Can you post a pic of your pedal? Unless a 40 or 60 pedal bolts in, its probably easiest to modify yours.
Just get her drivable (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter onemanarmy
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- #182
Pedal assembly. Did 55s ever come with a throttle cable setup? From a quick search it appears they did, but can't get firm dates. I don't have a 40 pedal to compare to.
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Take a pic of the other side of the pedal in the engine where the linkage attaches.
Here’s a 60 pedal - the upper hand throttle arm works great for a cable mount, and gives the right amount of cable travel.
If you weld an upper arm to your pedal, 6-6.5” in length from the pivot point, you’ll have all the travel you need (that’s what the 60 pedal measures).
The Lokar universal cable has a clevis pin attachment that you can use if you make the extension out of flat stock or have a flat end.
If you weld an upper arm to your pedal, 6-6.5” in length from the pivot point, you’ll have all the travel you need (that’s what the 60 pedal measures).
The Lokar universal cable has a clevis pin attachment that you can use if you make the extension out of flat stock or have a flat end.
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- #185
Thanks for the details/pics. I should be able to handle that.
And found the missing nut for the fuel pump stud. After a trip to the store.
Starting to wire it up now, hope to test fire this weekend if most goes as planned.
And found the missing nut for the fuel pump stud. After a trip to the store.
Starting to wire it up now, hope to test fire this weekend if most goes as planned.
I think we connected that to the coil (+) wire.
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- #188
So injectors still aren't firing. Verified 12v to injectors with key on and when starting...pink wire connected to + on coil....(voltage at injectors drops to 10.5 volts when cranking, still above the 8v that tbe AFI instructions say is the lowest required). 12v constant fused hot is hooked up. Verified fuel is flowing when cranking. All other sensors are hooked up.
One more question...the 'cranking' signal wire....I hooked mine to the smaller single wire going to the starter. This correct? From the instructions, I gathered this wire is just for initial start up fuel mapping, and injectors should fire regardless of this wire being hooked up? Not quite sure. Regardless, it's hooked up. I hear no noise/clicks coming from the injectors at anytime.
Thanks
One more question...the 'cranking' signal wire....I hooked mine to the smaller single wire going to the starter. This correct? From the instructions, I gathered this wire is just for initial start up fuel mapping, and injectors should fire regardless of this wire being hooked up? Not quite sure. Regardless, it's hooked up. I hear no noise/clicks coming from the injectors at anytime.
Thanks
Yeah, the crank signal goes to the starter solenoid wire. Pretty sure this is to fire the injectors while starting.
If the injectors are getting voltage when cranking (but no voltage otherwise), and you are sure fuel is flowing through the system (but don’t see it coming out of the injectors themselves), I would probably test a fresh injector.
Maybe first call Norm at AFI. He’s very knowledgeable and helpful.
If the injectors are getting voltage when cranking (but no voltage otherwise), and you are sure fuel is flowing through the system (but don’t see it coming out of the injectors themselves), I would probably test a fresh injector.
Maybe first call Norm at AFI. He’s very knowledgeable and helpful.
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- #190
thanks.
I'll continue with the live updates.....I just kept triple checking everything and occasionally would try and crank it....well about the tenth time of tying to crank, the injectors started firing? Super weird. But they are pulsing/spraying fuel when cranking.
I was hoping to not have to deal with setting timing, as I set the #1 position on the cap and the rotor in the same spots as they were on the old distributor. I figured that would get me very close with the new distributor. However, while trying to crank it with fuel, its obvious timing is off, and will have to be reset.
Still....good news.
I'll continue with the live updates.....I just kept triple checking everything and occasionally would try and crank it....well about the tenth time of tying to crank, the injectors started firing? Super weird. But they are pulsing/spraying fuel when cranking.
I was hoping to not have to deal with setting timing, as I set the #1 position on the cap and the rotor in the same spots as they were on the old distributor. I figured that would get me very close with the new distributor. However, while trying to crank it with fuel, its obvious timing is off, and will have to be reset.
Still....good news.
Sounds like you're working through it, good job!
If they’re spraying fuel, they’re working. Sounds like a timing issue. Usually eyeball close will get it runnning. Are you 180 out by chance?
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- #193
I just took the distributor and spark plugs back out, and am cranking it over with the hand crank bar to try and get it to TDC.
Then will re-install distributor with the the rotor pointed to #1 on the cap and #1 on the cap pointed at the #4 cylinder, correct?
Then will re-install distributor with the the rotor pointed to #1 on the cap and #1 on the cap pointed at the #4 cylinder, correct?
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- #194
and its running.
gotta chase vacuum leaks and final adjustment of the timing, but it runs. Thanks for the help.
gotta chase vacuum leaks and final adjustment of the timing, but it runs. Thanks for the help.
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I had to cut my own gaskets from a sheet of bulk Remflex material to get rid of my vacuum leak between the AFI adapter and the intake.
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- #197
I remember reading that. Gonna check obvious spots first, but it may come to that for me as well.
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- #198
I had the crazy screaming vaccum leak that @wngrog did when first installing the TBI adapter.....so I did some investigating.....the 2 inside bolts that hold the adapter to the intake manifold thread all the way through into the air flow path, so those are the ones that need the RTV on the heads to seal up.....the outside 2 are only so deep....the supplied bolts are too long and won't allow the adapter to seal tight. So I cut those 2 down about a third of an inch (eyeballed, so not exactly sure) and that allowed the adapter to seal.
This cured 99% of the vacuum leaks, but I did buy some Remflex gasket sheet to be prepared. I may install that to make sure all leaks are sealed.
It's running now, pretty good...still dialing in the timing. It does run better and has a bit more low end grunt and no carb spitting and stuttering.
I plan on just getting a generic TBI air cleaner and spacer (the spacer is needed to fit over the injectors and work with the 'S' stud that is supplied. The air cleaner base is 5 1/8" FYI.
This cured 99% of the vacuum leaks, but I did buy some Remflex gasket sheet to be prepared. I may install that to make sure all leaks are sealed.
It's running now, pretty good...still dialing in the timing. It does run better and has a bit more low end grunt and no carb spitting and stuttering.
I plan on just getting a generic TBI air cleaner and spacer (the spacer is needed to fit over the injectors and work with the 'S' stud that is supplied. The air cleaner base is 5 1/8" FYI.
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- Thread starter
- #200
Thanks for that.
Read this just as I got back from the parts store getting a generic TBI air cleaner.
I'll take it back,.....ordering the mr. gasket kit p/n 6411G.....icing on the cake is that its about half the price of the generic air filter kit and spacer i bought.
Read this just as I got back from the parts store getting a generic TBI air cleaner.
I'll take it back,.....ordering the mr. gasket kit p/n 6411G.....icing on the cake is that its about half the price of the generic air filter kit and spacer i bought.
