Red Fox Ranch
SILVER Star
Nice find man, It's really cool to see one that original... whatever you had to give, just remember they ain't making any more! Get them while you can, you can't take the $$$ with you when you go!
Builds Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB
- Thread starter DomSmith
- Start date
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Very cool ride. I agree with your suspension and tire idea. I run 33x10.5 bfg mudders at 20 lbs and the ome suspension and I think it's much smoother. Beware that Man-a-fre doesn't know anything about the correct rear springs for a 45 pickup. I had to remove 4 leafs from both sides to get it to articulate.
Get that thing going so we can do the 45 run next summer.
Mike
Get that thing going so we can do the 45 run next summer.
Mike
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,467
- Messages
- 36,654
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Great to meet you at SNT Dom. See you tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #64
Thanks Mike. Maybe I can get by to look at your rig soon. I'd like to poke around a few to get familiar with all the knobs and controls, etc.
I'll be in touch.
- Thread starter
- #65
Great to meet you at SNT Dom. See you tomorrow.
Nice to meet you too Mark and looking forward to coming by the shop. I'm actually at work until Wednesday morning so I'll come by then. What time are you at the shop?
Made it home fine in the 40, but need to take a look at the whole front end after SnT. Not too sure if I was lucky enough to only have bent the knuckle arms.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
hey dom.
thanks for the pm. it was good to put a name with a face at SNT!
hope our quicky-alignment worked out well and your front tires made the trip home unscathed!
as far as the marker lenses go, they susually fade over time when exposed to the sun. if you remove the three screws, you'll usually find that there's a little orange pigment left in the lenses.
if you prefer the clear lense-look, steve kopito makes reproduction clear lenses. steve doee nice work and he's on here as well. on top of that, he's not too far from you in socal!
thanks for the pm. it was good to put a name with a face at SNT!
hope our quicky-alignment worked out well and your front tires made the trip home unscathed!
as far as the marker lenses go, they susually fade over time when exposed to the sun. if you remove the three screws, you'll usually find that there's a little orange pigment left in the lenses.
if you prefer the clear lense-look, steve kopito makes reproduction clear lenses. steve doee nice work and he's on here as well. on top of that, he's not too far from you in socal!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
hmm, when are you guys coming to colorado? I feel left out!
See ya,
Dallas
See ya,
Dallas
- Thread starter
- #69
So I decided to tear apart the Carter Carb and do a quick rebuild.
I haven't rebuilt a carb in about 10 years so I took tons of pics in case I didn't remember where anything went.
Before...
As you can see from the picture above the choke and throttle cable attachment was not ideal. The threads were stripped so I decided to use a new bolt with nut to secure it tightly.
Pulled it all apart and then into the parts washer...
The body came out pretty nice. Here's mid-rebuild...
Final product...
I haven't rebuilt a carb in about 10 years so I took tons of pics in case I didn't remember where anything went.
Before...
As you can see from the picture above the choke and throttle cable attachment was not ideal. The threads were stripped so I decided to use a new bolt with nut to secure it tightly.
Pulled it all apart and then into the parts washer...
The body came out pretty nice. Here's mid-rebuild...
Final product...
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- Thread starter
- #70
Just after re-installing the carb I had a few driveability issues. It no longer idled very well and seemed to be at a different idle each time.
I determined I had quite a big leak at the base of the carb where the new base gasket was and snugged it down about as tight as I dared and that helped.
I also had to re-work the throttle/choke cable attachment as mentioned in the last post. Initially I re-used the screw in a partially stripped hole and it just loosened up. This caused the choke to move all over the place and changed the idle wildly. I eventually used a screw with a bolt on the bottom end to secure the throttle/choke cable bracket.
I also noticed that the oil cooler line (from the base of the carb to the oil filler) was collapsed. The PO had heater hose on there and it just sucked shut. I sourced 1/2" Oil Cooler hose and it solved the problem. I also added the PVC (?) hose which was missing from the air cleaner to the valve cover.
I determined I had quite a big leak at the base of the carb where the new base gasket was and snugged it down about as tight as I dared and that helped.
I also had to re-work the throttle/choke cable attachment as mentioned in the last post. Initially I re-used the screw in a partially stripped hole and it just loosened up. This caused the choke to move all over the place and changed the idle wildly. I eventually used a screw with a bolt on the bottom end to secure the throttle/choke cable bracket.
I also noticed that the oil cooler line (from the base of the carb to the oil filler) was collapsed. The PO had heater hose on there and it just sucked shut. I sourced 1/2" Oil Cooler hose and it solved the problem. I also added the PVC (?) hose which was missing from the air cleaner to the valve cover.
- Thread starter
- #71
The oil canister leak I mentioned before has not been a problem at all after using a little black RTV at he base of the canister. I'm still not certain that all the parts are corrrect but it works so for now that will have to do.
The coolant leak has resolved itself as well. After talking to Shane we determined it was probably the water pump weep hole and it has not reared it's ugly head since I've been driving around town.
Also replaced the fan belt as the old one was badly worn.
The coolant leak has resolved itself as well. After talking to Shane we determined it was probably the water pump weep hole and it has not reared it's ugly head since I've been driving around town.
Also replaced the fan belt as the old one was badly worn.
- Thread starter
- #72
Carb start?
After first installing the rebuilt carb it took a long time to get it to start. At first I chalked this up to the empty carb bowl and after a long period of trying it did start up. This is when it did not run well. Before I found the vacuum leak and oil cooler hose I thought it might have to do with this piece where the needle valve resides (sorry for my lack of terminology)...
The one on the right is the old one and I had replaced it with the one on the left (from the rebuild kit). The inner diameter looked identical so I wasn't too worried. But after the idle issues I dropped the old one back in with the new needle valve with no change. Then I found the vacuum and hose issues and it's much better.
Does this matter much?
Now after the rig sits overnight it is hard to start. I have to crank it over for several minutes before it fires up. It seems like it's starved for fuel. Once started it runs fine and will start for the rest of the day without issue but continues to be a hard start each time it sits for a day or two.
Any suggestions?
After first installing the rebuilt carb it took a long time to get it to start. At first I chalked this up to the empty carb bowl and after a long period of trying it did start up. This is when it did not run well. Before I found the vacuum leak and oil cooler hose I thought it might have to do with this piece where the needle valve resides (sorry for my lack of terminology)...
The one on the right is the old one and I had replaced it with the one on the left (from the rebuild kit). The inner diameter looked identical so I wasn't too worried. But after the idle issues I dropped the old one back in with the new needle valve with no change. Then I found the vacuum and hose issues and it's much better.
Does this matter much?
Now after the rig sits overnight it is hard to start. I have to crank it over for several minutes before it fires up. It seems like it's starved for fuel. Once started it runs fine and will start for the rest of the day without issue but continues to be a hard start each time it sits for a day or two.
Any suggestions?
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- Thread starter
- #73
Met my truck's brother at SnT. One number off! 
Wish I had had more time to chat and check out the rig but we were dealing with a few "issues" all weekend. Next year the 45 will be road worthy and hopefully we'll have a reunion.
Wish I had had more time to chat and check out the rig but we were dealing with a few "issues" all weekend. Next year the 45 will be road worthy and hopefully we'll have a reunion.
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Just too cool!!!
BTW your carb looks great...you get her right yet?
BTW your carb looks great...you get her right yet?
- Thread starter
- #75
Did I mention all the lights work?
Turn signals, brake lights, headlights, even the hi-beam switch! Interior light too.
I didn't have to mess with the grounds at all (although I do plan on cleaning all that up soon). I did have to pull the horn button and clean up all the metal to get that to work but sure enough it did! As you can imagine the small rubber contact gasket disintegrated. I pieced it back together just to keep the horn from blasting all the time but now that's on my list of replacement parts too.
I also have a big seal leak at the front of the transmission...
It's definitely coming from the front of the tranny where it attaches to the bellhousing. I thought it would be a small one but after about three days here's what I got...
I'm guessing once it gets to a level below the seal it'll stop for now.
Turn signals, brake lights, headlights, even the hi-beam switch! Interior light too.
I didn't have to mess with the grounds at all (although I do plan on cleaning all that up soon). I did have to pull the horn button and clean up all the metal to get that to work but sure enough it did! As you can imagine the small rubber contact gasket disintegrated. I pieced it back together just to keep the horn from blasting all the time but now that's on my list of replacement parts too.
I also have a big seal leak at the front of the transmission...
It's definitely coming from the front of the tranny where it attaches to the bellhousing. I thought it would be a small one but after about three days here's what I got...
I'm guessing once it gets to a level below the seal it'll stop for now.
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- Thread starter
- #76
Dean-
Carb is good for now once it starts but as mentioned, it takes a long time to get it going once it's been sitting for a day or two...
Carb is good for now once it starts but as mentioned, it takes a long time to get it going once it's been sitting for a day or two...
Did I mention all the lights work?
Turn signals, brake lights, headlights, even the hi-beam switch! Interior light too.
I didn't have to mess with the grounds at all (although I do plan on cleaning all that up soon). I did have to pull the horn button and clean up all the metal to get that to work but sure enough it did! As you can imagine the small rubber contact gasket disintegrated. I pieced it back together just to keep the horn from blasting all the time but now that's on my list of replacement parts too.
I also have a big seal leak at the front of the transmission...
It's definitely coming from the front of the tranny where it attaches to the bellhousing. I thought it would be a small one but after about three days here's what I got...
I'm guessing once it gets to a level below the seal it'll stop for now.
That looks like coolant and not oil to me. My guess is the coolant is blowing back so it looks like it is coming from your tranny but it is really coming from your radiator or water pump. In my limited experience once the water pump starts leaking from the weep hole is not long for this world. I would start there.
- Thread starter
- #78
Finally got around to cleaning things up. I started with the "original" headliner...
I used a shop vac and removed all the lining. Then I wiped it down to remove any left overs. Now it's down to bare metal.
Next I cleaned up all the loose items on the floor and behind the seats. Found a few interesting things...
Old school flares...
Old Toyota knuckle shims?...
Broken FD knob that was missing from the dash...
And after shop vacing the floor and cleaning up with a little simple green the floor board looks pretty good.
I used a shop vac and removed all the lining. Then I wiped it down to remove any left overs. Now it's down to bare metal.
Next I cleaned up all the loose items on the floor and behind the seats. Found a few interesting things...
Old school flares...
Old Toyota knuckle shims?...
Broken FD knob that was missing from the dash...
And after shop vacing the floor and cleaning up with a little simple green the floor board looks pretty good.
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- Thread starter
- #79
The picture is a bit deceiving. It is definitely gear oil. I thought it was motor oil at first but it's gear oil. I'm thinking the front retainer seal must be bad on the 3 speed.
Your hard starting after sitting over night could be the fuel pump. I imagine the diaphragm is probably stiff or the check valves are not seating and leting the fuel run back into the feed line. When you go to start it, you are repriming the system.
Just a guess.
Just a guess.
