Labor + Parts: IFS > SAS w/leafs vs linked? (1 Viewer)

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woytovich

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Starting with an IFS mini truck and going to a SAS what are the metrics on leafs vs linked? Consider I would most likely go with as complete a "kit" as is available for each to reduce R&D time and to simplify the process.
Interested in experience with labor required for each and costs.
Thanks,
mark
 
I went 3 link on Dusty when doing the SAS. Reasons where mostly about lower ride height, and I wanted to build a 3 link. Cost wise was about equal, I built all my own brackets so I just needed to buy heims and DOM, I owned coils already, I guess I could have used the rear leafs up front cause I 4 linked the back.

It comes down to how much time do you want to put in to designing your 3 link correctly. If that is not a priority than leafs would be quicker. There are lots of detail in my thread: Dusty the mini truck that wishes it was a Land Cruiser

Of course this is only my opinion, and I like to do things the hard way.....Its more fun!!!🆒
 
If you did spring under axle up front with some long leaf springs and long shackles to let the leafs really go through their arc you could get a lot of travel, keep it low, and it would be very simple. SOA on the front of a mini truck that was ifs is very difficult to keep low. I guess you could do soa with reverse eye leafs. That would be simple too and keep it pretty low.
 
Wouldn't the link kits solve the problem of figuring out the geometry?

I can’t say specifically on any kit out there. You will find it pretty hard to find link numbers published on the available kits, and the numbers change with link length. This was part of the reason I built my own. It really depends what you are going to do with it. if you are going to drive it at highway speeds then roll axis matters. Further to that, when you use leafs on the front with the shackle on the rear side of the spring get a roll axis correction automatically as the leaf moves the axle forward and backwards durning it’s travel. You also don’t need sway bars with leafs, with coils front and back you will want at least 1 sway bar (I made mine out of the torsion bar from the second gen mini truck so it didn’t cost much) to drive at speed. You will likely need a high steer kit with leafs, high steer kits on 3 links depends on how low you build it. I skipped the high steer on the 2nd gen 3 link because the drag link would have required the removal of the frame up front and in would have contacted the engine crank pulley, but I was trying to keep it low; my lanyard bar comes up between the engine and the crank pulley at full stuff. I would agree with @White Stripe ’s comment, it will be hard to keep leaf SAS low on an IFS truck if you go SOA. If you go SUA you might keep it lower but you will lose ground clearance, and I don’t recall much out there for turn key SUA kits (but I never really looked either).

To give you another perspective of mine, my next project is to build a ’67 fj40 on leafs, kinda old school. I will be staying SUA with 4” lift springs and cutting fenders to make tires fit, comp cut style. I will set up the front leafs with the shackles at the back even tho the shackles came on the front. The idea on this one is to keep it cheap, simple and quick; I bought a torn apart project of a guy who already had all the necessary parts collected. In contrast my mini truck was complicated, time consuming and more expensive than expected (but aren’t they always!) and I’m super happy with the out come.
 
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I mean the link kits designed for specific models and years.
There's a lot of kits out there, but the only one I've seen that's truly thought out in regards to geometry, drive characteristics, and being truly stout is the one from 4 wheel underground (and it has a price tag that'll make you wince).
 

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