Landtank Caster plates

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Front Leading Arm bushings
48061-60010 (2) - 1 rear on each
48702-60050 (4) - 2 front on each
 
Front Leading Arm bushings
48061-60010 (2) - 1 rear on each
48702-60050 (4) - 2 front on each

Dr, I’ve recently replaced all oem suspension bushings and simply replacing the ome caster correction bushings. Does this mean I just need qty 4 of these? 48702-60050

E0E220BA-ABEB-4BBF-A8C6-8452E3DEF02B.webp
 
How many OMEs did you throw in there? I'd guess those typically just go to the front to drop the arm. Those 4 should overhaul your whole front..On both sides.
 
Yep, I was in a big hurry to get mine installed, But when they got here I was so concerned about losing ground clearance that I was not willing to install them with out looking for other options. My main Concern was once I drilled & welded the plates I could not go back to the stock configuration and use some Slee arms witch i think is the only way to correct caster with out losing ground clearance. Sense I had all ready bought a replacement arm [for the one I bent] the OEM bushing & landtank plates I through in the towel and went for it. If I ever change it again It's getting a three link!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and I will clean all that crap off the bottom of the axle that I keep getting hung up on!!!!!!!!!!!!! HO that would be SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any ways I am running the OME 850J's with a 1" spacer. I think the Landtanks add about a 1/2" of lift and I am debating taking out the spacer.
The landtank caster plates will actually add 1/2" lift? I'm unsure of installing my 1" coil spacers at the moment. And am waiting for my landtank plates. Maybe I won't install spacers if these actually give a little bit of lift?
 
The amount of lift is minimal if any. Loss of ground clearance was perceived. In reality there is no loss of ground clearance and I’m happy with the way the landtank plates work.
I ended up using the 1” spacer.
 
The amount of lift is minimal if any. Loss of ground clearance was perceived. In reality there is no loss of ground clearance and I’m happy with the way the landtank plates work.
I ended up using the 1” spacer.
Great, I just installed the 850J's front and 863's rear. Just a tiny bit high in the rear. So was planning on the 1" front spacer. But if the landtank plates raise it at all I'm afraid it would be to much over what I want.
 
The instructions are really confusing to me for some reason. Says to drill straight through from one side of the plate. But how do you know where you're coming out through the other side stock plate and into the new plate that's clamped on? Or do you actually drill inward through each plate for the first drill, then go with the longer bit because you can now see the pilot hole?

Can someone explain in 100% lamons terms to me?
 
Last edited:
The instructions are really confusing to me for some reason. Says to drill straight through from one side of the plate. But how do you know where you're coming out through the other side stock plate and into the new plate that's clamped on? Or do you actually drill inward through each plate for the first drill, then go with the longer bit because you can now see the pilot hole?

Can someone explain in 100% lamons terms to me?

I haven’t installed the 4” plates but the installation pdf here is very detailed and has some good pictures to help. 80 Series Caster Correction Plates- 4in.

B18E0880-7608-4E65-B35F-BA4146E194CA.webp
 
I haven’t installed the 4” plates but the installation pdf here is very detailed and has some good pictures to help. 80 Series Caster Correction Plates- 4in.

View attachment 1863956
This is the exact part that I don't understand. Why drill a pilot hole that way when they come with pilot holes? I've read over the instructions many times. My truck is apart now and I'll be attempting the drilling tomorrow. Even looking at the everything apart and ready the instructions just aren't well written IMO. Says drill all holes from the left side. That doesn't seem possible, specially for the first drill sequence
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: DKW
you can't drill the inside of the right axle bracket from the plate side because the differential is in the way.

so you have to dril both sides of that bracket from the outside. To get the pilot hole drilled on the inner side you need to clamp the outer plate on the innerside and pilot it by passing the drill bit through as shown in the picture.
 
you can't drill the inside of the right axle bracket from the plate side because the differential is in the way.

so you have to dril both sides of that bracket from the outside. To get the pilot hole drilled on the inner side you need to clamp the outer plate on the innerside and pilot it by passing the drill bit through as shown in the picture.
The light bulb just came on. I get it now!! Thank you! Just wasn't clicking before for some reason.
 
Am I doing it right? Time consuming, little frustrating working outside in the rain. Hope it's all worth it!

IMG_0021.webp


IMG_0023.webp


IMG_0024.webp


IMG_0025.webp


IMG_0026.webp
 
Now that the #LANDTANK Caster correction plates have been around for a few years now, some folks are putting in enough miles to need to replace Caster bushings again. Or folks are redoing all suspension bushings to get a better road feel. Well if you do need to replace your Caster bushings specifically then you will need to follow the same OEM process by also replacing the Caster bolts since they are single time use.


But if you have Caster plates your bolts are 1/4” longer than stock bolts. These new bolts are now available to make sure you are following the suggested OEM hardware replacement schedule when replacing bushings.

85E5728D-5408-4580-AA0D-DEA8CD4C4196.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom