Just did HG with all the goodies and still loosing coolant : (

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So, two tidbits that may or may not help:

The radiator in the '93 had an issue with the upper crimp - it created a fine mist in the engine compartment, no drips. I found it when I used a pressure tester. Not much coolant loss, though.

The 12-year old radiator in my K5 developed a leak in one of the tanks that would leak only in the cold, and self-seal when the engine came to operating temperature.

I replaced the radiator with a new OEM just a couple of months after I got it so I'd say its about 6 months old now. It's possible it could have a pinhole leak, but I can't find any leaks anywhere using the UV dye.

I put in a new engine and even after I burped the system the coolant would go down in reservoir for a few weeks of driving until it eventually stabled.

That is some good news, I have been DD'ing it for 2 weeks now. Have probably put over 500 miles on it.
 
I replaced the radiator with a new OEM just a couple of months after I got it so I'd say its about 6 months old now. It's possible it could have a pinhole leak, but I can't find any leaks anywhere using the UV dye....
Perhaps it would be worthwhile to pressure-test the coolant system?
 
Did you talk to the fellas about pulling the valve cover off and retorqueing the head bolts to see if it snugs the head down on the gasket just a touch more?
 
You had mentioned @fj40z that sometimes the tailpipe smelled sweet, sometimes not, back on page one. Besides the weird oval, how did the HG look after teardown? Were any pistons shiny/cleaner than the others? Hear me out, but I wonder (as mentioned above) that you could have missed final torque on a head bolt, so when it's cold a bit of coolant weeps by and is burned off out the tailpipe. Engine gets warm and it seals up good enough to stay together. That sweet smell from the tailpipe is a telltale sign that you have some coolant leaking, which would also be apparent via a clean piston. Take that theory, and add to it you're getting some juice in the oil, and I'd start to think maybe the headbolts weren't torqued just right. Was your Hg a Toyota part I presume? Did you use anything on it, such as gaskacinch or other products? I've seen that stuff work wonders on 22R/RE engines, and become a nightmare on a SBF. It's also been near two days, what's the update also?
 
This is the above mentioned product. I typically shy away from things like this, as a properly machined and assembled engine shouldn't need something like this.
Screenshot_20170222-021852.webp

This stuff is popular, so much that Edelbrock makes some now!
Screenshot_20170222-021922.webp

Keep us updated, what's the latest info?
P
 
Great info @Phildoh Well Monday evening I decided to try burping the coolant system one more time with the funnel @stevezero let me borrow. I had done this once before but I questioned whether I had got the front end up high enough. So I decided to give it another go. I pulled it on a gravel pile, filled the funnel and held it at 3000 rpm until I got no more bubbles. I topped off the reservoir and thank god my coolant level has been dead on the full mark since. I was gonna give it a couple days of driving (I drive a lot) and make sure it was still staying full, checked it after I got to work this morning and still dead on the mark. This is great news as by this time I would have already dropped some. I am still hawk eyeing it to death but hopefully it was just air trapped in the system. As far as the goop under the cap, I'm wondering if I can attribute this to normal condensation or also the PCV I replaced in August was not opening up freely? I replaced the PCV last night.

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I know you probably did this but did you drain the oil and coolant and change them after the rebuilt? Did you get all the coolant out of the block?
 
I do my flushes on a steeper incline than that. Also, are you putting the heater on HOT and also doing the rear heater?
 
I know you probably did this but did you drain the oil and coolant and change them after the rebuilt? Did you get all the coolant out of the block?

I did change the oil immediately after the rebuild, drained the coolant from the radiator but did not drain the block. I did replace water pump, thermostat, and all hoses.
 
I do my flushes on a steeper incline than that. Also, are you putting the heater on HOT and also doing the rear heater?

I bypassed the rear heater during the hg but yes I did have the heater on hot.
 
I do my flushes on a steeper incline than that. Also, are you putting the heater on HOT and also doing the rear heater?

Inclines are stupid. You people realize the rad cap is the highest point in the coolant system for a reason, right?

Some people's kids.
 
Guess we are not all as perfect as you :flipoff2:

The intent of the post was seeking help and suggestions but the sarcasm ads little if any value to the conversation. The rear heater valve also rivals the cap height in the system.
 
Inclines are stupid. You people realize the rad cap is the highest point in the coolant system for a reason, right?

Some people's kids.
It's too try to get bubbles that are trapped in the many bends and turns in the system. Once again, you add zero sustenance to a thread.
 
You realize the system flows, right?

Maybe you should try driving the vehicle backwards and see if it pushes the bubbles the other way. I can't take credit for that idea, @inkpot came up with that one.

Or...test pressure?
 
Inclines are stupid. You people realize the rad cap is the highest point in the coolant system for a reason, right?

Some people's kids.

Dang man chill out.

Also if you'll notice the HCV is actually higher than the radiator cap.
 
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