KDSS Max Relocation Kit + End link LCA skids (1 Viewer)

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Thankfully they are Australian and not a BRICS country, so hopefully they will be spared massive tariffs..

I’m more worried about the price of aluminum since I’m using thick 5052 sheet, made the US.
 
I spent some time today removing the 1.25” spacers from my rock warriors to judge if ET50 was possible with regard to the KDSS placement with my kit and full fat 35/12.5-17 tires.

Short answer is no, it is about 2mm into the tread pattern on the sidewall on the passenger side. The drivers clears it with about 1mm to spare.
This is at full lock and held there for measurements, using the 35/12.5-17 ridge grappler with aggressive side out (full disclosure..)

So ET35 or below is recommended at this point until I can get some other data points.
Or 35/11.5’s would work at ET50 from my measurements.

I also realigned the truck and added as much caster as my non-adjustable OME UCA’s will allow, which so far has eliminated the slight interference with the body mount…
I’m still probably going to chop it, since it’s close but not touching when reversing at lock

Which was the only time it interfered actually before the alignment and then by only 1-2mm at worst.

Disclaimer, every truck is going to slightly different but not hugely so I feel.

Uwharrie/OEX testing will be next so I can see what else needs to be changed, rear bump stops I feel for certain, and already have a set of Timbren active off-road bump stops on the front in the rearward position.
 
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rlynch356 said:
I spent some time today removing the 1.25” spacers from my rock warriors to judge if ET50 was possible with regard to the KDSS placement with my kit and full fat 35/12.5-17 tires.

Short answer is no, it is about 2mm into the tread pattern on the sidewall on the passenger side. The drivers clears it with about 1mm to spare.
This is at full lock and held there for measurements, using the 35/12.5-17 ridge grappler with aggressive side out (full disclosure..)

So ET35 or below is recommended at this point until I can get some other data points.
Or 35/11.5’s would work at ET50 from my measurements.

I also realigned the truck and added as much caster as my non-adjustable OME UCA’s will allow, which so far has eliminated the slight interference with the body mount…
I’m still probably going to chop it, since it’s close but not touching when reversing at lock

Which was the only time it interfered actually before the alignment and then by only 1-2mm at worst.

Disclaimer, every truck is going to slightly different but not hugely so I feel.

Uwharrie/OEX testing will be next so I can see what else needs to be changed, rear bump stops I feel for certain, and already have a set of Timbren active off-road bump stops on the front in the rearward position.
Click to expand...
Have you considered the Perry Parts bumpstops? From everything I’ve gathered, they are a better solution allowing a different function at high speed, more resistance, and full compression at slow speed.

He has given a lot of supporting test results on his Instagram channel testing his bumpstops to others.

Worth a look.
 
thanks, look like a solid option.
I've already purchased Timbren active off-road bump stops though but had I known I might have gone this route. they are easily 1/2 the price.
 
rlynch356 said:
thanks, look like a solid option.
I've already purchased Timbren active off-road bump stops though but had I known I might have gone this route. they are easily 1/2 the price.
Click to expand...
And Patrick will work with you to do custom options if needed too 👍🏼
 
Update:
All current Orders will be shipping early next week, and I will have stock of the full kits, the frame bracket, and LCA link spacers. As of right now I am not going to supply the 110mm bolts outside of the kit, since they are meant to work with the LCA skid to retain the sway bar link and bushing in double shear.

Still working on instructions.. been a busy couple of weeks :)
 
Shipping update for all current orders:
All Current orders will be shipped Monday 1/14/25.

I will have stock on hand as well for both the KDSS Max Kit and the Bracket only. Kits available have been updated in the store, I will allow back orders as we make batch #2.. which depending on demand will be bigger. I will post an ETA when it comes to that.

Just finalizing the Hardware kits... Instructions will be a 1st draft, as I need to get time to take my truck apart to take install pictures but it's pretty self explanatory..

I made some running changes on the LCA skid to allow for more "wiggle room" when you line up the End link -> Spacer -> LCA threads.. Feedback is always welcome..

You will need to loosen your KDSS valves... so always good to check those out before you need to loosen them 3 turns..
 
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Shipping 1/14/25 — this Monday

IMG_3708.jpeg


IMG_3707.jpeg
 
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everything packed and will be in the mail tomorrow, notifications sent.

If anyone was wondering what the difference was between my KDSS relocation bracket (mounts on the frame) and the others is?

Here you go..

Mine is natural aluminum in these pictures.
IMG_3712.jpeg

IMG_3713.jpeg


This is the Max you can move the KDSS Swaybar mount forward.

It is meant to be mounted on the other side of the LCA Mounting bracket.. I do not suggest mounting the end link in the stock position using my bracket..

Really.. I don't like to sell the bracket only but know there are many who have the end link outside the LCA bracket mod already and this will give you everything that it can yield, and keep your geometry as close to factory as is possible..

The LCA "skid" is really designed to protect the bushing and contain the end link in case of bushing failure, as the factory bracket does... It's a Skid plate as secondary function, mostly because it needs to mount to the 3 points on the LCA, that allows it's function as a Skid plate... But honestly a LCA skid plate is not really needed in 98% of circumstances.. but you do need to contain the end link in the event of failure.. Hence the full kit.. and why I think it is better..

I made it from Aluminum to minimize unsprung weight, since it is 1/2 of so the weight of a steel piece..

I will sending an email to everyone who ordered on with the install instructions, it's a Rev 1, and I would greatly welcome feedback on it so I can improve on later versions.

Same goes with the parts... what's good, what need changed, etc... All welcome..





FWIW.... If anyone is interested.. Dakar 2025...

My Land Rover 14cux ECU chip is running in this truck Profile of HERVE SOLANDT - TEAM BOUCOU - Dakar - https://www.dakar.com/en/competitor/723
and there are a couple of 70 series running as well, Including a 73 and a troopy in the classic division...
(I'm not affiliated with them but it's great to see them running!! maybe one day.. )


Cheers!
 
Everything is installed! I went with the full kit after reading about keeping the end links in double sheer.

Question: how much does the KDSS move in regular operation? I'm running the stock bumper currently and the driver's side end of the KDSS bar is dangerously close to the bumper and crash bar. Do I need to worry about this?
 
do you have a picture?

I just went and snapped this of the area I think you are talking about. This is with a CBI bumper which attaches to the crash bar mounting mounts. It will move on the vertical plane but there should be no lateral movement..

.
IMG_3723.jpeg
 
It will move vertically for sure, and looks like it will hit given that is a totally stock bumper setup vs a high clearance aftermarket bumper (ARB, Dissent, Slee, etc).


Were you going to do a front bumper, or planning to cut?

shoot me an email & we can figure it out...
 
Same here. I was going to install this weekend but I’ll probably wait to see how this shakes out…
 
Will definitely check back in once I've made the necessary clearance mods. At a minimum it looks like I'm going to need to trim the bumper cover as well as take some material off the crash bar. Hopefully will have that done today.

Something to keep in mind: I have a 1" body lift installed and as part of that effort I had to shift the crash bar up 1" so that everything would go back together. Without that extra inch I would almost certainly be hitting the crash bar, and I'm not sure I would have been able to complete the install without clearancing. As it stands now I have about .25-.5" of vertical clearance on level terrain with all four wheels on the ground.

Preliminary recommendation would be anyone running the stock bumper to plan on making clearance mods. I would probably recommend removing your bumper shell and crash bar prior to installing the KDSS relocation kit, that way everything is already off the truck and you can make your clearance mods after getting the KDSS in its final location. Otherwise, I'm not sure you'll be able to get everything buttoned up.

More to come!
 
Alrighty, so here's the deal: for stock applications (factory tupperware, and no other mods) I definitely recommend removing the bumper cover and crash bar before installing the relocation kit. This is due to the fact that it shifts the bar so far forward that it will interfere with the crash bar. Having the bumper and crash bar removed will allow you to fit the KDSS kit and then cut material from the crash bar to give the KDSS enough clearance. The bumper cover will also require some trimming.

Do I like that I had to mod the crash bar? No. Do I think it's likely still rigid enough to protect in a collision? Probably. There is a ton of bracing and structure to the crash bar, even with the material I removed. But it's one of those "proceed at your own risk" types of things. It's worth it to me to be able to retain the stock bumper for a while longer while I investigate aftermarket bumpers.

I will provide a full review of this kit once I have everything back together. In the meantime, here are a couple photos of the cuts I made.

Oh, and make sure to wear proper PPE and check the dates on your cut-off wheels! =D

20250125_133345.jpg


20250125_130931.jpg


20250125_130716.jpg


20250125_133423.jpg
 
Thanks for the follow up, It seems that I need to make a version that does not push it so far forward for a stock bumper truck. which would basically loose the extra 1/2" forward.

That was not originally envisioned since fitting bigger tires with a stock bumper becomes much, much harder in general vs a high clearance bumper.

I would say that modification to the crash bar is going to be needed for stock bumper trucks.
 
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