Just Got Back From the Stereo Shop and Need Some Advice?

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Well Willis, the stereo shop is also in the business of selling amps, the price might be the same but the profit margin might not be. ;)

But a new bose system in a stock car is certainly nothing to be proud of! They are notoriously terrible. I have a bose system in my $100k car and I guarantee my stereo in my LX450 sounds better, has better bass response, can be much louder and the mids and highs are clear.

Lots of ways to skin a cat, but like I said if you're going to run two amps in the back, you will need to run a lot more heavy gauge power wire, speaker wires, RCA cables, distribution block, etc. If you are really going to run two huge amps, are you upgrading your alternator? If not you will probably get dimming issues as well as amps that can't support their full power.

The biggest 12" sub I saw on Alpine's site is 1000w-3000w so lets say the installer is going to power it with 1200w, that is 83amps at 14.4v, I believe the 80 series alternator is only rated at 80amps....

There are some great audio shops out there, there are also some that don't do much research and just try and sell you the most expensive components without looking at the system as a whole. He might not know that the 80 series alternator is pretty underpowered compared to most new SUV's
 
Well Willis, the stereo shop is also in the business of selling amps, the price might be the same but the profit margin might not be. ;)

But a new bose system in a stock car is certainly nothing to be proud of! They are notoriously terrible. I have a bose system in my $100k car and I guarantee my stereo in my LX450 sounds better, has better bass response, can be much louder and the mids and highs are clear.

Lots of ways to skin a cat, but like I said if you're going to run two amps in the back, you will need to run a lot more heavy gauge power wire, speaker wires, RCA cables, distribution block, etc. If you are really going to run two huge amps, are you upgrading your alternator? If not you will probably get dimming issues as well as amps that can't support their full power.

The biggest 12" sub I saw on Alpine's site is 1000w-3000w so lets say the installer is going to power it with 1200w, that is 83amps at 14.4v, I believe the 80 series alternator is only rated at 80amps....

There are some great audio shops out there, there are also some that don't do much research and just try and sell you the most expensive components without looking at the system as a whole. He might not know that the 80 series alternator is pretty underpowered compared to most new SUV's
Thanks Scott,
The high-end speakers are in the doors and the 12" is only 750 watts. Based on how he explained it and listening to the system in his new M5 that is running the same two amps, it made sense to me.
 
Is it 750W RMS or peak? The only sub I found on Alpine's site that shows 750w was the Bass Line Sub which is 750w max, but only 250w RMS. Definitely no need for a second amp......

If it is the Bass Line sub is he giving you the 2 for 1 deal on them it is a promotion Alpine is running. Not that you would need 2, but if he is pushing that sub and not telling you he is probably "pocketing" the free sub.
 
Yes...that's the sub exactly. He's giving me the Bass Line for $89. I don't want too much bass but want to feel the thump when it's supposed to thump. I am more concerned with overall quality and balance of sound. He felt with 1 amp (from his experience) is that when you turn up the volume the 12" just overpowers everything else. With two (as he explained) it appears to handle the watt load more evenly and at the same price point it made sense to me.
 
As long as the 3rd row is out, the shop will have the panel off in 10 minutes.

I have the jump seat...will that need to be completely removed?
 
I have the jump seat...will that need to be completely removed?

Dude its a 5 minute job to remove both seats from the 3rd row and leave them at home before dropping off your truck for the install.
 
That makes no sense, you can adjust the gain for the sub independently. Hell on the Alpine headunit you can turn the sub off completely, because the sub has it's on RCA outs.

But I am not a "professional" ;) I am sure it will turn out great, I guess everyone just has their own preferences.
 
Alright...thanks guys, I'll take some pics and let you know how it turns out. Stock system freakin sucks!
 
You don't need to worry too much about the alternator not keeping up with a 1200 watt amp. Like many other loads on the truck, the battery will supply the peak demand to the amp that the alternator is unable to supply. I've had much larger systems on smaller alternators with no problem. Music is transient so the amp won't be drawing that much current all the time. If you're headlights do dim with bass you can always add a capacitor to smooth things out but I would wait to see if you really need it.
 
I have the Alpine 60Wx4, 250Wx1 - 5 channel amp installed in an E350 van with Alpine's best speakers in the front doors and in the rear cargo doors with a 10" sub in a box behind the driver's seat. Even in the van's low insulation, high volume cavity it sounds amazing. Turn the volume up and you can't hear the diesel, your phone, your significant other or even the blues behind you. I can't imagine needing more or the need to spend more. About to duplicate the system in the FZJ.
 
Personally I would go to another shop and see what their setup would be... not saying the shop you went to is wrong or trying to hose you but always better to get a second opinion.
 
depth in the front doors is limited - unless you get a shallow speaker, it will interfere with the window lifter or stick too much out of the door and look like ***
 
Pretty similar to what I have in my F250. I have a 4ch Alpine amp under the passenger seat, and a 2ch bridged to mono running my 2x10 Bag End sub box. I plan on doing essentially the same thing in my FZJ, planning on having to trim carpet under the seat to make it fit.)

I have some Polk mid-tweet modules that I'll put in the dash, and in the rear, and then some 5.25" speakers for the doors, (undecided on brand but likely Infinity or MB Quart. I won't be able to do as much sub as I'd like, but space is at a premium so a single 8 in the rear "sub-woofer" area.

Good choice on the Pioneer. Mess around with the parametric EQ's until you get the sound you like from your system. Usually the speakers will have a peak in the midrange between 1k and 2k. Pick a wide Q filter and bring it down 1 or 2 db or until the vocals start to loose that honk and clean up. You may want to add a little sizzle at 6k for some presence, or maybe not.

Post up the results.
 
depth in the front doors is limited - unless you get a shallow speaker, it will interfere with the window lifter or stick too much out of the door and look like ***

Because you're such the audiophile. :rolleyes::flipoff2:
 
After all the replies I did decide to talk to 2 other shops. Each said it would work either way, and the 2 amp configuration is better when going into more extreme ranges, but a single 5 channel Alpine amp would be just fine for what I'm looking for. I also talked myself down from 12" subwoofer to a single JL 10w3v3 sub. I hate when the bass is so damn strong it just rattles everything and takes away from all the other vibes going on. Thanks for the help!
 
After all the replies I did decide to talk to 2 other shops. Each said it would work either way, and the 2 amp configuration is better when going into more extreme ranges, but a single 5 channel Alpine amp would be just fine for what I'm looking for. I also talked myself down from 12" subwoofer to a single JL 10w3v3 sub. I hate when the bass is so damn strong it just rattles everything and takes away from all the other vibes going on. Thanks for the help!

Like said, the rear passenger area can fit a lot of amp. Plenty of space IMHO. My single JL W7 with 700w amp in the quarter is plenty for the average folks and hits hard when wanted.
 

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