Landtank Caster plates (1 Viewer)

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Hi

does anyone have instructions to install 2.5” caster plates (there are 4” instructions linked from wits end) . The plates arrived today but they did not come with instructions. Anyway I will be giving this to a third party to do, and he hasn’t fitted them before, and I do not want to pay him to read through and search a load of posts to figure this out. I could print some threads from ih8mud, but I can’t find something specific that will print in a format that would need to be clear for him.

Maybe he can figure it out, know where and when to weld, etc, but I would rather it was clear for him, So it takes him less time, and reduces the $100/hr bill!

TIA
 
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place the plates on the side the axle bracket with the rear hole of the plate aligned with the rear hole of the bracket and the front dowel pin placed into the bolt hole on the front of the bracket. Then trace out the open hole of the plate onto the bracket and drill/notch the bracket for the bolt to pass through. Start with the passenger side as the plates can't be installed backwards in that position.

After the install is completed stitch weld the front of the plates to the front of the bracket.

there is a detailed install on the site.
 
Mine didn’t include instructions but here is what I did. I did mine in the driveway so I chocked the rear wheels and left the Ebrake engaged. Removed the control arms and working on one side at a time I clamped the plates to the outside of the axle housing using the rear bolt through the rear hole to align the rear of the plate. The front of the plate has a dowel that goes in the original front bolt hole. Once in place I prayed some paint through the front plate bolt hole, this stenciled the location of the new bolt path onto the outside of the axle housing. Removed the plates and used an angle grinder to cut a grove from the bottom up to the location of the new bolt location, basically grinding out a section as wide as the bolt and removing the marks I made with paint. Placed the plates back on and test fit them to make sure the bolts would pass through. Then rotated the axle and bolted it up. Second side the same procedure. Made sure it was on the ground and torqued them in place, then welded the front of the plate to the adjacent housing.

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Mine didn’t include instructions but here is what I did. I did mine in the driveway so I chocked the rear wheels and left the Ebrake engaged. Removed the control arms and working on one side at a time I clamped the plates to the outside of the axle housing using the rear bolt through the rear hole to align the rear of the plate. The front of the plate has a dowel that goes in the original front bolt hole. Once in place I prayed some paint through the front plate bolt hole, this stenciled the location of the new bolt path onto the outside of the axle housing. Removed the plates and used an angle grinder to cut a grove from the bottom up to the location of the new bolt location, basically grinding out a section as wide as the bolt and removing the marks I made with paint. Placed the plates back on and test fit them to make sure the bolts would pass through. Then rotated the axle and bolted it up. Second side the same procedure. Made sure it was on the ground and torqued them in place, then welded the front of the plate to the adjacent housing.

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Excellent, thank you
 
place the plates on the side the axle bracket with the rear hole of the plate aligned with the rear hole of the bracket and the front dowel pin placed into the bolt hole on the front of the bracket. Then trace out the open hole of the plate onto the bracket and drill/notch the bracket for the bolt to pass through. Start with the passenger side as the plates can't be installed backwards in that position.

After the install is completed stitch weld the front of the plates to the front of the bracket.

there is a detailed install on the site.

Thanks. I did look for a detailed install on this site for the 2.5" version, but didn't find anything with pictures in the time frame i looked. Really a one pager instructions with the product would not take you long to make, and add any tips, like support vehicle chassis to remove arms, one arm at a time to keep axle in place, weld when control arms are not in place to save bushings, only a small weld on front needed. There is some instruction on the site, they may be clear to most people, but i do not think they are that detailed and concise, remember i wanted to sent to someone else to do this for me. I did expect instructions with this product, i do not think that is unusual, since it helps the customer, and gives the vendor comfort to ensure these are fitted easily and correctly.

Without boring you with the details, with the lack of instructions, i would be explaining to another person (who deosnt read this site) how to fit these remotely, by text etc. i just don't have confidence in that, so will delay until i can get hands on to vehicle myself
 
Thanks. I did look for a detailed install on this site for the 2.5" version, but didn't find anything with pictures in the time frame i looked. Really a one pager instructions with the product would not take you long to make, and add any tips, like support vehicle chassis to remove arms, one arm at a time to keep axle in place, weld when control arms are not in place to save bushings, only a small weld on front needed. There is some instruction on the site, they may be clear to most people, but i do not think they are that detailed and concise, remember i wanted to sent to someone else to do this for me. I did expect instructions with this product, i do not think that is unusual, since it helps the customer, and gives the vendor comfort to ensure these are fitted easily and correctly.

Without boring you with the details, with the lack of instructions, i would be explaining to another person (who deosnt read this site) how to fit these remotely, by text etc. i just don't have confidence in that, so will delay until i can get hands on to vehicle myself
I’ve never actually installed or used the plates. I made them for a few guys who asked for them. As I said, the plates can only mount to the passenger side bracket one way. So start there. It’s not hard to figure out.
 
Got the Landtank Caster plates installed and panted up yesterday.

All so got all new OEM bushing pressed in the control arms & painted them as will.

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@Broski Looks so good & fresh when painted. I’m gonna do the same on mine. :) Any special type of paint for the axle & control arms?

@landtank Just installed a 2.5” OME lift kit. Can I order a set of caster plates & bolts? Dont see it on Wits End’s website.
 
I use Appliance epoxy paint ;)
 
@Broski Looks so good & fresh when painted. I’m gonna do the same on mine. :) Any special type of paint for the axle & control arms?

@landtank Just installed a 2.5” OME lift kit. Can I order a set of caster plates & bolts? Dont see it on Wits End’s website.
send a request via a PM and I can give you the details on ordering.
 
For the tight spaces, buy a good step down drill bit, you get perfect holes up to 1/2” very quickly, those bits are flat out amazing and infinitely better than using regular bits. Harbor Freight has good options. And get a 1/4” bit extender so you can get through both sides with the step down bit on the passenger side. This will save you hours. Trust me.

Also get stubby 9/16” and 5/8” bits. Regular bits are too long on the PS side. Do not begin until you have these. Get them in 3/8” shank size. Harbor Freight sells a Bauer right angle drill for $50 that is 3/8” bit. You can’t get much better clearance and it’s much shorter than a 1/2” heavy duty rental right angle drill.

This will turn an all day project into 30 mins of drilling, max.
 

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