KDSS - UNfrozen! :) How I did it... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter NLScooby
- Start date
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Our 2015 sees lots of winter mountain driving here in Colorado, where mag chloride is more prevalent than salt. But, my valves were also rustier than I expected. Some wire brushing, followed by some penetrating oil and mine broke loose. I used anti-seize rather than grease on the threads before re-tightening. At some point, I intend to do some additional cleaning, then paint the housing & valves with some decent paint. What a PITA!
fireball
SILVER Star
Is there a preferred product to grease and protect the KDSS valve?
My 200 spent it's entire lift in MS and is about the see the first ever road salt. Want to make sure it's protected as well as can be.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10...&qid=1514339040&sr=8-3&keywords=marine+grease
Thanks!
My 200 spent it's entire lift in MS and is about the see the first ever road salt. Want to make sure it's protected as well as can be.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10...&qid=1514339040&sr=8-3&keywords=marine+grease
Thanks!
I painted mine with rust preventor and then smear the hex heads with marine grease. I also backed the bolts / valves out the three turns and applied grease on the threads. Just keep them clean whenever you have a chance to do so.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Same.
Marine Grease worked for me too. Blue thick stuff...stays on like a champ.
I'm not in a salted street area, but rust doesn't take long to start so worth coating no matter what.
MrCWineMan
SILVER Star
Thanks for reviving the thread, it reminded me to go and reapply LPS. Third application in 25k and looking pretty good, not perfect of course, didn’t know about the problem for first 10k - which happened to be all on salty snowy roads.... oh mag chloride.
fireball
SILVER Star
What is LPS?
Does it matter what product I use or was the marine grease in the amazon link I provided sufficient for the task at hand?
Does it matter what product I use or was the marine grease in the amazon link I provided sufficient for the task at hand?
MrCWineMan
SILVER Star
LPS is an anti corrosion spray that builds a waxy layer.
https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor/dp/B01N3RZI0J
I like it because it’s an aerosol so it’s easier to apply, but marine grease should work just fine I’d think also.
https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor/dp/B01N3RZI0J
I like it because it’s an aerosol so it’s easier to apply, but marine grease should work just fine I’d think also.
I sprayed LPS 3 on the cast part of the KDSS vlv body over a year ago and have removed the cover twice to ck for new rust and non has appeared. The vlv's work smooth and I have not reapplied for test purposes . When I applied the LPS 3, I sprayed it on then worked it around the back of the vlv and on all of the hardware for the cover. Dusty trail rides and sand dunes has not dried the stuff out and the mag chloride on our streets hasn't made a difference. It has been around a long time in the aviation and marine industry. I have been using it for about 30 years now and can tell you one can of this stuff will last a long time.
I removed the cover and checked out the KDSS valve on my 2011 today. This LC200 was an inland FL and NC vehicle it's whole life. The machined area of the valve had some surface rust, but the bolts were not corroded at all, though I spotted some rust around the area where the bolts mate to the housing - not bad, but it's there.
It's sub-30* outside, so loosening the valves will be a job for the spring. I slathered a liberal amount of anti-seize grease on and around the bolt heads to stop any further corrosion and will revisit this in a few months.
Thanks for the input gents. My plan is to follow the advice on this thread (Kroil, wire wheel, pick, tapping, time, and some heat).
It's sub-30* outside, so loosening the valves will be a job for the spring. I slathered a liberal amount of anti-seize grease on and around the bolt heads to stop any further corrosion and will revisit this in a few months.
Thanks for the input gents. My plan is to follow the advice on this thread (Kroil, wire wheel, pick, tapping, time, and some heat).
Just mulling this over in my head... worst case scenario - has anyone attempted this operation and stripped/rounded-out a valve bolt in the process?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #72
The answer is yes! If you search the forum on topics related to KDSS, you’ll find plenty of stories of people having lifts installed while having to work around frozen and/or stripped valves.
fireball
SILVER Star
This doesn't look too bad, does it?
I would give them a quick soak, then expect them to break free without too much fuss. Rest of the underside of the truck is in great shape.
I would give them a quick soak, then expect them to break free without too much fuss. Rest of the underside of the truck is in great shape.
We busted ours open today, as part of the lift kit install on the new to me 2008. My son tells me they were stiff but he was able to get them open three turns without stripping. Will grease liberally with Bel Ray waterproof grease (cause that's what I have on hand) when I put it together.
What is the open connector for on the sheet metal cover over the valves?
What is the open connector for on the sheet metal cover over the valves?
- Thread starter
- #75
No these aren't bad. These are great!
- Thread starter
- #76
This question has come up before I don't think we've ever determined it for sure! IIRC, I think a few hypothesis were:
1) Lighting connector for step lights on a Lexus LX
2) AHC Suspension related for Lexus LX
3) I think someone suggested there was a way to "turn off" or lock out the KDSS system on some Japanese literature
4) Flux capacitor
I wish my 2011 came with a Flux Capacitor.
Its been over a year since I sprayed the KDSS vlv's with LPS 3 and there is no new rust and valves move free.
When I had the cover off I reversed the connector in question so it is on the inside of the KDSS vlv cover. I just figured it would be one less thing to get torn off by a branch.
Its been over a year since I sprayed the KDSS vlv's with LPS 3 and there is no new rust and valves move free.
When I had the cover off I reversed the connector in question so it is on the inside of the KDSS vlv cover. I just figured it would be one less thing to get torn off by a branch.
Just a PSA (Public Service Announcement): With all the deicer they spray on the roads around here, I was slightly concerned about the KDSS system corroding, as well as other under vehicle components. Yesterday at about 10k mi on the LC, I crawled under the cruiser, wiped all the dirt and grease off the KDSS valve, checked for corrosion (there was none), and reapplied fresh grease. I'm happy to report that the every-other-week car wash undercarriage wash is doing its' job and everything looks great. I've seen other cars around here where the owners have ignored the effects of the deicer they use, and it's UGLY.
Reviving this thread as I'm in the process of prepping my KDSS adjustment screws for servicing (break free, back out three turns, apply anti-seize to threads, retighten, etc.)
I was really lucky as my valve has very little rust and the screws are clean. I've been hitting the screws with Kroil (wonderful stuff BTW) and I cleaned up the area around the screws with a dental pick.
Here's my question as I didn't see it answered already:
When the adjustment screws are retightened, will they stop turning clockwise when they reach the zero / factory closed position? My fear is they will continue to turn into the cast iron housing past their original "set" position. My initial thought was to mark their current position with a dimple to ensure I retighten them to the right depth, but if they bottom out at the correct position, then this will not be necessary.
I hope the above question makes sense. I'm going to keep soaking the screws with Kroil (with tapping) for another week before attempting to loosen them.
I was really lucky as my valve has very little rust and the screws are clean. I've been hitting the screws with Kroil (wonderful stuff BTW) and I cleaned up the area around the screws with a dental pick.
Here's my question as I didn't see it answered already:
When the adjustment screws are retightened, will they stop turning clockwise when they reach the zero / factory closed position? My fear is they will continue to turn into the cast iron housing past their original "set" position. My initial thought was to mark their current position with a dimple to ensure I retighten them to the right depth, but if they bottom out at the correct position, then this will not be necessary.
I hope the above question makes sense. I'm going to keep soaking the screws with Kroil (with tapping) for another week before attempting to loosen them.
gaijin
GOLD Star
The shutter valves bottom out on a mechanical stop - you can not turn them in too far. Just be sure to properly torque them - I don't recall the correct torque, maybe someone else can provide that?
Here's what the valves look like:
HTH
