Key fob locks but won’t unlock

[96LXtech]

Ok guys. I have had the same issue and have identified the cause. I have a 2008 76 series landcruiser that has just over 200k on the clock. I have owned it since new.

A couple of months ago the unlock function on the key fob stopped working. The lock function on the remote key fob worked fine. When the fob was pressed to unlock the doors the indicators would flash to show a signal had been received but the door locks would not operate. Lock and unlock worked fine with both the key in the drivers door lock or by using the switch on the arm rest.

I have a Toyota workshop manual that provided a schematic for the door lock system. From this I decided the problem had to be in the Door Assembly Relay located in the driver door. Bought and installed a new one - problem still there. Unfortunately the workshop manual is deficient in that the schematic does not show the complete circuit including the signal receiver for the remote key fob nor the connection to the indictors. The signal receiver for the remote key fob is located in the middle of the dash on my VDJ landcruiser. The receiver was receiving the signal (hence the flashing indicators) and sending out a signal to unlock the doors. The signal it was sending out was not being received by the Door Assembly Relay in the door, thus there was a break in the wire between the receiver and the controller.

It turns out the wire was broken in the loom that runs from the door frame into the door. I suppose the many times the door has been opened and closed over the years eventually fatigued the wire and broke it. Anyway fixed the wire and now all good again.

Hope this info helps someone. The problem drove me nuts. I could find similar or the same symptoms for 80/100 and 70 series cruisers but no one who had resolved the problem.

Regards all
Chris

What gauge wire was the repair?

 

[shocktower]

Check out this thread. It could be your problem. RS3000 won’t lock fix

I throw the RS3000 in the bin they are 20+ year old and worth less , they are a millennial

 

[96LXtech]

Took the door panel offf last night bc I had the same issue found 3 broken wires in the harness. I was able to strip them back and solder a repair piece between them.
I also noticed the PO had used masking tape to repair a few wires at the speaker.
MASKING TAPE!!!! What a jack wagon!!!
Anyways fixed that too and now I need to buy the remote again. I bought one and when it wouldn’t unlock I figured it wasn’t working so I returned it. Oh well see the pics for what those wires were before. They are on the most outside of the harness so they stretch the most.
18 gauge wire btw

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Following up on this thread. Any others that have resolved their issues? I just started to get the same symptoms: fob will not unlock the doors but the chirp works and lights flash. It was working this morning and then stopped. Only thing that occurred in between was I had to lay on my horn when someone cut me off. The horn worked and then suddenly quit and wont work again. Can they be related? Any input would be appreciated. I will report any findings of my own.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Using the RS3000 electrical wiring manual and owners manual I was able to resolve my issue. A bad horn fuse under the hood. New fuse installed and we are back in business! Hope this helps someone else.

 

[hingo]

Thought I'd add on my experience to this thread for anyone else who may stumble across this issue.

I kept blowing brake light 10amp fuses in the passenger footwell fuse box. It actually started happening after the car was washed, initially I assumed it was due to a broken third brake light at the top of the hatch which was broken when I bought the car. I figured once I replaced it the shorts would stop.

Then I started having the problem described in this thread, the car would lock with the remote fob, but when you pressed again to unlock, the lights would flash to indicate the signal was received but the locks wouldn't unlock. I never connected the two being related, I had a broken door handle and thought maybe water was getting in when it was washed.

Anyway when googling I kept getting threads like this one that indicate a short somewhere most pointed to the trailer harness wiring.

It didn't take long though to find the problem, there is a loom that runs from the boot/trunk to the tailgate, it was badly damaged with multiple wires exposed that have melted together. If I touched the loom the tailgate lock would short out and lock/unlock.

I had to cut the wires back a fair bit to clean them up so I had to add new wire in to rejoin them. Four of the wires are a fairly small gauge, say 3mm, and a single thicker wire, say 5mm. I added the new wire in, soldered and then taped up with electrical tape. I'd suggest using liquid tape though for a better seal I just didn't have any on hand. It's a s***ty spot to have to rejoin because the wires get crushed when tailgate is raised, so try not to make your repair too thick. I resecured it with a ziptie. Not sure how long my patch will last.

 

[hingo]

Thought I'd add on my experience to this thread for anyone else who may stumble across this issue.

I kept blowing brake light 10amp fuses in the passenger footwell fuse box. It actually started happening after the car was washed, initially I assumed it was due to a broken third brake light at the top of the hatch which was broken when I bought the car. I figured once I replaced it the shorts would stop.

Then I started having the problem described in this thread, the car would lock with the remote fob, but when you pressed again to unlock, the lights would flash to indicate the signal was received but the locks wouldn't unlock. I never connected the two being related, I had a broken door handle and thought maybe water was getting in when it was washed.

Anyway when googling I kept getting threads like this one that indicate a short somewhere most pointed to the trailer harness wiring.

It didn't take long though to find the problem, there is a loom that runs from the boot/trunk to the tailgate, it was badly damaged with multiple wires exposed that have melted together. If I touched the loom the tailgate lock would short out and lock/unlock.

I had to cut the wires back a fair bit to clean them up so I had to add new wire in to rejoin them. Four of the wires are a fairly small gauge, say 3mm, and a single thicker wire, say 5mm. I added the new wire in, soldered and then taped up with electrical tape. I'd suggest using liquid tape though for a better seal I just didn't have any on hand. It's a s***ty spot to have to rejoin because the wires get crushed when tailgate is raised, so try not to make your repair too thick. I resecured it with a ziptie. Not sure how long my patch will last.

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FYI this is a UZJ100 100 series landcruiser not an 80

 

[96Cruiser]

I have a 10 year old post with no results so since this is posts within the last 9 months I will try here, my problem is similar but not quite the same.....when i push the top button, i get a double flash of the interior/;license plate lights but no door lock actuation, i can use the key in the door to locl/unlock the doors and the lock button on the door switch panels works too.
I have been through the harness from ecu to the drivers kick panel but didnt see any suspect wiring.
if the current storm passes I plan on pulling the seat and door panel "again" and giving it another hard look.