landcruiser broke down -( update )broken timing belt -(update) fixed!

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also whoever worked on this last used GREEN coolant!

so what kind of damage am i looking at here? is it ruined? i've heard conflicting things about this engine being interference vs non interference.

can i get back on the road with a new timing belt and water pump kit? and if so where should i but it? i was just gearing up to do this on my tacoma in 2 weeks. now this takes precedence.
 
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I'm really sorry to see that, man. I've always been under the impression that the 4.7 is an interference engine (the later vvti models being even scarier,) but I really have nothing to back that up other than a lot of lurking/learning through osmosis. Fingers crossed for the best possible outcome for you.
 
From what I understand, the 98-05 non VVTi is non interference, and the 06-07 are interference engines.
 
Aisin TKT- 021 kit about $180 on amazon
 
Toyota considers all 2UZ-fe engine (VVT and non VVT) interference engine. But we've many documented cases in mud, of timing belt breaks (even under load) in the non VVT not doing any damage at all. The green coolant is no big deal either. I just happen to be in the camp that likes using only Toyota coolant as best practice.

The belt break is likely due to a failure of water pump, idler bearing or the tensioner. Sinces coolant was low my money is on water pump failure. Replace them all with a new belt kit including tensioner and you'll likely be fine. The Aisin TKT - 021 w/ tensioner is the one you want, as @abuck99 listed. But Don't buy the kits that states "bearing may come from (and list different countries)". @cruiseroutfit has kits you can trust.

Remember the "T" above each cam sprockets, are not the timing marks.
Use 1282B FIPG on the one spot FSM calls for it or the Aisin FIPG which is a smaller cheaper tube of same stuff from all accounts.
Don't forget to put back the two tiny pieces of plastic cover, mice get in if that door left open.

If you look in first link in my signature you'll find and index. look under "timing belt" and you'll see two links that will help you get through the job with easy.

I see the hot side (out heater hose) of heater tee has clamps turned up. The is sure sign that tee has been replaced. But with 275 miles and no knowledge of when, it may be worth replacing TEEs now. I like to do them both at time of timing belt job (7 yr or 90K mile). The hoses of hot side looks good, no swelling. Clamps turned up indicates they may have replaced hoses. As clamp on all hoses should always be place back in same orientation (indentation). You'll be able to see old impression (indentation) in rubber if hoses not replaced, before you remove clamps that is.

Throttle body also looks clean, which indicates someone tuned it recently.

Foam boot on PCV valve is missing and PCV valve looks clean, indicating this may have been replace recently. If PVC hoses and PVC grommet are still soft and not cracking they too were replaced.

All in all I see some good signs.

It's a really nice idea to pull all spark plugs at this time. You can inspect them along with coils and boots. This also makes installing and checking timing belt easier, when you need to turn the crank.

Hey it's 20 years old rig with over 1/4 million miles. It just needs some TLC and it should be fine.

Have fun with it!
 
thanks for that insight. i expect i should replace cam seals and crank seal at this time as well? fan bracket too?
im doing the exact same thing on my tacoma so this came at a bad time financially but want to take advantage of my efforts and replace the necessary items without replacing unnecessary items. on a positive note the cam sensor is probably fine so i can return that.
 
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At your mileage I say yes to cam seals, crank seals, and fan bracket. Aisin fan bracket is same as OEM. As @2001LC suggested you can order all of it from Cruiser Outfitters- Granted it maybe a little cheaper on Amazon but there is a lot of counterfeit parts there so be warned. You’ll be guaranteed authentic Aisin branded parts, Koyo idlers etc from Cruiser Outfitters
 
I just notice what looks like a screw clamp on hose setting just above your serp belt idler pulley. If on oil cooler pipe hose, I've had issues where Lexus dealer replaced those three small hoses use aftermarket and used screw clamps. Sure bet they'll leak. I replace with OEM hoses and clamp.

www.partsouq.com and www.toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com are just a few of the very competitive places to get OEM parts. just watch prices and shipping. They can really vary as to which is best.
 
well heres my parts list. besides a serpentine belt which I'll get locally, do you see any obvious omissions? Are these the correct parts? part numbers i think are correct but I'm especially wondering about the crank seal. not sure it's the correct location (front or rear). also do i need an o ring for the upper housing? i see a bunch of grey sealer around that joint.

aisin fan bracket fbt002
90311-A0001 Type-T Crankshaft Oil Seal
90311-38065 Type-T Camshaft Oil Seal (2)
Aisin TKT-021
2 gallons of toyota red
the schley crank pulley tool
Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket sealer
90916-03100 Thermostat
Toyota 16346-50010, Engine Coolant Thermostat Gasket
edit to add:16620-0W101 V-Belt Tensioner
 
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Keep us posted as you tear into it, we could use more anecdotes of timing belt breakage. I'm running an old belt myself, and spent hours researching this exact scenario...decided to chance it for now until I can do it right the first time!
 
i got it almost completely torn apart. found a way to remove fan bracket without loosening rear most ac bolt which would have been a huge pain.

i had to turn the crank to tdc and turn one cam to tdc. a long as these are lined up, am i good? first round of parts show up tomorrow so i might be able to put some of this back together before my insane work schedule starts again next week.
fyi was able to turn the crank by hand with some effort. cams required a sockey wrench to get it to roll all the way to tdc.i could get it almost there by hand but not quite. it kept rocking back to its previous position.
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by removing this ac clip from it's bracket i didn't have to loosen ac rear bolt. also had to bend metal tab above it.

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some more pictures. kinda nasty inside. not sure this is oilly crud or wet coolant drenched crud. really really hope i don't have more serious issues regarding leaks.

the crank sprocket won't budge. is there a secret to getting this off so i can reach the crank seal? heat?
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This is not set to TDC-
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This is TDC- the white mark aligned with the 0 hash mark.


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thanks. i actually did catch that earlier and moved it. also got the crank timing pulley off with a little penetrating oil heat and some light prying with a screwdriver. it had some light corrosion on the crank shaft directly under the pulley.

also ordered a new tensioner for serpentine belt since the bearing didn't sound good. might as well do it now to save frustration later.

if my cam seals aren't leaking should i still replace them? also are there new orings in the aisin kit for the parts of the water pump and thermostat housing that go into those found pipes behind them? i think I'm going to need new ones.
 
well heres my parts list. besides a serpentine belt which I'll get locally, do you see any obvious omissions? Are these the correct parts? part numbers i think are correct but I'm especially wondering about the crank seal. not sure it's the correct location (front or rear). also do i need an o ring for the upper housing? i see a bunch of grey sealer around that joint.

aisin fan bracket fbt002
90311-A0001 Type-T Crankshaft Oil Seal
90311-38065 Type-T Camshaft Oil Seal (2)
Aisin TKT-021
2 gallons of toyota red
the schley crank pulley tool
Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket sealer
90916-03100 Thermostat
Toyota 16346-50010, Engine Coolant Thermostat Gasket


Yes get all of that! The same exact thing happened to me and that isn’t the parts list I have. Mine should be finished on Monday. Do you plan on doing the job yourself? If so make sure you have lots of time on hand. Good luck and keep us updated.
 
Re- replacing cam seals and crank seal; if you dont know if they have ever been replaced and since youre at 275k I would say yes. Its easy, takes very little time and cost is minimal. It would suck to have a seal start to leak 10k after you buttoned it up.
 
I bought 4 season idler pulley on drive belt and within 4000 miles had to replace it. Then went with oem. So have those oem as well. Dont use a screw driver to pry the old oil seals, could damage the crank or cam surface. You should be able to carefully drive two wood screws on two opposite sides of the oil seal and pull it out. Get Aisin fan idler ans aisin fan cluth. If the radiator is old, replace that along with oem hoses. Like 2000LC stated, avoid screw type hose clamps.

I installed the thermostat housing on to the engine by turning the two bolts equally. Apply some coolant to the O ring before you slide it in.
 
What did you determine as the cause of belt failure? Was the water pump seized ?
 
What did you determine as the cause of belt failure? Was the water pump seized ?
water pump seems fine actually. spins freely with no drag or sound. I'm not sure actually. timing belt was aftermarket.i found a small chunk of rubber in the bottom. not sure if that was from this belt or last one. belt doesn't look age cracked. maybe just poor quality aftermarket belt is the cause?
 

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