 lover) and I tore down the truck today. Will begin piecing it back together this coming week. So far so good, went slow as it was both of our first times.
All and all not too bad, just tedious.
Taking the 3rd member out was fun, definitely heavy, but manageable. New 8" gasket, and hopefully it won't have any problems.
- Thread starter
- #47
Bad wheel bearing? I had them replaced thru a shop under 2k miles ago. That would be my guess.
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- #48
Damn good eye! I will inspect that tonight and might be ordering a new passenger CV.
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- #49
Yes sir, ill check em out tonight.
I would replace them as a set you don't want to end up going back in there any time soon.
Nope, wheel bearing rides on the spindle.
Axle/birfild rides inside the spindle.
The bearing on the in side of the spindle and the drive flange are what keep the short shaft / birfild centered.
I would take a good look at the drive flanges also.
Ok, I might have read somewhere that if there are numerous dark spots as shown in the photo, it’s probably best to replace. Would this be correct?
No. The spots are 100% normal, and will be visible on a brand new birf
Great, thanks.
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- #55
a new 43211R and would do the trick. might as well get two and replace both sides. Trucks got 197k miles.
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- #56
Well found my culprit. Can't mistake which one came off the passenger side haha. have yet to find a good solution to get these out. But going to order two and get them both replaced.
Would y'all run the needle bearings/brass or just brass?
I might just go solid brass. I just pulled out the needle bearing in my 2014 Tacoma a couple of months ago. The needle bearing in the taco is notorious for failing but after a while...
Depends, I’m not a fan of needle bearings either and if you conduct proper maintenance brass should last practically forever. When I rebuild my axles I elected to stick with the solid brass. I have spare needle bearings and shallow brass that I can sell you as they will just collect dust. The video you posted shows how to remove them.
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- #58
It would feel silly for me to put needle bearings in after just opting to put a solid ECGS bushing into my Tacoma. I'm cheap atm, how much would you like? I'm seeing OEM solid bushings on cruiser outfitters for $50-100 and aftermarket in the $15 range. I elect for OEM.
- Thread starter
- #59
time to source...
SST 09612−65014
and
SST 09618−60010
Might cave and try and find a machine shop near me when new parts come in.
SST 09612−65014
and
SST 09618−60010
Might cave and try and find a machine shop near me when new parts come in.
- Thread starter
- #60
Good news, that was just a strand of a toothbrush I was using to clean parts (why it's black)
