Just get her drivable (2 Viewers)

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There’s obviously some confusion about this that is causing some misunderstanding.
Not hard to do with me that's why I asked, thought I might learn something new.

I was referring to onemanarmy,
From what I've read, it needs to be pointed at the #4 cylinder when #1 is at TDC compression.
That in my world would be about 60° advanced and would create exactly what he describes,
It cranks and idles fine, just pings bad under load.
 
So here’s mine. This is a GM HEI. #1 position on the cap is in line with #3 cylinder. If I pointed the rotor at #4 cylinder, it would be in line with #4 position on the cap, which would only work if I were setting the timing to #4 cylinder at TDC.

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So this is what I was talking about. The distributor has only so much adjustment due to the tab that the hold down bolt goes through. From what I've read here on mud for timing a 2F is to install the distributor with tbr rotor pointing at #4 cylinder. That is what I did and #1 on the cap (cap is numbered) is in line with the rotor.

Is this correct? I have #1 cylinder at TDC compression before installing the distributor.

It cranks and idles pretty good, acclerates well, but under load in third and fourth gear I get lots of pinging.

I'm working on the timing again as I type this.

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It has a slot in it like it would turn with a screwdriver, but I couldn't get mine to budge.
Reach through the spring with some vice grips and grab the unthreaded portion of the shaft, work it back and forth with lots of penetrating oil and try to get it to break free. Once you have everything dissembled the vice grips marks can be cleaned up with a file. Good chance you’ll need to weld a new nut on the back side anyway or run a tap through it at very least so I wouldn’t worry too much about saving that part if you need to use a cut off wheel to remove the assembly.

Good luck, I’ve had to remove three of them when I was prepping my hoods for my pigs.
 
I’m assuming you loosened the spring retainer/jam nut already, if not just grab the outside with a set of channel locks or tap it with a hammer and punch before you try to remove the shaft.
 

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