just realized. Gona buy one now.
I found it really tight to get a regular wrench head around the bolt, but I guess I will force my way through to get the 12 point ratchet wrench. Thanks.
Kind of "Mystery" Coolant leak back of engine (heat exchanger valley leak)
- Thread starter cc93cruiser
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I found it really tight to get a regular wrench head around the bolt, but I guess I will force my way through to get the 12 point ratchet wrench. Thanks.
So a quick update on how to get to the back two 10mm bolts.
The one on the driver side was a bit easier to put the 10mm ratcheting wrench and get it off.
the one on passenger side it a very tough one to do, until I realized I had to remove the windshield covering and the bar on the intake manifold out of way.
This way, we get clear visibility on what is going on in the back, and used my box end wrench to slowly undo it.
I think doing this makes this process a lot more easier than shooting in the blind on the firewall side. (another tip, I tied a thread to the wrenches just in case they drop off, its easy to pull them up)
The one on the driver side was a bit easier to put the 10mm ratcheting wrench and get it off.
the one on passenger side it a very tough one to do, until I realized I had to remove the windshield covering and the bar on the intake manifold out of way.
This way, we get clear visibility on what is going on in the back, and used my box end wrench to slowly undo it.
I think doing this makes this process a lot more easier than shooting in the blind on the firewall side. (another tip, I tied a thread to the wrenches just in case they drop off, its easy to pull them up)
So a quick update on how to get to the back two 10mm bolts.
The one on the driver side was a bit easier to put the 10mm ratcheting wrench and get it off.
the one on passenger side it a very tough one to do, until I realized I had to remove the windshield covering and the bar on the intake manifold out of way.
This way, we get clear visibility on what is going on in the back, and used my box end wrench to slowly undo it.
I think doing this makes this process a lot more easier than shooting in the blind on the firewall side. (another tip, I tied a thread to the wrenches just in case they drop off, its easy to pull them up)
Just wait until you get to the secondary air injection valves
Yeah, those are a blast. Hire a qualified small child with little hands.Just wait until you get to the secondary air injection valves
That pic doesn't really show enough to make an educated guess at a source. It could be as simple as the lower oil pan leaking. Mine was, and it looked just like your pic. It was an easy fix requiring only some Toyota black FIPG and some time and (minimal) effort.
Bypass em….Just wait until you get to the secondary air injection valves
what is this bypass method?Bypass em….
any ih8mud write up on this?
i found a link online about, it, is this the one you are referring to?
New Tundra Air Injection System Bypass Module
If your Tundra or Sequoia needs an expensive air injection repair that isn't covered under warranty, a $100 bypass module might be the solution for you.
tundraheadquarters.com
Hewitt Tech. It’s a relay/plug and play option to completely prevent the system from running again.what is this bypass method?
any ih8mud write up on this?
i found a link online about, it, is this the one you are referring to?
does it mean I will remove the secondary air injection valves completely?New Tundra Air Injection System Bypass Module
If your Tundra or Sequoia needs an expensive air injection repair that isn't covered under warranty, a $100 bypass module might be the solution for you.tundraheadquarters.com
yeah, does it mean I remove the secondary injection valves completely? I see that there are some pipes which will be left open if I remove the valve body.
No. There is no removal of anything. It renders the system inoperable and it physically remains in place.
ok, thanks for clarifying. Then it doesn't help my immediate cause of making my assembly process any easy as I have to put that parts back.
I will look into cleaning the injection valves with MAF cleaner. I see some videos, does anyone know of instructions or details in other posts on this forum for cleaning?
It can remain in place if you choose, but it can also be removed (almost) completely.
You buy the Hewitt Gen 2 bypass kit, plus 2 of their pressure sensor options. Not super cheap, but this allows you to remove the electronic drivers on the driver side fender, air pumps in the passenger front fender well, associated piping in the engine bay, and both of the valves behind the intake. Hewitt provides slip-in block off plates for the exhaust piping, but they require the valve-side piping flanges (they're part of the valve assembly) to remain in place (the block off plates sandwich between flanges). To totally remove the valve assemblies you have to have block off plates cut out that don't require the other flange to be there. Feels good not to have to worry about being stranded/disabled by a trivial system that provides no useful benefit.
On that note, does anyone want to buy a 100% intact and functional SAIS system?
Acrad
GOLD Star
How hard is it to get at the air pumps on the 3UR-FE?
There is only 1 pump on UR-FE in 460 and in easily accessible location by the power steering reservoir .
I bring this up because in event of system failure that causes limp mode on a 460 there is this temp method below:
Temporary method to get out of LIMP mode - Remove plastic cover over radiator area, disconnect electrical connector on air pump, reset existing OBD codes, CEL will be re-triggered but should keep vehicle out of LIMP mode. It has also been reported you can reset the codes while vehicle is running and that will also keep out of limp mode. One would need to do the latter workaround each vehicle trip though.
that makes more sense now. I was looking at some plates which come with Hewitt and it didn't trigger to me that those plates are to close out the pipes which are currently connected to the SAIS system. Yeah, wish I knew this before. would have ordered the kit already.It can remain in place if you choose, but it can also be removed (almost) completely.
You buy the Hewitt Gen 2 bypass kit, plus 2 of their pressure sensor options. Not super cheap, but this allows you to remove the electronic drivers on the driver side fender, air pumps in the passenger front fender well, associated piping in the engine bay, and both of the valves behind the intake. Hewitt provides slip-in block off plates for the exhaust piping, but they require the valve-side piping flanges (they're part of the valve assembly) to remain in place (the block off plates sandwich between flanges). To totally remove the valve assemblies you have to have block off plates cut out that don't require the other flange to be there. Feels good not to have to worry about being stranded/disabled by a trivial system that provides no useful benefit.
On that note, does anyone want to buy a 100% intact and functional SAIS system?
Does anyone know if a gen1 is sufficient for a 2011 vehicle?
Gen2 is close to 400$.
Acrad
GOLD Star
I was able to finally get to the plate, slowly and steadily taking breaks for my back and neck.
Looks like the truck had a coolant leak earlier before I bought it. (136k miles).
The FIPG looks grey, toyota factory one is black.
So, they must have used a generic FIPG?
Can anyone confirm this color whether its toyota factory one?
Looks like the truck had a coolant leak earlier before I bought it. (136k miles).
The FIPG looks grey, toyota factory one is black.
So, they must have used a generic FIPG?
Can anyone confirm this color whether its toyota factory one?
The pumps aren't that hard to get to on a 3UR-FE - they're just in the right side front wheel well. The inner fender liner does have to be partially removed to get to them, but it's not too bad. The plugs for the pump power are located in the engine bay near the airbox and are fairly easy to get to in the case of the limp mode issues.
kms254
SILVER Star
seriously guys. kudos to everyone who was able to put the SAIS back on.
I am struggling to put it together. If I put the SAIS and pipes lined up, the passenger side front bolt wont line up.
If I put the bolt first into the SAIS before I line it up with the rest of the pipes and body, the angle makes it terrible for me to line up the body.
In all these trail and errors, the weird metal gaskets get drop off or chewed up. This is a f'up job. Removing the side well under the wheels doesn't help at all.
Any tips on putting it back together are appreciated.
I am struggling to put it together. If I put the SAIS and pipes lined up, the passenger side front bolt wont line up.
If I put the bolt first into the SAIS before I line it up with the rest of the pipes and body, the angle makes it terrible for me to line up the body.
In all these trail and errors, the weird metal gaskets get drop off or chewed up. This is a f'up job. Removing the side well under the wheels doesn't help at all.
Any tips on putting it back together are appreciated.
I gave up trying to bolt the valves to the the passenger side pipe and instead disconnected it from the exhaust manifold thru the wheel well (you'll have to remove the RF tire). Once you do that you can remove/reinstall the valves and the passenger side pipe as a unit. There is infinitely more room to work with on the other end of the pipe (exhaust manifold end).