landcruiser broke down -( update )broken timing belt -(update) fixed! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 4, 2018
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550
Location
Colorado Springs
a little help if anyone knows. today my landcruiser cut out while my wife was driving it home. long story short had to tow it back to house. has a check engine code p0340 cam shaft position sensor. did a little digging but don't see many people who have this code get stranded.

possible causes are bad wiring or short circut, bad camshaft position sensor or pcm failure. anyone know anything about this? i just bought this cruiser a couple months ago. it seemed very well taken care of. i don't think neglect played a role here. there's no rust on this vehicle and it has never been off-road so i doubt physical damage to wiring. but I'll know more when i get some time to look at it. any info is appreciated. thanks.
 
Congratulations on the LC & sorry to hear about the code.

Does it crank/engine turns over or is it completely dead?

Check out some of the other posts on. This should help.

 
Congratulations on the LC & sorry to hear about the code.

Does it crank/engine turns over or is it completely dead?

Check out some of the other posts on. This should help.

it cranks. just won't start.
what are the indicators of a broken timing belt? this one is within it's service period but nearing the end so close to 90k since last done
 
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Before you dive into the timing belt check out my thread detailing the experience I went through after my truck threw the same code on a drive back from Colorado. It ended up being a short in the camshaft positioning sensor wire due to it rubbing against the serpentine belt

RTH - CEL On My Way Back From Colorado
 
That is one issue I had with my LX. I would look at replacing the CPS first and hopefully that fixes the issue. If not look at the timing belt and serpentine belt. I had these codes P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, P0308, P0171 and P0172 and we worked on the CPS and also changed out all 4 ignition coils on the drivers side and still was running really bad. We then took off the timing belt covers and come to find out my timing belt was shredded in certain areas. Hopefully your is just the CPS having a short or has just gone bad. Good luck on the repair. Let us know what it ends up being.
 
Had a rodent of some variety completey chew through and sever both wires on mine one night ( the first one must've tasted great, so why not go for the other...) right at the connector to the sensor, but mine still started and drove. Seeing all those lights on the dash suddenly light up is a crappy way to start a morning (and a Land Cruiser.)
Let me know if for some reason you need the part number for that plug or the pre-crimped wire ends that go with it.
 
it cranks. just won't start.
Before you dive into the timing belt check out my thread detailing the experience I went through after my truck threw the same code on a drive back from Colorado. It ended up being a short in the camshaft positioning sensor wire due to it rubbing against the serpentine belt

RTH - CEL On My Way Back From Colorado
well i tore into it a little tonight. i tried to find the cms and it looks like it's under the timing belt cover. i tried disconnecting the reachable bolts, hoses and whatnot but i was unable to slip the timing cover off enough to get it off. So this is going to be a big ordeal it seems just to replace this sensor. it seems coolant lines and hard oil lines run right in front of the cover preventing it's removal. I'll be half way to a timing belt change just getting to it. unless I'm wrong and ive got the wrong sensor. also why can other people drive with a cms messed up but mine is completely out of commission? btw i could see the timing belt and it appears fine.

also discovered i have a leaking axle seal and my coolant was so low i could remove the upper hose without losing coolant. So I've got some projects ahead of me. this was supposed to be my reliable vehicle while i work on my tacoma.

if anyone has actually changed the cms or at least know what must be done to remove the front driver side timing cover please let me know.


edit: i ordered the cms from Amazon so i could have it by this weekend. looks like I'll have to drain coolant and remove coolant lines and maybe the fan and shroud and serpentine belt. hopefully it fixes it because the alternative is probably bad pcm at least according to the internet.
does this engine take Toyota red coolant? if so, luckily i have some coming for my tacoma already.
 
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Low coolant may be a sign that your water pump has been leaking. If the bearing on the water pump gets sufficiently wore out, the pulley will tilt allowing the timing belt to move around and jump some teeth on the cam pulley. This can result in a cam position sensor code and a non running engine. Best of luck.
 
Have acess to an oscilloscope? Easy to grab a cranking wave form from the sensor at the pcm before loading up the parts cannon
 
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Have acess to an oscilloscope? Easy to grab a cracking wave form from the sensor at the pcm before loading up the parts cannon
how would one use such a thing? do i hook it up to the cms or something else?
 

See if that will help.
 
I had the same issue. Turned out to be the plug for the sensor wasnt completely plugged in and clipped and it eventually worked loose to where it would throw a code and eventually the engine quit. It LOOKED plugged in but it was not. If your timing belt has been done previously that is the first thing i would check
 
well i tore into it a little tonight. i tried to find the cms and it looks like it's under the timing belt cover. i tried disconnecting the reachable bolts, hoses and whatnot but i was unable to slip the timing cover off enough to get it off. So this is going to be a big ordeal it seems just to replace this sensor. it seems coolant lines and hard oil lines run right in front of the cover preventing it's removal. I'll be half way to a timing belt change just getting to it. unless I'm wrong and ive got the wrong sensor. also why can other people drive with a cms messed up but mine is completely out of commission? btw i could see the timing belt and it appears fine.

also discovered i have a leaking axle seal and my coolant was so low i could remove the upper hose without losing coolant. So I've got some projects ahead of me. this was supposed to be my reliable vehicle while i work on my tacoma.

if anyone has actually changed the cms or at least know what must be done to remove the front driver side timing cover please let me know.


edit: i ordered the cms from Amazon so i could have it by this weekend. looks like I'll have to drain coolant and remove coolant lines and maybe the fan and shroud and serpentine belt. hopefully it fixes it because the alternative is probably bad pcm at least according to the internet.
does this engine take Toyota red coolant? if so, luckily i have some coming for my tacoma already.
It is the sensor behind LH (driver side (DS)) upper timing belt cover.

Toyota red or pink is year dependent. Adding year, miles, along with LC or LX470 to your signture line will help others in answering your questions.

Three reason for coolant being low.
  1. Was not properly topped (air bubble). Very common. Can lead to overheating while temp gauge reads cool or normal. Cabin heater will generally blow cooler than normal, should blow very hot.
  2. Leak. I'd do my best to find before any work begins.
  3. Overheated and blew out reservoir bypass. Not common unless very bad radiator cap and or stuck closed thermostat, and would likely only result in lose of about a cup. May indicate some other engine issue.
When I find a rig low on coolant during inspection. I then look very hard for signs of overheating. This includes inspecting all coolant hose for swelling and 360 degrees of each head gasket. I also check all points a leak could possible come from; seals, hoses, tees or part like WP including the radiator.
 
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It is the sensor behind LH (driver side (DS)) upper timing belt cover.

Toyota red or pink is year dependent. Adding year, miles, along with LC or LX470 to your signture line will help others in answer your questions.

Three reason for coolant being low.
  1. Was not properly topped (air bubble). Very common. Can lead to overheating while temp gauge reads cool or normal. Cabin heater will generally blow cooler than normal, should blow very hot.
  2. Leak. I'd do my best to find before any work begins.
  3. Overheated and blew out reservoir bypass. Not common unless very bad radiator cap and or stuck closed thermostat, and would likely only result in lose of about a cup. May indicate some other engine issue.
When I find a rig low on coolant during inspection. I then look very hard for signs of overheating. This includes inspecting all coolant hose for swelling and 360 degrees of each head gasket. I also check all points a leak could possible come from; seals, hoses, tees or part like WP including the radiator.
it's a 2000 landcruiser 275k miles. thank you for this post. ill check for a leak.
 
Use Toyota Red coolant! I like the 100% red, which I mix 50/50 with distilled water (demineralized water).
 
how would one use such a thing? do i hook it up to the cms or something else?

Yes you back prob the signal wire of the cam shaft position sensor, ground it and crank the engine while watching the wave pattern on the scope. Should be consistent square pattern. If your new sensor doesn't work pm me ill dig up a known good pattern from library.
Fyi I can't count how many non genuine sensors I've got dead out the box.
 
i bought a genuine sensor thankfully.

is there a way to confirm my engine is still timed before replacing this sensor? is there a marking somewhere or a method to determine this? the concern being it may have slipped a tooth.
 
Yes- remove cam covers- remove the accessory/serpintine belt, turn crank pulley to the 0 zero mark, and the small dot on the cam gear should line up with the hash mark above the cam gear. It sometimes takes two full revolutions of the crank pulley to get the cam gears and the timing mark at zero on the crank pulley to all line up.

1922170
 

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