LC 200 front recovery points (1 Viewer)

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I'm surprised ARB hasn't changed the design to put a radius on the edges, or if they don't because it would cause them to have to go through retesting/re-rating with the various agencies and certification bodies...

What agencies and certification bodies??? These are over designed so putting a 1/8" radius on them is not going to reduce the overall rating. Adding the radius is adding cost, they are already expensive enough.
 
ADR, TUV, and I'm sure others. Some countries (Austraila and Germany jump to mind) aren't as carefree as the US with people modifying vehicles willy nilly.
 
No I did not.

IIRC the bolts had Toyota graded markings on them and should be sufficiently strong, and they fit snugly in the remaining recovery point. I suppose I could throw a steel plate between them as a washer but on the whole it seems stronger to me than a 9500# D-ring.

My TrailTailor bumper has recovery points on it so I could just use them. They’re attached with 4 bolts per side to the frame horn. I feel like the factory recovery points are better suited for high forces though
Looking at the stock points the bolts wouldn’t be my concern, due to them probably being made of much, much higher grade steel than the hook itself. But pulling those bolts out of the base plate is my concern. When they are tightened down they clamp a relatively small amount of steel to the frame.

The L shaped bracket being such thick steel means much more of the base plate is clamped to the frame, which will distribute the forces more evenly. Basically you’d have to rip the sides of the base away, vs just turning the holes in the base into a big slot.

The downward hanging portion of the tie-down with the large hole in it isn’t necessary.. could be cut off if you wanted to clean things up. But I believe having the tow hook clamped between the frame and the horizontal part helps the strength of the system significantly.
 
The Arb ones seem beefy and aren’t too expensive.

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After 25 years of driving a 4x4 I have one simple rule. Run what you brung till it breaks then replace it. However it is your money and the economy thanks you. Good Luck with your choice.
 
After 25 years of driving a 4x4 I have one simple rule. Run what you brung till it breaks then replace it. However it is your money and the economy thanks you. Good Luck with your choice.
Exactly this! And to be true… the people give ARB 100$ for a lasercutted peace of metal with two screws… and it is not even any radius on it to save your stuff.
If you buy a box of beer, give it with an .stl to the next workshop with a lasercutter and ask if they have some leftover metal laying around. Paint it, fertig.
I wish I could sell this. ARB has nice stuff but some is just extremely overpriced just because they can ask this price bc people pay it.
 
Exactly this! And to be true… the people give ARB 100$ for a lasercutted peace of metal with two screws… and it is not even any radius on it to save your stuff.
If you buy a box of beer, give it with an .stl to the next workshop with a lasercutter and ask if they have some leftover metal laying around. Paint it, fertig.
I wish I could sell this. ARB has nice stuff but some is just extremely overpriced just because they can ask this price bc people pay it.
Whatever certification the had to get certainly adds to the cost but still it is hard to imagine that price for what goes into those.
 
ADR, TUV, and I'm sure others. Some countries (Austraila and Germany jump to mind) aren't as carefree as the US with people modifying vehicles willy nilly.
While I agree about country requirements on car mods but I see no certification on the ARB part in question. Just a rated strength.
 
While I agree about country requirements on car mods but I see no certification on the ARB part in question. Just a rated strength.
And even in Germany we don’t have eny specific requirements to recoverypoints apart from the fact that a car must have one in the front.
 
Anybody have a documented failure of the stock ones? What failed?
 
Pictures in some other threads on this same topic the Tundra ones are about 25 to 30 percent bigger in terms of metal size and the are direct bolt on.
 
Pictures in some other threads on this same topic the Tundra ones are about 25 to 30 percent bigger in terms of metal size and the are direct bolt on.
And an analysis by an engineer in the other thread indicate them actually appearing weaker…

But if size is all that matters…
 

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