Kind of "Mystery" Coolant leak back of engine (heat exchanger valley leak)

[bryson]

My tip on putting it back together is: Don't.The Hewitt kit is quick and easy (but not cheap).

Find someone with small hands and an extra elbow in each arm.

I do realize that none of this is helpful to you at this time.

 

[pvchaitanya]

My tip on putting it back together is: Don't.The Hewitt kit is quick and easy (but not cheap).

Find someone with small hands and an extra elbow in each arm.

I do realize that none of this is helpful to you at this time.

extra elbow is soo true

 

[pvchaitanya]

My tip on putting it back together is: Don't.The Hewitt kit is quick and easy (but not cheap).

Find someone with small hands and an extra elbow in each arm.

I do realize that none of this is helpful to you at this time.

its not the hands which is my problem. I got slim surgeon fingers [lol], can get into the tiny corner to turn the bolt, but the angle is sooooo f'up. Something is wrong in either our understanding of how to work in that space or with toyota.
I highly doubt an independant shop can do this job in 5 hrs shop time. getting behind the intake screws is a bit of circus and SAIS is total wack job.
Even Hewitt kit where you put plates between the SAIS and pipe is impossible, getting the gen2 with additional (x2) pressure sensors kit will make it possible to ditch this SAIS but at that point its 799$ to remove SAIS.

 

[sdnative]

It has been close to two years since I did this, but I seem to remember using specialty tools. Maybe a ratcheting wrench? And I did have to put some pressure on the air injection pipe, hopefully not enough to cause a leak at the exhaust manifold. So far so good, no leaks yet.

I did take the valve apart to clean out the carbon buildup, but I am not sure that was needed.

I was trying to avoid causing an exhaust leak (ticking) or throwing a SAIS code (P2442 I believe).

This thread is worth a read:

Help! Code P2442 Secondary AIR System Switching Valve Stuck Open

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[pvchaitanya]

It has been close to two years since I did this, but I seem to remember using specialty tools. Maybe a ratcheting wrench? And I did have to put some pressure on the air injection pipe, hopefully not enough to cause a leak at the exhaust manifold. So far so good, no leaks yet.

I did take the valve apart to clean out the carbon buildup, but I am not sure that was needed.

I was trying to avoid causing an exhaust leak (ticking) or throwing a SAIS code (P2442 I believe).

This thread is worth a read:

Help! Code P2442 Secondary AIR System Switching Valve Stuck Open

forum.ih8mud.com

thought about doing that but I already blew this project out of proportion by adding spark plugs, PCV replacement, serpentine belt etc. I dont want to SAIS to middle finger me just because I cleaned it up and fix everything back and voila, open it up again to replace it.

 

[pvchaitanya]

finally got it lined up.
First I bolted the passenger side pipe front bolt slightly.
Used two long screwdrivers to use as leverage to lift the both pipes up a bit and use the 3rd hand to wiggle the SAIS into place while using the 4th hand to keep the metal washer in place.
all while creeping on top of engine bay making sure I dont put any weight on the plastic radiator.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Well I don't know if I should be happy or mad about this thread.
After reviewing it, I went out and saw there was no coolant in the overflow tank. Put a light in the valley and found a leak.

Does anyone have a parts list? I'm going to fix it.

 

[sdnative]

Well I don't know if I should be happy or mad about this thread.
After reviewing it, I went out and saw there was no coolant in the overflow tank. Put a light in the valley and found a leak.

Does anyone have a parts list? I'm going to fix it.

There are some part valley leak related part numbers in addition to the radiator parts in this thread. That was close to two years ago and may not apply to your MY so double check.

2013 107K Radiator, Starter, Water Pump - Long Term - Repair & Process Advice

Hello! My radiator just busted and I'm posting to get some guidance. My 2013 LC has 107k miles, I purchased it CPO, and at the time I also purchased the Toyota certified Platinum warranty which should have me covered for the radiator repair as it goes though 131k miles and July 2022. At least...

forum.ih8mud.com

I believe you only need these parts, but double check.

08826-00100 Three-Bond 1282B seal packing (1)
96761-35035 Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring (2)
17171-0S030 Gasket, Manifold (2)
00272-SLLC2 Toyota SLL coolant

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Cool. Thanks for the info.

 

[pvchaitanya]

Cool. Thanks for the info.

Cool. Thanks for the info.

let me know if you need the FIPG, I can send it to you for cost of shipping.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

let me know if you need the FIPG, I can send it to you for cost of shipping.

It's on national back order. They gave me a target date but I don't have faith. PM'ing you my info.

 

[Acrad]

Interesting about back order... I picked up some of that FIPG early last year for my parts stash for likely need at some point in the future on my 460 (1UR-FE).

 

[pvchaitanya]

Interesting about back order... I picked up some of that FIPG early last year for my parts stash for likely need at some point in the future on my 460 (1UR-FE).

check the date on the pack, the FIPG have an expiry date of 1 year. If its stored in cool place, it may be longer but do a test before you apply it. The one used for coolant starts sets in very quick. (3 mins is the fastest if conditions are right). if you do a test and its not hard on the outside in 2 hrs, dont use it.

 

[mceagle555]

While I am the type of guy who will proactively fix things even if they aren’t broken, the coolant valley leak does seem to be a big fix to bite off.

Hypothetically, if you have a small leak, the coolant overflow tank looses very little each month (say 1/4” drop in month), and you keep it topped off regularly, is there a danger in not repairing the slow leak?

 

[bloc]

While I am the type of guy who will proactively fix things even if they aren’t broken, the coolant valley leak does seem to be a big fix to bite off.

Hypothetically, if you have a small leak, the coolant overflow tank looses very little each month (say 1/4” drop in month), and you keep it topped off regularly, is there a danger in not repairing the slow leak?

Given the style of seal here, being a very thin layer of RTV clamped between thick flanges of aluminum, I highly doubt it will ever catastrophically blow out.

So no I doubt it will result in loss of ability to maintain system pressure, or danger or damage if the level stays topped up.

The problem though, is the leak will likely progress, and crust will continue to build up. I could see it eventually encasing the knock sensor harness or other stuff under the manifold. Some of the trucks posted have had quite a pile of pink mess...

Or maybe wipe out the stray cats in the neighborhood.

I'd say it depends on what you plan to do with the rig. Tow a heavy trailer taxing the cooling system for long periods of time? It would be high on my list of priorities. Mostly travel unloaded, live up north, or just don't work the cooling system very much? Consider status quo and see how things progress, while watching the level like a hawk.

 

[pvchaitanya]

While I am the type of guy who will proactively fix things even if they aren’t broken, the coolant valley leak does seem to be a big fix to bite off.

Hypothetically, if you have a small leak, the coolant overflow tank looses very little each month (say 1/4” drop in month), and you keep it topped off regularly, is there a danger in not repairing the slow leak?

agree with @bloc
as long as you don't find it annoying or frustrating to open up your hood once a week to check and top off coolant, you may be ok to keep going.
I did mine for good 3 + months and the rate of refill was consistent, didn't get worst since the time I observed.

 

[Roc14]

I know this is an old thread here, but I was quoted $2,200 from the dealer for the coolant valley leak! Long story short, decided to do it on my own. The air valves are a real pain in the you know what! I just wanted to thank the previous posts for the detailed instructions. The stubby ratchet wrench came in handy! Now for the test of time to make sure their are no leaks! BTW getting parts these days is a joke! Cheers!

 

[MHFJ]

To revive this thread yet again, you can add my 2013 with 168k miles to the list. I notice that the old sealant was gray and the new 1282B is black, so I'm assuming Toyota realized this was dumpster fire and changed it. Does anyone know if the later years (2016+) have or are going to have the same issue in the future?

 

[Acrad]

On the 460 it seems I've seen a few early 2015s although in post here I've seen 1UR-FE in other market with LC 200 series with the same issue. They were clearly '16+ models

Most common problems GX460 for current owners

This is helpful to me as well, thank you OP. I'm looking at one locally send real wish there was a post or video (like with other models) that goes step by step over what to look for. I plan on my next vehicle lasting a long time so I want to make sure these repairs have been done.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[poppe]

So drove 1000 miles for thanksgiving. Next day took LX out to see the small town we were visiting. 20 minute drive. Parked and sat for 15 minutes. Then a small little puddle appeared. Pinkish I think but hard to tell. Might smell of coolant too but hard to tell. Coolant level on dashboard is normal, same with engine temperature.

No coolant left in reservoir. The only auto parts store open is oreilly’s and they only had one bottle of Xerex Asian Red 50/50. Is that fine - previous owner seemed to be using pink/red?

How screwed am I getting home? Can I top off every fill up and just make it home?