LANDTANK - Front brake upgrade for 16" rims

[mudgudgeon]

Where does the mechanical advantage come from? If the master cylinder to piston ratio is maintained, there's no mechanical advantage. Larger diameter rotor or higher friction pads (or a stronger booster) are needed

This is a larger diameter rotor and larger pads and greater swept area on the rotor.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Having owned 80s and 105s, the brakes on the 105 series are better than the 80.

 

[OGBeno]

Nice work Rick.

 

[landtank]

Nice work Rick.

Thanks.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Any idea how the stopping performance of this would compare to say a 5th gen 4runner with 13.307" rotors?

 

[I Lean]

Any idea how the stopping performance of this would compare to say a 5th gen 4runner with 13.307" rotors?

I have those rotors on my 80, with stock 80 calipers. It did improve the braking quite a bit. (avoiding fade was my primary improvement, mine already stopped well)

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

This is a larger diameter rotor and larger pads and greater swept area on the rotor.

Just a note, larger pads don't increase braking force if the compound is the same, it increases pad life and thermal mass.

 

[JeepinPete]

Factory rotor is 311mm. 320mm is not much of a bump. 320/311 = 1.029 = 2.9% increase in brake torque, assuming no other changes.

Bumping up to the 13.307" (338mm) rotor would be more effective of course. 338/311 = 1.086 = 8.6% increase in brake torque, assuming no other changes.

I would suggest that most of the brake improvements felt would be simply from installing fresh brake components.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@landtank and @NLXTACY
This is a great endeavor. I'm definitely in need more stopping power after adding Hutchinson beadlocks and 37's.
Would your hat design allow for larger rotors to be added with an adapter for the 100 series caliper mounting for those of us running 17" wheels?

 

[retrofive]

I had a chance to pop into Joey's shop and see this work of art. It's beautiful ;P I think the community will be very happy.

 

[NLXTACY]

Factory rotor is 311mm. 320mm is not much of a bump. 320/311 = 1.029 = 2.9% increase in brake torque, assuming no other changes.

Bumping up to the 13.307" (338mm) rotor would be more effective of course. 338/311 = 1.086 = 8.6% increase in brake torque, assuming no other changes.

I would suggest that most of the brake improvements felt would be simply from installing fresh brake components.

@landtank and @NLXTACY
This is a great endeavor. I'm definitely in need more stopping power after adding Hutchinson beadlocks and 37's.
Would your hat design allow for larger rotors to be added with an adapter for the 100 series caliper mounting for those of us running 17" wheels?

keep in mind the idea is to retain stock wheels.

 

[cme4lyt]

Rick/Joey, Thank You both for trying to make this a reality. I am so interested, even though I just spent the last two weeks doing a complete front and rear brake refresh !

Looking forward to progress and if you two are involved, I know it’s gonna be done right !

Regards...

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@NLXTACY
Gotcha. Just curious. Eagerly awaiting the results of some brake tests to see if this kit will make a significant difference to my stock brakes.
Thanks for the reply.

 

[NLXTACY]

@NLXTACY
Gotcha. Just curious. Eagerly awaiting the results of some brake tests to see if this kit will make a significant difference to my stock brakes.
Thanks for the reply.

this is being put on my turbo truck. My SC’d truck has about 10k with all new brakes all around. I’ll put new pads and switch out new fluid so that I can compare the two side by side.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

this is being put on my turbo truck. My SC’d truck has about 10k with all new brakes all around. I’ll put new pads and switch out new fluid so that I can compare the two side by side.

You da man!

 

[jjdeneen918]

keep in mind the idea is to retain stock wheels.

Great work guys!

Any improvement is an improvement.

I’m eagerly waiting for some test results. Is there a way to test/measure the braking improvement to be gained?

Im running 17” Tundra/Sequoia wheels. Any chance a kit will be designed for guys running larger 17” aftermarket or 17” OEM wheels?

Any guestimation on how much improvement would be gained by adding an extra inch?

Any guestimation on how much of an improvement would be gained by upgrading to hydro-boost brake set up too?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

this is being put on my turbo truck. My SC’d truck has about 10k with all new brakes all around. I’ll put new pads and switch out new fluid so that I can compare the two side by side.

Knowing that you can't leave anything stock... I can't wait to see what you have planned for the rear brakes!

 

[landtank]

@landtank and @NLXTACY
This is a great endeavor. I'm definitely in need more stopping power after adding Hutchinson beadlocks and 37's.
Would your hat design allow for larger rotors to be added with an adapter for the 100 series caliper mounting for those of us running 17" wheels?

not sure but I doubt it. Because of the dust shield the caliper resides in a certain clocked position on the hub. So you would have to move the caliper straight out from the center and with only a 1/2" of room to work with the bolt holes of the caliper would be blocked by the ears of the knuckle. So now you are left with clocking the caliper to avoid the ears which means running no dust shield or designing a new one. And then which direction can you clock the caliper? Going low you have the arm for the tie rod and going high the casting for upper king pin.

This is just off the top of my head. Maybe there is an opportunity there but I haven't put any effort into it.

 

[jjdeneen918]

not sure but I doubt it. Because of the dust shield the caliper resides in a certain clocked position on the hub. So you would have to move the caliper straight out from the center and with only a 1/2" of room to work with the bolt holes of the caliper would be blocked by the ears of the knuckle. So now you are left with clocking the caliper to avoid the ears which means running no dust shield or designing a new one. And then which direction can you clock the caliper? Going low you have the arm for the tie rod and going high the casting for upper king pin.

This is just off the top of my head. Maybe there is an opportunity there but I haven't put any effort into it.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

not sure but I doubt it. Because of the dust shield the caliper resides in a certain clocked position on the hub. So you would have to move the caliper straight out from the center and with only a 1/2" of room to work with the bolt holes of the caliper would be blocked by the ears of the knuckle. So now you are left with clocking the caliper to avoid the ears which means running no dust shield or designing a new one. And then which direction can you clock the caliper? Going low you have the arm for the tie rod and going high the casting for upper king pin.

This is just off the top of my head. Maybe there is an opportunity there but I haven't put any effort into it.

@landtank
Thanks for the feedback. Definitely interested in seeing how these turn out.