Katit's LX470 2000 - take #2

[katit]

First step - car washed and clay bar cleaned. There was a LOT of clay bar. Like it was al oversprayed or something.

Every single nick identified and getting ground(if rust) and primed/painted with touchup

 

[katit]

Something like that. After clay/touchup/polish/wax. All new chrome emblems (used to be faded gold)
Still need to replace rims.

 

[LJE]

First step - car washed and clay bar cleaned. There was a LOT of clay bar. Like it was al oversprayed or something.

View attachment 3665332

Every single nick identified and getting ground(if rust) and primed/painted with touchup

View attachment 3665333

Whats your preferred tool to remove rust/prep small nicks/dings/rockchip sized things?

 

[katit]

Whats your preferred tool to remove rust/prep small nicks/dings/rockchip sized things?

I don't really go for showroom finish, so it's simple. Just a dremel tool and touchup. I grind until I see metal, then prime, then paint.
Actually my daughter did it, so it's learning process for her. For nicks thats not through and no rust - just use touchup paint with toothpick

 

[katit]

I didn't look for this at all

 

[uHu]

It's impressive and touching to see how much work you put in, all the problems you find and fix. A real inspiration for us of the more laid back type (or is it just plain laziness). Thank you very much for sharing. Keep it coming.

 

[katit]

It's impressive and touching to see how much work you put in, all the problems you find and fix. A real inspiration for us of the more laid back type (or is it just plain laziness). Thank you very much for sharing. Keep it coming.

Main problem, which I am not about to "fix" - is disabled AHC. Unfortunately.

 

[katit]

Well.. Not sure if it's good or bad. All VSC/Brake/Trak lights on and I was going to check what error I got...
System "not responding" or "not available"

Any pointers on where it's located? I understand it's one of few things:
1. Fuse
2. Damaged ECU/module (water?)
3. Wiring/connector damage (water?)

I had it happen before, just one time I was pulling out of garage it did it, but then all was fine. Now I have it for a full date with no luck

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Do you also get a loud buzzing sound?

 

[katit]

No sound but I don’t get any sounds in car. Another thing?!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

You will have to search for it, but I saw someone installed a second battery tray where AHC reservoir/pump is on LX and somehow knocked off a connection that caused ABS module to disconnect.
May look on that side and see if you see something disconnected? Sorry I don't have a link to that post but can look it up later.

 

[katit]

Looks like module is dead.

 

[katit]

Now what?? Driving for a week - puddle under FL wheel. And paint all bubbled on frame which I fixed before.
So, brake fluid does leak and I didn't realize it was pre-existing issue.

It was over max and now below min. Best I can tell it's leaking from front of MC. ANd I can tell someone already was there - from damaged nut. Dang!

What is your resolution on this? Is it common issue?

I did order full MC $1100 assembly from Decatur on July 4 sale "just in case". Is the THE CASE??

 

[katit]

Situation get's worse. I don't know what kind of hack was working on this truck, but dude, please stop. Just retire or something...

I was going to move truck from parking to garage so I start working on it - no brakes, pedal on floor, barely stopping. My daughter was driving it this week. She said "dad, I wanted to tell you brakes are bad". Bad??? I don't know how she survived and didn't get into accident. This is ridiculous..

Remember - all lights ABS/BRAKE/TRAK came on earlier? But I drove and was OK. And I did hook up Techstream and there was no errors and module would't communicate so I made a conclusion it is OK until I get module fixed.

Now.. I am taking this thing apart. New master should arrive within a week. First I see - ABS module is held by one nut. So, someone was there...

Keep working, removing lines, etc. Brake lines were not lose, but not tightened how I would tighten them, but OK..

Next - inside. Need to remove 4 nuts and a pin with clip. First thing - there is no clip. Bolt instead. THANK YOU for at least putting nut on. This is very nice of you. No, this bolt wouldn't walk out and no, I wouldn't lose brakes...

Next I see something really bad.. But wait. Now I got master removed and this is what I see..
Gasket?? What gasket?

I guess story went like this. They decided they need new master. Then, they got wrong master and it didn't fit. So, why can't we just drill some new holes? Makes sense, right?

I don't know. I am lost as to what is going on there. When I got it - there was brakes. Pump was running too often (but might be subjective), but it was pumping within 30 seconds. Blead brakes fine, all was fine.

It WAS leaking before, because paint on frame was all gone. But if they did replace master and it was correct replacement, then why it failed now? I ma just scratching my head here.

Well, at least now I am getting new master, I will put toyota fluid, I will take care of ABS module. What else can go wrong? Lines look good..

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Situation get's worse. I don't know what kind of hack was working on this truck, but dude, please stop. Just retire or something...

I was going to move truck from parking to garage so I start working on it - no brakes, pedal on floor, barely stopping. My daughter was driving it this week. She said "dad, I wanted to tell you brakes are bad". Bad??? I don't know how she survived and didn't get into accident. This is ridiculous..

Remember - all lights ABS/BRAKE/TRAK came on earlier? But I drove and was OK. And I did hook up Techstream and there was no errors and module would't communicate so I made a conclusion it is OK until I get module fixed.

Now.. I am taking this thing apart. New master should arrive within a week. First I see - ABS module is held by one nut. So, someone was there...


View attachment 3676903


Keep working, removing lines, etc. Brake lines were not lose, but not tightened how I would tighten them, but OK..

Next - inside. Need to remove 4 nuts and a pin with clip. First thing - there is no clip. Bolt instead. THANK YOU for at least putting nut on. This is very nice of you. No, this bolt wouldn't walk out and no, I wouldn't lose brakes...
View attachment 3676902


Next I see something really bad.. But wait. Now I got master removed and this is what I see..
Gasket?? What gasket?

I guess story went like this. They decided they need new master. Then, they got wrong master and it didn't fit. So, why can't we just drill some new holes? Makes sense, right?

I don't know. I am lost as to what is going on there. When I got it - there was brakes. Pump was running too often (but might be subjective), but it was pumping within 30 seconds. Blead brakes fine, all was fine.

It WAS leaking before, because paint on frame was all gone. But if they did replace master and it was correct replacement, then why it failed now? I ma just scratching my head here.

Well, at least now I am getting new master, I will put toyota fluid, I will take care of ABS module. What else can go wrong? Lines look good..

View attachment 3676901

View attachment 3676900

View attachment 3676919

Dude that is infuriating! This is how trucks get junked - this one is lucky to have landed in your lap.

 

[katit]

Yes. I wonder if I should look at front bearings. Axles were replaced. But someone liked hus hammer a lot, flanges got beat up so the wheels barely get on/off

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Yes. I wonder if I should look at front bearings. Axles were replaced. But someone liked hus hammer a lot, flanges got beat up so the wheels barely get on/off

At least lift the front up and check for vertical and horizontal play. If the spin smooth and have no vertical play then that can wait

 

[uHu]

No end to trouble. Hope you get the brakes sorted. What a mess.
About the front wheel bearings: That's a very rewarding job, repacking bearings, new C-clips, new inner seal, new cones and bolts, new cap. Adjust to a perfect break-away force. It feels soo good to have control in an area where there are only solid, mechanical parts that are easily understandable. And don't forget the spindle bearings.

 

[katit]

No end to trouble. Hope you get the brakes sorted. What a mess.
About the front wheel bearings: That's a very rewarding job, repacking bearings, new C-clips, new inner seal, new cones and bolts, new cap. Adjust to a perfect break-away force. It feels soo good to have control in an area where there are only solid, mechanical parts that are easily understandable. And don't forget the spindle bearings.

I am familiar with a job, just don't want to go to rabbit hole with all of this just yet. Especially that there is more of "other" stuff that really needs to be take care of. Wheel has no play, will let it be for now.

 

[katit]

Guess what? This truck can't seize to amaze me. I was like "while waiting for parts, lets do small things". On a list - bad parking brake. Was making noise, and wasn't working that good. So, let's adjust.

Right side, looks good, actually looks fresh. Got it cleaned, ready to go.
Left side. taking disk off - dang. One pin "de-pinned" and one shoe got kinked. Damaged disk surface, damaged shoe.

So, because it's "me" - I need new rotor. New rotor - mine as well put good pads. Have to do it in pairs.. Here we go - rear brakes R&R