LC100/LX470 Part-Time Conversion Discussion (2 Viewers)

[Patineto]

Sorry for the clueless question but will this work for one of the early 100 (2000) I read the front shaft was now as strong as the latest version

For UtAh four wheel drive was great but we move to Minneapolis now and is kind of pointless for many months of the year (well a few months) to have front wheel drive..

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thx Kurt for sharing the info. As you probably know, the popular mod on the late model 80's is to cut in another C-clip groove on the outer axle shaft to accommodate the switchable hub. The excess length of the axle doesn't get in the way of the dial. Hopefully it is the same with the 100. I like the idea of modding the US market CV axle vs buying the shorter CV axle as it will be compatible with both the OE flange and the selectable Aisin.

Longs with Aisin hubs install @trd55

Unfortunately the actual splines themselves vary in angle and major/minor OD so modifying like we do the birfs is not an option.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Sorry for the clueless question but will this work for one of the early 100 (2000) I read the front shaft was now as strong as the latest version

For UtAh four wheel drive was great but we move to Minneapolis now and is kind of pointless for many months of the year (well a few months) to have front wheel drive..

Yes, these conversion parts will work for all US spec 1998-2007 100's

 

[theferg]

Unfortunately the actual splines themselves vary in angle and major/minor OD so modifying like we do the birfs is not an option.

I figured you would have checked that...thanks for the update. Still gonna be a cool mod!

 

[Patineto]

Yes, these conversion parts will work for all US spec 1998-2007 100's

great now to find arguments to convince the wife..

Is everything thing I need included on the "Kit" or do I need to sourse obscure parts..??

Shame I'm not a few miles from you guys anymore..

 

[cruiseroutfit]

great now to find arguments to convince the wife..

Is everything thing I need included on the "Kit" or do I need to sourse obscure parts..??

Shame I'm not a few miles from you guys anymore..

When we have a kit, it will include everything needed right down to a tube of AISIN FIPG

 

[Patineto]

When we have a kit, it will include everything needed right down to a tube of AISIN FIPG

Thanks Kurt just the way I like it..

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Finally had a minute to pull some parts out of my R&D box and do some experimenting.

View attachment 1533594

On the topis the OE shaft with new flange, on the bottom is an OE outer shaft assembly for a hub-equipped vehicle along with an AISIN hub. Sure enough the correct hub pattern AISIN slips right on and the clips all line up. Win #1

The distance from the face of the CV to the drive flange matches the distance from the face of the CV to the AISIN hub on their respective flanges. Win #2

So, as long as the length of the actual inner axle is the same, we are good to go, bolt on conversion without event requiring mods to hub, spindle, etc. That would be win #3. I won't have time to do so before I head back to South America (driving Toyota's of course) so it will have to wait until I'm back in town later this fall. That said all of our measurements jive 100% so I think they will bolt right up. Kits will follow only after I have a chance to install personally.

Now, it would be better if we can just get a gear made for the inside of the AISIN that accommodates the original CV outer AND has the correct snap ring spacing BUT that may require a pretty big buy-in and while we are selling tons of part-time kits for the 80, I'm not hearing much from 100 guys. Perhaps the lack of option is just well known and thus they don't call? The plus side of using the OEM outer joint assembly or a complete shaft is well, you get new parts. The complete shafts are good sellers and if you are buying those, the cost difference for the free-wheel hub variant is a near retail wash. Add the hubs and you're done!

This shows the difference in the stub length:

View attachment 1533595

Can you post the OEM part number of the OE outer shaft assembly pictured with the Aisin hub?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Can you post the OEM part number of the OE outer shaft assembly pictured with the Aisin hub?

Sure, 43460-69155. I've got a handful of them here now.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Sure, 43460-69155. I've got a handful of them here now.

If available PM or post the cost

 

[gnarlynick2072]

If available PM or post the cost

x2

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...I won't have time to do so before I head back to South America (driving Toyota's of course) so it will have to wait until I'm back in town later this fall. That said all of our measurements jive 100% so I think they will bolt right up. Kits will follow only after I have a chance to install personally...

If available PM or post the cost

If you're looking for the outer shaft assembly loose, I could oblige (not near pricing, sorry) and I won't have pricing nor be back to ship them until ~10/20. My guys are not going to be able to process them during my absence as they are not in our system as inventory or priced.

Our future offering will be sold as kits only (looking into assembled shafts, hubs, t-case spool, bearing, etc) once I get a chance to test fit/run them on my 100 or a local customer. All of the measurements jive 100% but we have a pallet load of hubs to find a home for so it behooves us to know what the fit with 100% certainty

 

[tarmacblack]

I ran my 98 cruiser in 2wd for roughly 14k miles. Got lazy after breaking the front diff, so center locked and front driveshaft removed was its daily gig. I didn't notice much in the way of handling difference, mileage difference, or really anything other than I could do brodies at will in any loose terrain.

All of that being said, at the price point Kurt is estimating, the reputation his products carry, and the fact that just having the option is nice, I would do it.

Also, I'm hoping to pick up another hundy here in the next month so if you need a local tester Kurt put me in line!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I ran my 98 cruiser in 2wd for roughly 14k miles. Got lazy after breaking the front diff, so center locked and front driveshaft removed was its daily gig. I didn't notice much in the way of handling difference, mileage difference, or really anything other than I could do brodies at will in any loose terrain.

All of that being said, at the price point Kurt is estimating, the reputation his products carry, and the fact that just having the option is nice, I would do it.

Also, I'm hoping to pick up another hundy here in the next month so if you need a local tester Kurt put me in line!

What did you do at the wheel hubs during your diff scenario?

 

[theferg]

I'm local -ish enough as well.

Maybe an LX OME kit and this nice part time kit knock out at the same time...

Where's Ollie...?---he want to get dirty?

 

[Riviera]

Sorry if these are dumb questions, I just want to make sure I understand everything correctly. So, after the conversion, you'd have to "lock in" the hubs from outside the vehicle, just like a good ole 70s 4x4? Secondly, because of the hub shape, I'm assuming these hubs won't work with most aftermarket wheels? I really like the idea of this, but I'm super sad that I've seen Phil say numerous times to not count on any discernible increase in gas mileage.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

IMO the last reason to do this mod on any LC/LX is for MPG the pay back time if any would be very long. I would also be hesitant doing PT if my wife used it as a DD and live in snow country, but this is my opinion. The other benefits are well worth not only from the mechanical side but even day to day driving traveling. My wife gave PT the thumbs up when we were testing having the ability to switch back and forth easily prior to the full conversion. One part of part time that I didnt like is the less steering feedback and light feel of the wheel. I recently corrected that and jumped up to 4.5° of caster (above factory recommended limits) now we have excellent wheel feedback and a must more confident feel on the road coupled with the VGRS system on the Lexus you really feel a much bigger sense steering precision and control at highway speeds. We try to keep our LX470 as our road traveler so highway travel/feel is very important.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

What did you do at the wheel hubs during your diff scenario?

The other question is how did you keep dirt out of the wheel bearings if you removed the drive axles

 

[Riviera]

IMO the last reason to do this mod on any LC/LX is for MPG the pay back time if any would be very long. I would also be hesitant doing PT if my wife used it as a DD and live in snow country, but this is my opinion. The other benefits are well worth not only from the mechanical side but even day to day driving traveling. My wife gave PT the thumbs up when we were testing having the ability to switch back and forth easily prior to the full conversion. One part of part time that I didnt like is the less steering feedback and light feel of the wheel. I recently corrected that and jumped up to 4.5° of caster (above factory recommended limits) now we have excellent wheel feedback and a must more confident feel on the road coupled with the VGRS system on the Lexus you really feel a much bigger sense steering precision and control at highway speeds. We try to keep our LX470 as our road traveler so highway travel/feel is very important.

My wife is really the main reason I'm on the fence. She doesn't really love driving my LX with the lift and bigger tires and no running boards (doesn't like ingress/egress and says braking requires "attention" ), but manually locking the hubs will probably put her over the edge!

Which leads to dumb question #3, during the winter, can you just leave the hubs locked idefinitely?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

My wife is really the main reason I'm on the fence. She doesn't really love driving my LX with the lift and bigger tires and no running boards (doesn't like ingress/egress and says braking requires "attention" ), but manually locking the hubs will probably put her over the edge!

Which leads to dumb question #3, during the winter, can you just leave the hubs locked idefinitely?

Suggestion - Dont say anything pull the front driveline and lock the center diff and pull the fuse. This will give you/her about a 85% feel of what 2WD is like and see if she says anything And hope for the 'honey what did you do the 100 drive f'n great now I love the change'

Once the hubs are engaged you are in 4WD just as if you had the center dif locked on the factory full time set up. Not being from snow country not sure if you want that.