LC100/LX470 Part-Time Conversion Discussion (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

3BBFA2B7-50C0-493D-BDB5-7E4545D37EE5.jpeg
797F6074-6B5F-4A88-B42F-562450CB72BB.jpeg
BB774922-6A97-4919-8765-2AFF0C4C1163.jpeg
So I didn’t take anywhere near as many pictures as I’d like to. But this was a pretty easy install. With a lift, about 2 1/2 hours for the diff work and a little over an hour for the axles and hubs. Nothing too tricky about it. Rides great. No more clicking!!! I’ll be curious about fuel economy but that wasn’t the reason to do the conversion. Overall, the quality of the parts and the customer service from the guys at Cruiser was top notch.
 
Somehow that locking hub doesnt look quite right sitting behind the wheel hub-

06E4F068-BA93-4A3E-9BC1-7F3460D226F2.jpeg
 
It is set back a little. Are you saying something isn’t seated properly?
 
It is set back a little. Are you saying something isn’t seated properly?

On older Cruisers/Toyotas, in stock configuration, the manual hub lock-outs stick out through the wheel a good few inches. They ought to stick out a bit on a 100 series as well, but I'm guessing you are running wheel spacers with those wheels?

Yours still looks good to me! Besides, this mod is more about function, than it is about form. :cool:
 
It's too bad I live in the Arctic that is New England. This kit is certainly of interest, seeing as I'm planning on a full front axle refresh next year, but I don't think I'd truly benefit from it, especially on a daily driver. But I could be wrong.
 
Gotcha. After driving it and nothing feeling off I was worried you noticed something we didn’t today.
 
@Gassiper, what's going on with the beam car in your pics? Looks like a sand rail? VW?
 
Exactly right. It’s a customers mess we are cleaning up. Rewiring the entire thing, adding some lights, new tires and a little motor work.
 
It is set back a little. Are you saying something isn’t seated properly?
Spacers threw me off , I expected to see the locking hub stick through the wheel.
 
It is set back a little. Are you saying something isn’t seated properly?

It looked like the hub dial diameter is larger than the diameter of the wheel opening. Guess its just an optical illusion.

Another selling point to this kit is that most people end up spending ~$300 on a diff drop to keep CV angles in a healthy range for DDing a lifted rig.. if you wheel you rig only a few times a year, might as well spend the difference in $ to get a part time kit, as your CVs can probably handle the higher angle on occasion. I've been driving around in 2wd for a week, and it is pretty nice not hearing a clunk every-time i drop it into gear!
 
After loosing my front driveshaft at 75mph and chewing up anything close including transmission, I'm currently getting mine done. I ordered mine from Mark4wd. Approx $750 shipped from Australia to California. Took 4 days. I should have done this mod sooner. I literally have over $7000 accumulated expense after front driveline breakage. Expenses included custom made drive line, reman trans from Toyota and Toyota labor, rent a car and towing expenses.

Finally had a chance to drive my rig on the snow after part time conversion. What a piece of s***. Turned my rig into a 7000# sled machine. Had the rig CDL locked, hub locked and always started from 2nd gear. It took 30 min to get out of this parking space. Had one accident on the parking lot where I floated on top of the ice and my rig hit a parked car. Black ice scenario!! Parked the car the whole time we where in town and took the bus everywhere (very sad we could not rely on my rig. We were in town for 10 days). On the way home my rig tail spinned again, luckily didn’t hit anything, while turning right lost control again. Wife and kids were so scared, I told myself never again. I have been driving to Mammoth Lakes for the last 19 years during the winter times and never had any issues with my stock 80 series and my current rig ( stock form 2005 -2014 lifted with 38” tires from 2014 - 2017, part time converted mid 2017) prior to the part time conversion. I’m hoping to convert it back to full time 4 wheel drive!!! WORD OF CAUTION DON’T DO A PART TIME CONVERSION IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON DRIVING ON SNOW!!!

0782D536-63BC-4833-AFCD-C36CD45BFDA4.jpeg
 
Finally had a chance to drive my rig on the snow after part time conversion. What a piece of s***. Turned my rig into a 7000# sled machine. Had the rig CDL locked, hub locked and always started from 2nd gear. It took 30 min to get out of this parking space. Had one accident on the parking lot where I floated on top of the ice and my rig hit a parked car. Black ice scenario!! Parked the car the whole time we where in town and took the bus everywhere (very sad we could not rely on my rig. We were in town for 10 days). On the way home my rig tail spinned again, luckily didn’t hit anything, while turning right lost control again. Wife and kids were so scared, I told myself never again. I have been driving to Mammoth Lakes for the last 19 years during the winter times and never had any issues with my stock 80 series and my current rig ( stock form 2005 -2014 lifted with 38” tires from 2014 - 2017, part time converted mid 2017) prior to the part time conversion. I’m hoping to convert it back to full time 4 wheel drive!!! WORD OF CAUTION DON’T DO A PART TIME CONVERSION IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON DRIVING ON SNOW!!!

View attachment 1873458
This is not cool with what happened. I can understand not being happy about it.

I might be failing to connect the dots, but if you were in 4x4 with the hub and CDL locked, this would be essentially the same thing as if you hadn't converted your truck. In other words, you weren't driving around a RWD 7000# sled, right? If that's the case, then I'm under the impression the exact same things would have happened if you did or did not have a part-time conversion. Maybe you can enlighten me a bit more here if you can catch where I'm coming from.
 
This is not cool with what happened. I can understand not being happy about it.

I might be failing to connect the dots, but if you were in 4x4 with the hub and CDL locked, this would be essentially the same thing as if you hadn't converted your truck. In other words, you weren't driving around a RWD 7000# sled, right? If that's the case, then I'm under the impression the exact same things would have happened if you did or did not have a part-time conversion. Maybe you can enlighten me a bit more here if you can catch where I'm coming from.

To my understanding its slightly different. Prior to part time conversion we have a full time full wheel drive, I'm going to call it mild 4 wheel (its not mild by any means) with a system with some electronic assistance from VSC and Traction Control computers. At original state our 4 wheel system acts like modern all wheel drive system where the computer controls how it reacts. For example if one wheel is slipping then the computer detects and sends power to the non-slipping wheel. In most driving condition is more than sufficient, but our rigs are not just sufficient, we have an advance systems such as Low and High Gear plus Center Differential Lock. To my understanding if you press CDL, this locks the differential which makes the front and rear travel at the same time, I'm going to call this super 4 wheel drive which provides more traction for mud and rock crawling. By pressing CDS the VSC is disabled so all the torque is applied on the wheels with no skid control. More torque is bad in snow or ice. So prior to conversion we have a mild 4 wheel drive with some help of computers and an option to go to super 4 wheel drive when needed. Low gear provides even more torque/traction to wheels. After part time conversion we go from 2 wheel drive to super 4 wheel drive without VSC. which is too much torque for snow conditions. Starting from 2nd gear reduces the power to the wheels in attempt to reduce the chance of spinning the tires. Also remember my rig is front solid axle so its more like an 80 series than 100 series 4 wheel drive system. I believe VSC takes power from the spinning wheel and Traction control applies brakes to the spinning wheel.
 
Last edited:
@LX470Beast So your experience with the 2WD LX was because you don't have your front drive up and running yet?

I'd think a 2WD would perform horrendously in the snow, like it did. Why would you expect it to do well?

I'm not sure this is a reason not to do the conversion, just a word of caution to keep it in 4WD in the snow!
 
To my understanding its slightly different. Prior to part time conversion we have a full time full wheel drive, I'm going to call it mild 4 wheel (its not mild by any means) with a system with some electronic assistance from VSC and Traction Control computers. At original state our 4 wheel system acts like modern all wheel drive system where the computer controls how it reacts. For example if one wheel is slipping then the computer detects and sends power to the non-slipping wheel. In most driving condition is more than sufficient, but our rigs are not just sufficient, we have an advance systems such as Low and High Gear plus Center Differential Lock. To my understanding if you press CDL, this locks the differential which makes the front and rear travel at the same time, I'm going to call this super 4 wheel drive which provides more traction for mud and rock crawling. By pressing CDS the VSC is disabled so all the torque is applied on the wheels with no skid control. More torque is bad in snow or ice. So prior to conversion we have a mild 4 wheel drive with some help of computers and an option to go to super 4 wheel drive when needed. Low gear provides even more torque/traction to wheels. After part time conversion we go from 2 wheel drive to super 4 wheel drive without VSC. which is too much torque for snow conditions. Starting from 2nd gear reduces the power to the wheels in attempt to reduce the chance of spinning the tires. Also remember my rig is front solid axle so its more like an 80 series than 100 series 4 wheel drive system. I believe VSC takes power from the spinning wheel and Traction control applies brakes to the spinning wheel.

Let me get this right:

You have a modified solid axle 100 not IFS, you imported a AVM part time from Australia and didnt purchase the Aisin Hub Part time locker kit and special extended Toyota Cv axles packaged and offered by Cruiser Outfitters to which this project & thread discussion was dedicated to and you have some operating problems with your AVM part time kit in your modifed solid axle set up.

Not really sure the relevance of your post to the discussion because your modified solid axle 100 is apples and oranges to this discussion, its kind of misleading to the context of the thread and further lacks a little emotional intelligence by promoting another vendors product.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom