Katit's LX470 2000 - take #2 (2 Viewers)

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Sprayed on 1.5 layers of paint, then dry a little with blow gun and layer of clear. Steering wheel is still glossy (not dry). Is it perfect? No. Is it million times better? Yes. You can see some what looks like dirt specs. It's old-ish paint. I didn't strain it. And TBH I just did half ass job so I can install it.

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Telling you.. This car testing my patience :)

Today I got stereo buttoned up, steering wheel on. Ready for small test drive. I put it in R to get out of garage - shudders like misfire. Same in Drive. In parking - sounds good. Actually it's doing it when parked too, see video. When get it up in RPMs - you can hear 'dadadadada"
No CEL :( Can I see this in Tech stream? Where should I look?



Another issue - leaking rear hitch seal. Did anybody have this issue? I found water under rear carpet, so today I got hose out and started to pour on top. Water seem to get under the seal. I wonder if I should re-glue it? I had it out while working on interior, maybe glue also serving as water barrier..
 
Telling you.. This car testing my patience :)

Today I got stereo buttoned up, steering wheel on. Ready for small test drive. I put it in R to get out of garage - shudders like misfire. Same in Drive. In parking - sounds good. Actually it's doing it when parked too, see video. When get it up in RPMs - you can hear 'dadadadada"
No CEL :( Can I see this in Tech stream? Where should I look?



Another issue - leaking rear hitch seal. Did anybody have this issue? I found water under rear carpet, so today I got hose out and started to pour on top. Water seem to get under the seal. I wonder if I should re-glue it? I had it out while working on interior, maybe glue also serving as water barrier..

Are you sure it is not the central brake light seal that's leaking?
 
Kid you not. This car messing with me.
Yesterday I got Techstream hooked up, car starts like a champ. Drives like a champ. No misfires, all look great.

But I got adapter so installed fuel pressure gauge. 42psi is correct pressure? If so - all is well. It drops by maybe 1-2psi when revving, other than that - all good.
However, pressure is 0 in a morning.

I will leave gauge permanent and monitor. Next thing - waiting for new rear seal and going to finish baselining with all fluids. Drove it to work today.

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I think that is correct.

Fuel pressure
Fuel pressure at no vacuum 265 - 304 kPa
(2.7 - 3.1 kgf/cm2, 38 - 44 psi)

Fuel pump Resistance at 20°C (68°F) 0.2 - 3.0 W
Injector Resistance at 20°C (68°F)
 
my 2000 lx470 does the exact same thing. on cold starts and before it warms up, if i shift into drive or reverse it will stutter almost like a misfire but it throws no codes. if i shift back into neutral it goes away. curious so see if you resolve this.
 
my 2000 lx470 does the exact same thing. on cold starts and before it warms up, if i shift into drive or reverse it will stutter almost like a misfire but it throws no codes. if i shift back into neutral it goes away. curious so see if you resolve this.
I will. Mine was not really "cold" startup. But it was parked for weeks. I suspect it might be issue with transmission torque converter locking up. At least this is what I found mentioned.

In my case it doesn't do it now that I drove it. I am going to replace fluid soon and re-set level. Really hope it won't come back..
 
Another issue - leaking rear hitch seal. Did anybody have this issue? I found water under rear carpet, so today I got hose out and started to pour on top.

I had this same issue... it drove me absolutely bonkers. Did all the usual suspects (3rd brake light, roof rack, sunroof drains, glass seal, pinch welds, etc)

It ended up being the hatch seal leaking right where the glass meets the tailgate. The original gasket was so deflated and compression it didn't have any "sealing pressure" left, if that makes sense. It only let a small drip in under certain conditions but I would eventually find my back carpet completely soaked.

Pic of where it was leaking:

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Just have to say I am in awe of this build and your skill to do it! New to the 100 series. Swapped out AC cabin filters yesterday and high fived myself all day. This is beyond next level.

Will be watching and learning! Thanks for posting. Great resource for those of us just getting started.
 
I figured if I do something every day - it will get done quick. Drove it to get fresh gas. Maybe some front end shimmy, but I am going to replace rims soon so will see if it's just tires.

Added fuel treatment, just in case if injectors need some cleaning.
Ran cleaner in oil for 15 minutes and then replaced engine oil.

Replaced rear diff fluid. It was pretty dark. Almost like "never replaced" dark.

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Every day, right? Driving it all the time now. Yesterday replaced:

Transfer case oil: Well, 1/2 quart came out from a filler plug? Why? Can transmission oil travel into there? Or maybe it was replaced (transfer case) and filled off the truck? I have no records of it. Puzzled how can you overfill like that.. Maybe lifted sideways on PS?
Oil came out pretty dirty, see pic. Not much metal shavings, so all is well, but proves my idea that it was never touched.

Front diff oil: This one was OK-ish on color, but what's weird I had a hiss and felt pressure when removed filler plug. I thought there is a breather hose on those?

And final "problem" for now. Now that I am driving it, remote key drives me CRAZY. Range is like you need to put key close to DS window to open/close. Mind you, I replaced all actuators, it's all working great. Just range is horrible.

So I started to read on this and found this topic:

This kind of make sense, and I can totally DIY this. But... How bad is bad? I mean I can't use remote from 10ft.

And then I read quote by @jLB
Not intending to rain on anybody’s parade. I have not tried this mod, and it may be a huge improvement.

I acquired a 1999 LX470 a few years ago, with just a valet key. I went through the ECU blanking process with @Mauser (thank you) to get a handful of working “master” keys with remote fobs. I used some cheap knock off keys from eBay as my master keys for this vehicle. While they did work, the range of the remote always seemed rather dismal compared to the other two later model 100 series in our driveway. I just figured that the range of the earlier models suck (it’s been a long time since I had a 98 LX).

In the “great YotaMD key conversion” at my house, where I converted all the remaining 100 series master keys to @suprarx7nut ‘s YotaMD shells, I ran across an old broken OE key fob in a “junk drawer”, that I opted to use in one of the 99 LX keys. What a night and day difference! I can lock/unlock the 99 LX halfway across the parking lot at work.

Extended antennas may be great, but aftermarket key fobs suck!

So, I have 2 issues now. I have all aftermarket fobs (key that I got had chip only). And, I have older model. And result is - almost no range.

I feel like I need to source used key fob, original one. Program it to my car and see how it goes first. And then I can get antenna mod done. Those things really drive me crazy and would make truck so much more useful.

Problem is - I don't know what fob to get. For example, guy on ebay sells this:

It's a remote fob ORIGINAL in aftermarket shell. Priced accordingly. So, OK, I get it. If thats what it is - then $100 might worth for a good working remote. But he specifically says in a listing: Make sure your key: FCC ID: HYQ1512V 315MHz CHIP 4C
And how do I know? I know chip is 4C, but what about FCC ID? And frequency?

Maybe resident gurus will chime in on this? @Mauser ? @Ayune ?


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Might be worth checking with the eBay seller to see if ey can provide any input into how to check?
Not sure if it might be on the fob electronics itself if you popped the covers off?
 
Might be worth checking with the eBay seller to see if ey can provide any input into how to check?
Not sure if it might be on the fob electronics itself if you popped the covers off?
I checked with eBay seller who sold me aftermarket keys, maybe he will be able to tell something.. Keys I got say CMII ID: 2005DJ1379 and I am not sure what it means. I wonder if wrong/incorrect type/frequency will even work? Because they do work. But bad range. So I am curious to know if problem is in bad FOBs that I got (cheap radio transmitter, etc) or it's wrong type.
 
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Another day. Installed new rear seal. No leaks at seal. But 3rd brake leaking like a ... So it's out to get cleaned off the remaining foam and I will be setting it on a butyl rope. I don't have any other more appropriate material nor ideas. Either silicone or butyl. Second will be easier to remove if needed.

My bad, I should have done it before, because when you take trim - it's dusty and dirty in there. Not just letting some water in. Since it's a second truck with exact same issue - whoever read it - just take it out and reseal, almost guarantee it is leaking. I think this is main reason why we see those rusted out rear hitches. From rainy states and cars parked outside.

Also, sides of this light rubbed through paint and light surface rust started. So I will need to clean/prime and take some plastic from edges and maybe come up with some gasket.

Seller of eBay key confirmed:
Unfortunately that is a downside of an aftermarket key, the strength of its battery and the vehicles receiving antenna.

So, my guess/statement above is correct. I guess I need to get and try programming OEM key.


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After driving for a few days truck started to get finicky again.

As you remember - I had issue with battery dying overnight. I did check battery - checks out OK with load tester.
Battery is from 2023
Checked drain - 25mA with no stereo, about 50mA with new stereo which is still OK and within normal threshold.

Unless there is some event that happen and I just don't catch it??

I am almost ready to just try and swap battery, BUT..
PO lady made a remark that she makes a point to drive truck every week at least to keep battery charged, because one battery died and she had to replace it.

That's what kind of keeps me from simply replacing battery.
Charging voltage is great.

Battery is like 12.4-12.5V right now and I just hear a "click"

SO.. My question. Can it be starter on a last leg that needs battery to be 100% topped up to activate?
 
After driving for a few days truck started to get finicky again.

As you remember - I had issue with battery dying overnight. I did check battery - checks out OK with load tester.
Battery is from 2023
Checked drain - 25mA with no stereo, about 50mA with new stereo which is still OK and within normal threshold.

Unless there is some event that happen and I just don't catch it??

I am almost ready to just try and swap battery, BUT..
PO lady made a remark that she makes a point to drive truck every week at least to keep battery charged, because one battery died and she had to replace it.

That's what kind of keeps me from simply replacing battery.
Charging voltage is great.

Battery is like 12.4-12.5V right now and I just hear a "click"

SO.. My question. Can it be starter on a last leg that needs battery to be 100% topped up to activate?
A failing starter can intermittently give trouble even when the battery is in tip top shape. Unfortunately, the starter replacement is not a quick job so I can't just casually recommed replacing the starter!
 
A failing starter can intermittently give trouble even when the battery is in tip top shape. Unfortunately, the starter replacement is not a quick job so I can't just casually recommed replacing the starter!
Yeah.. I did replace starter in 2001 I had so I know exactly what it is. Actually I didn't replace it, I rebuilt it. Might just have to do the same here... There is no history of starter replacement, maybe it's time.

Will probably swap a battery just because and see where it goes.. Any suggestions on which battery to get?
 
I am running a group 31 commercial acid battery from batteries plus. You can check out my build thread for specifics
 

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