- Thread starter
- #201
New fuel pump block off gasket and new bolts. Made my own plate. New bolts due to the old ones beobe too long once fuel pump was removed.
Just get her drivable (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter onemanarmy
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Also buy a spacer ring. I think 1” but have to check. The adapter kit needs the extra ring for the height of the tbi.
- Thread starter
- #203
Ok.. thanks. So the Mr gasket kit didn't have all you needed?
I bought some go fast (400mph) air cleaner spacers.... should do the trick.
Felt cheap and dirty buying these, but hopefully the 55 will forgive me.
I bought some go fast (400mph) air cleaner spacers.... should do the trick.
Felt cheap and dirty buying these, but hopefully the 55 will forgive me.
- Thread starter
- #205
Thanks again!
So was the supplied S stud for the air cleaner mounting long enough after the spacers were installed? @maxbob002 @wngrog
So was the supplied S stud for the air cleaner mounting long enough after the spacers were installed? @maxbob002 @wngrog
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Yes it worked. I screwed it in until the height worked, not all the way though. Also, I rethreaded the end of the s rod to use a stock breather wing nut.
- Thread starter
- #208
Awesome. Thanks. My air filter is the last piece of the puzzle. Glad a few of you had done the same install just a bit before me.
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Must have stock filter. The little round things are offensive.
- Thread starter
- #210
So it's running ok. Still a bit of sputtering at idle. Also, getting pinging/detonation under load in third and fourth. This is how I set my distributor in, with the marker dead on the BB. Does this look correct? It cranks and idles fine, just pings bad under load. Plugs are gapped at .035. I'm running regular 87 octane. Should the rotor be a bit more towards plug #4?
Also, my old fuel pump Location keeps weeping....new gasket and bolts can't get any tighter. Any tips there?
Also, my old fuel pump Location keeps weeping....new gasket and bolts can't get any tighter. Any tips there?
- Thread starter
- #211
This is how I modded my pedal. Flat bar about 6.5 inches welded on.
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You need to set your timing with a light. Not how it was before.
Make a good gasket out of a sheet Remflex
Make a good gasket out of a sheet Remflex
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Can’t be certain without consulting the manual , but IIRC, 7* advanced before TDC at 750 rpm. It’ll go more, just a cushion of preference - think mine’s at 10 or 12.
- Thread starter
- #214
yea...setting timing with a light, once I get it close.
Is that the correct orientation to install the dizzy....pointing at #4 cylinder? Should I take the dizzy back out and rotate the rotor a bit more towards the front of the engine when ? #1 on the cap matches up with the rotor.
Should I be looking for the timing 'line' or BB when setting the timing with the light? I set the indicator right on the BB when installing the distributor originally.
As it sits now, I got it running....it cranks and idles pretty good. I did not use a timing light, but rotated the distributor while it was running to somewhat dial in the idle smoothness and RPM. I turned the distributor top to the left and that got worse (way high RPM and rough idle), so then I turned the top to the right and it got better (lower RPM and slightly smoother idle), but I ran out of adjustment before it got 'perfect'. This is what is making me think I didn't install the distributor exactly right when putting it all back together. Does this make sense?
Is that the correct orientation to install the dizzy....pointing at #4 cylinder? Should I take the dizzy back out and rotate the rotor a bit more towards the front of the engine when ? #1 on the cap matches up with the rotor.
Should I be looking for the timing 'line' or BB when setting the timing with the light? I set the indicator right on the BB when installing the distributor originally.
As it sits now, I got it running....it cranks and idles pretty good. I did not use a timing light, but rotated the distributor while it was running to somewhat dial in the idle smoothness and RPM. I turned the distributor top to the left and that got worse (way high RPM and rough idle), so then I turned the top to the right and it got better (lower RPM and slightly smoother idle), but I ran out of adjustment before it got 'perfect'. This is what is making me think I didn't install the distributor exactly right when putting it all back together. Does this make sense?
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Rotor should be pointing at the #1 position on the cap at initial timing (0*) if your #1 piston is set at TDC on the firing cycle. Once timing is set to around 7* or more, it will be pointing closer to #4.
Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4
15(too young)
36(too old)
24(just right)
BTW, remove the vacuum advance line prior to setting the timing with a timing light. At an idle, the vacuum port used for the vacuum advance should have zero inches mercury. You can get different answers from everyone you talk to about what type of vacuum port to use for the vacuum advance. Personally, I use what I think is called timed(?) vacuum, which only produces vacuume at around 1500 - 2000 rpm, which was referred to as “cruising speed”. If you run manifold vacuum, it just runs advanced all the time, which by my understanding, is incorrect.
Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4
15(too young)
36(too old)
24(just right)
BTW, remove the vacuum advance line prior to setting the timing with a timing light. At an idle, the vacuum port used for the vacuum advance should have zero inches mercury. You can get different answers from everyone you talk to about what type of vacuum port to use for the vacuum advance. Personally, I use what I think is called timed(?) vacuum, which only produces vacuume at around 1500 - 2000 rpm, which was referred to as “cruising speed”. If you run manifold vacuum, it just runs advanced all the time, which by my understanding, is incorrect.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #216
The cap can only be installed one way. So you have to set the rotor first. From what I've read, it needs to be pointed at the #4 cylinder when #1 is at TDC compression. I got the BB to line up with the marker, cylinder 1 on compression, and installed the distributor as seem above. Is the rotor too far 'behind' #4 cylinder to get a decent base timing?
Also, this is a AFI setup, no vacuum lines on the distributor. Advance and retard are controlled via computer.
Per the AFI instructions, to set timing, you need to unplug the 'timing' wire (eliminates computer timing adjustment) when manually setting timing.....I tried this but then the engine would not crank. I plugged it back in and engine fired up. Not sure what is going on there either. So I tried to set timing with the wire connected. Maybe unplug the wire when the engine is running? The instructions were not that precise.
Also, this is a AFI setup, no vacuum lines on the distributor. Advance and retard are controlled via computer.
Per the AFI instructions, to set timing, you need to unplug the 'timing' wire (eliminates computer timing adjustment) when manually setting timing.....I tried this but then the engine would not crank. I plugged it back in and engine fired up. Not sure what is going on there either. So I tried to set timing with the wire connected. Maybe unplug the wire when the engine is running? The instructions were not that precise.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
If you don’t have power coming in from the coil or power for the module, I don’t see how it’s gonna fire.
As far as the rotor pointing at the actual #4 cylinder on the block, eh, maybe. That may be a starting reference point when installing a diz that wasn’t marked when it was pulled. If the hole for the #1 spark plug wire on the cap also orients there, then I would say yes. The diz is only going to have so much range for adjustment (your case may be different since you don’t have a vacuum advance housing). But whether the rotor is pointing at the #4 cylinder on the block or the #2 cylinder, the rotor HAS to line up with #1 on the cap when the engine is set to TDC on #1.
I can look when I get home to see where exactly that orients on the block, if that helps. But it sounds like you must be pretty close if it starts and runs without issue.
As far as the rotor pointing at the actual #4 cylinder on the block, eh, maybe. That may be a starting reference point when installing a diz that wasn’t marked when it was pulled. If the hole for the #1 spark plug wire on the cap also orients there, then I would say yes. The diz is only going to have so much range for adjustment (your case may be different since you don’t have a vacuum advance housing). But whether the rotor is pointing at the #4 cylinder on the block or the #2 cylinder, the rotor HAS to line up with #1 on the cap when the engine is set to TDC on #1.
I can look when I get home to see where exactly that orients on the block, if that helps. But it sounds like you must be pretty close if it starts and runs without issue.
Maybe one of you Toyota guys can help me understand the set top dead center firing order at number 4 on the cap thing.
I’m assuming that the Toyota 6 cylinder cap is divided into 60° divisions, so if getting the engine set to top dead center with number one cylinder and pointing the rotor at number four cylinder wouldn’t that set your static timing at 60° advanced using the 15(too young) 36(too old)24(just right) firing order?
Seems like if you were going to eyeball an advanced static timing at around 7° then it would be pointing closer to 1 slightly towards the number 4 side.
I’m assuming that the Toyota 6 cylinder cap is divided into 60° divisions, so if getting the engine set to top dead center with number one cylinder and pointing the rotor at number four cylinder wouldn’t that set your static timing at 60° advanced using the 15(too young) 36(too old)24(just right) firing order?
Seems like if you were going to eyeball an advanced static timing at around 7° then it would be pointing closer to 1 slightly towards the number 4 side.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
There’s obviously some confusion about this that is causing some misunderstanding.
When the engine is at TDC of cylinder 1, the rotor MUST point at #1 spark plug post on the CAP. That is the static timing. I think the confusion lies in that, at optimal distributor position, the #4 cylinder (the ACTUAL engine block #4 cylinder) is in line with #1 on the cap.
If you point the rotor at the #4 spark plug post on the cap, the distributor would be 30* advanced.
Does this make sense? I’ll post a pic when I get home of my HEI setup. I went through all of this, intimately, for about a week and a half, about 12ish years ago.
When the engine is at TDC of cylinder 1, the rotor MUST point at #1 spark plug post on the CAP. That is the static timing. I think the confusion lies in that, at optimal distributor position, the #4 cylinder (the ACTUAL engine block #4 cylinder) is in line with #1 on the cap.
If you point the rotor at the #4 spark plug post on the cap, the distributor would be 30* advanced.
Does this make sense? I’ll post a pic when I get home of my HEI setup. I went through all of this, intimately, for about a week and a half, about 12ish years ago.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
In theory, I think, it doesn’t matter where the rotor or diz sits physically, as long as the rotor and cap timing are correct, they could be set anywhere. But you have the oil pump to engage and most dizzies have the vacuum advance diaphragm housing, which interferes with the block, so it has to be pointed out, and away from the dipstick, oil filter, heater hose plumbing, etc...
So in reality, the diz can only occupy a specific space. And as it sits in that space, there is really only one place that the rotor must occupy, and that is in direct relation to where the electrical arc is going to go to initiate ignition. That’s #1. Everything falls into place afterwards.
So in reality, the diz can only occupy a specific space. And as it sits in that space, there is really only one place that the rotor must occupy, and that is in direct relation to where the electrical arc is going to go to initiate ignition. That’s #1. Everything falls into place afterwards.
