Kind of "Mystery" Coolant leak back of engine (heat exchanger valley leak)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Is it possible that your tester has a slight leak? Did the 17 psi show any decay?

17PSI leaked down maybe .5 - .75lbs in 15-20 min. Certainly possible the tester is leaky... Borrowed it from O'Reilly.
 
17PSI leaked down maybe .5 - .75lbs in 15-20 min. Certainly possible the tester is leaky... Borrowed it from O'Reilly.
Soapy water from a spray bottle will expose an air leak very effectively.
 
how did you people remove the grey cables attached to the rear of the intake manifold?
It has two screws which are attaching the grey cable in two spots to the back. Its really tight and I couldn't figure out how to remove it easily.
Any tips?
 
how did you people remove the grey cables attached to the rear of the intake manifold?
It has two screws which are attaching the grey cable in two spots to the back. Its really tight and I couldn't figure out how to remove it easily.
Any tips?
I unbolted the bracket from the manifold. I used a ratcheting box end wrench.

On assembly I attached the bracket but had the grey clip disconnected and then clipped it wile placing the manifold.
 
I unbolted the bracket from the manifold. I used a ratcheting box end wrench.

On assembly I attached the bracket but had the grey clip disconnected and then clipped it wile placing the manifold.
thanks. I will do that.
I am hesitant of this method, if the bolt falls down the firewall side, its difficult to fish it out.

Another question,
What is the best way to put the gaskets on the intake manifold? Should those be put on the manifold and then put on the body of engine or
put the gasket on the engine block and then put the manifold on it?
I saw the gaskets a bit oily, is it normal to have oil on the gaskets?

Also, does anyone have torque values for the intake manifold?
 
Last edited:
how did you people remove the grey cables attached to the rear of the intake manifold?
It has two screws which are attaching the grey cable in two spots to the back. Its really tight and I couldn't figure out how to remove it easily.
Any tips?
It is just like the gray clips on either side, there is a tab that you bend back and it will slide right off the post. The one on the back of the manifold has the tab on the bottom facing backward. Tough to get to but with a short screwdriver or oring pick it is possible mostly by feel.

Just like this. Tab is in the center.

FB61F468-6F2D-450F-990D-1C2177BBABC3.webp
 
I saw the gaskets a bit oily, is it normal to have oil on the gaskets?
Reading that this is the sign of worn our PCV valve, so it should be fixed as I replace PCV valve.

Any help on order of fixing the gasket on the manifold and torque values would be appreciated.
 
Intake torque is 15 ft lbs per my google search. That’s what I torqued mine at.
 
Correct, FSM says 15 ft lb for 8x M8 bolts and 2x M8 nuts on the intake manifold.
 
Had the same leak going.

Fixed this week : Sealant of the heat exchanger cover.

2011 with 95 K miles.
Wished Toyota used better quality sealant on the heat exchanger cover.

E1D38088-6FF5-47F9-83C0-CFDA7B239BFD.webp
 
Depressing thread, was hoping for better from Toyota, but thanks for all the good info and warning! I've had the leaky valley pan out of my BMW, and lifted the intake on my 100 to access the starter. Looks like I'll be doing this in 4-5 years on my '21? Getting older, not as excited about wrenching as I used to be.
 
Depressing thread, was hoping for better from Toyota, but thanks for all the good info and warning! I've had the leaky valley pan out of my BMW, and lifted the intake on my 100 to access the starter. Looks like I'll be doing this in 4-5 years on my '21? Getting older, not as excited about wrenching as I used to be.
Isn’t the new super-expense sealant some kind of updated part? Toyota should have been aware of this before your rig was built so there is a decent chance they addressed the issue.
 
Had the same leak going.

Fixed this week : Sealant of the heat exchanger cover.

2011 with 95 K miles.
Wished Toyota used better quality sealant on the heat exchanger cover.

Getting on this job today as the weather is warmer.
will keep you posted if I get stuck or need some advice.
 
IMG_5649.webp

I removed my bash plates under my truck and saw some oil leak like thing. Any common cause of these leaks?

IMG_5651.webp
 
I hope its not the dreaded cam tower leak.
Does anyone know if using a high mileage oil which swells the seals help with this?
 
Mine has an oil leak at the top of the timing chain cover on the driver's side, and from years of looking at pictures on here I am not the only one. I'd bet that is close to your source. Technically not the cam tower as it is forward of the exhaust manifold and doesn't pose any risk of catching fire.

It is still a big job to get in there and reseal though.. which is why I haven't tackled it yet. I just use a bottle of engine degreaser on the area every oil change and that keeps things from getting too messy and ending up on the driveway.

Seal swellers may help, but keep in mind to make a given rubber seal swell it must get less dense, which generally means softer.. and therefore less durable. And it isn't selective. So other rubber seals in contact with the oil may no be as durable long term. For that reason I avoid high mileage oils.
 
Looks like same clip discussed here in 460 coolant valley thread



82711-2A620

20161125_164531-jpg.1357347
1-jpeg.2838653

I seriously cannot get to:
1. Unclip these two harnesses from back of the intake
2. or unbolt the L metal plate which holds this. I am using 10mm long box wrench and its not getting proper angle or grip.

Any other options or suggestions on how to get to it?
does it hurt if I use snips to clip off the 82711-2A620 harness clip?
 
Poster above said ratcheting spanner. If you don't have a set, they are worth buying. I have both straight and flex head style and they get lots of use.
 
Back
Top Bottom