landcruiser broke down -( update )broken timing belt -(update) fixed!

[abuck99]

No FIPG used on water pump. Just the metal gasket. Do you have the Toyota repair manual? Follow that and you will have the correct step by step procedures and torque values.

@2001LC - I think the AISIN fipg you're speaking of AISIN AB1207B. AISIN states that fipg cross references with Toyota 00295-00103 (103B type) ( AFIK there are only two types of fipg they offer: red & black). Now Aisin claims their fipg can be used for water pump( stated on packaging)- but I suspect you'd have to factor in much longer drying time before adding coolant compared to the Toyota 08826-00100 1282B ( $$$ stuff). Unfortunately there's no equivalent available to replace 1282B.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

started putting it back together.

actually if i want wasnt waiting for cam seals i could have this back together today. but between cam seals vbelt tensioner and now alternator brushes im about done here. I'm going to watch some videos on setting up timing belt so I'm ready for that step.

here is my floor of organized parts. also have a box for labeled bolts.

i used one of these week pullers to pull the crank seal. despite its design it put an ever so shallow groove into the crank where the seal rides. i polished out the raised portion to hopefully prevent it from leaking.
probably better to slightly perforate the seal away from the shaft when using this puller. i thought it was supposed to slip between the shaft and seal.

I'll keep you updated on progress throughout the week if i get time and next weekend.
thanks to all who have helped so far. the knowledge is 90% of this game.

 

[abuck99]

Good progress! I thought about using one of those Lisle seal pullers, glad I didn't. I used one of these:

Good call on ALT brushes. Wished I had done mine when I was in there.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

fancy. i ve bought enough tools lately so i may try the screw method. or a modified method of using this puller.

I'm also thinking about just using the permatex stuff. since it really just goes on that one fitting its not the end of the world if i have to reseal it down the road. the previous mechanic must have used permatex super grey because the old stiff on there was grey. but then he also used green coolant sooo.... means nothing.

also if im going to do heater t should i do 4 seasons metal ones? those are three only ones i can get on Amazon. i can have it in two days when everything else arrives

 

[nissanh]

I experienced toyota fipg works at the first try. Also, it has a very long shelf life. I store fipg in 2 zip log bags. Buy oem heater Ts. You experienced the consequence of using cheap aftermarket parts in a hard way. Lucky nothing happend to the engine.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

cam seals cam in. had a few minutes after work today so i changed those out. i used the same seal puller as before but this time i dressed the edges with sandpaper. this time no damage to shaft.
one cam bolt came off with impact. had to use this pulley holder and breaker bar to get the other off. after install torqued to 80 ft lbs.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I hope it all works out! Good organization as well.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

got the belt on. i had to put this together at tdc rather than at 50 degrees advanced like the fsm says because my timing belt was broken I couldn't get the cams advanced exactly right to my knowledge. but it worked out anyway. as long as the cam belt lines up with the cam lines and crank it should be fine. used clamps as extra hands as suggested by others. worked well.

here's everything lined up with tensioner installed but pin not pulled yet.

i tried the test of advancing the crank 2 full turns and checking timing. everything was right on except the passenger crank was a tiny bit off.

i suspected this was due to belt tension not being applied yet so i pulled pin on tensioner and turned the crank 2 full turns again. this time it lined up just about perfectly. as close as i could get the crank to tdc anyway.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

then torqued the crank bolt to 181ft lbs. used the schley tool. the bolts were a little long and made it awkward to use. i couldn't screw them in all the way. maybe it was just dirty threads. anyway it still worked. btw you can put the tool on before you put the harmonic balancer on the crank. it was mildly annoying trying to line up the bolts in the pulley while reaching from underneath the engine bay.

i got quite a bit more done tonight despite having to backtrack a couple times due to being stupid. almost left the crank sprocket off which would keep it from running. luckily i caught that early. also put fan bracket on with a/c wiring loom not in place. woops. had to undo the a/c again and remove fan bracket to route it correctly. decided to go to bed after that before i make more dumb mistakes.
used this video as my guide. whoever this is thank you! I'm sure you're on mud somewhere.



also replaced my alternator brushes while i was at it. only added 10 minutes of work while everything is accessible like this. glad i did. they didn't have much left.

also used the same gentleman's other video to figure that one out. the 80 and 100 series alternator must be very similar. it was almost exactly the same.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

maybe a silly question. what color is this coolant? when i drained it it appeared green. now it looks mostly red. the handle area looks green. when i bought the vehicle and checked coolant in the radiator it looked red.

 

[sleepycruiser]

What your dealing with is mostly red.

......I think.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

installed new thermostat. old one looks a little

used the 103 fipg. will wait the 24 hours to refill the system.

preparing to flush tomorrow so i can be up by Monday.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

all put together. basically just waiting now to refill system.
is there any special procedure for filling system before first startup? any concern of water pump area being "dry" for the first few moments?

 

[melepley]

I can't wait to hear you report the engine is running again.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

she lives!


i heard some funny noises at first but they quieted down since it warmed up. also, besides the idler bearing which i need to replace. it's quieter than before. there was ticking sound before that may have been the timing belt that was slightly torn or something. not sure.

thanks for everyone's help! I'm just flushing the coolant system right now. only water in it at the moment

 

[baggar11]

she lives!


i heard some funny noises at first but they quieted down since it warmed up. also, besides the idler bearing which i need to replace. it's quieter than before. there was ticking sound before that may have been the timing belt that was slightly torn or something. not sure.

thanks for everyone's help! I'm just flushing the coolant system right now. only water in it at the moment

Dude, that's awesome! Been following this thread since you started it. Glad everything worked out! Another example of an early 100 series timing belt breaking and not causing any valve issues.

 

[nissanh]

Yep, non-interference! I'll drive till my T belt breaks! Yey!!

OP when you get a chance replace all those screw type hose clamps with oem clamps. Hoses live longer and more importantly, engine looks oem to a wary eye.

 

[FxFormat]

Glad you're back on the road, if the last person left the factory belt on, you wouldn't have to go through this.

 

[toyuda]

Been following this along too. Great thread with helpful documentation. Thanks for contributing this to Mud. Strong work!

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Glad you're back on the road, if the last person left the factory belt on, you wouldn't have to go through this.

actually the previous owner only replaced factory belt when it broke at around 180 or 190

Yep, non-interference! I'll drive till my T belt breaks! Yey!!

OP when you get a chance replace all those screw type hose clamps with oem clamps. Hoses live longer and more importantly, engine looks oem to a wary eye.

the previous owners mechanic replaced every hose he encountered with those things. also "fixed" a heater tee with a non dealer tee that stretched out all the hoses. I'm going to have buy new houses and clamps to properly fix it. I'm sure the new radiator houses are aftermarket as well. one day.... when the bank account recovers.