Just bought this 1985 Cruiser - got a list of fixes and would appreciate advice and sources for parts please (3 Viewers)

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When you take off the steering wheel center cover, have you confirmed that the single wire is connected to the spade terminal on the dash-side of the connection? I've seen them fed in there but not actually connected before.
Yes, I connected it - still got a few possibilities I can try with the circuit tester to diagnose

I'd not have known that about the head being off and painted - thank you, I thought it looked rather clean

can you tell me anything else about what's been done to it from these pics please?
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Hard to tell from the small pics, but it looks like the desmog was not carried out correctly. Go through this guide, then go through it again. Heads up, you're going to need a VCV or two and some new vacuum line.

Otherwise, it looks like your radiator and master cylinder are fairly new. The rubber thing on your battery pops into the top of the fender.
 
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4Cruisers

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Your distributor cap is missing the vent hoses, and there's no vacuum hose on the outer nipple of the advancer. The outer nipple is for the High Altitude Compensation system, which you may or may not need/want based on your location. Both of those are affected by how your (partial) de-smog was done - most of the vacuum system is inter-related.
 
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Hard to tell from the small pics, but it looks like the desmog was not carried out correctly. Go through this guide, then go through it again. Heads up, you're going to need a VCV or two and some new vacuum line.

Otherwise, it looks like your radiator and master cylinder are fairly new. The rubber thing on your battery pops into the top of the fender.
I fixed the horn and found where the rubber thing you mentioned goes. Thanks!

The guide looks very comprehensive but at this stage I'm a little intimidated by it. It mentions welding holes shut - I can't do that. I don't even know what desmogging is, why it is necessary and what the consequences of not doing it are. Can you help explain please?
 
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I fixed the horn and found where the rubber thing you mentioned goes. Thanks!

The guide looks very comprehensive but at this stage I'm a little intimidated by it. It mentions welding holes shut - I can't do that. I don't even know what desmogging is, why it is necessary and what the consequences of not doing it are. Can you help explain please?
I suspect the hard parts have already been done. Like 4C said, I’d hone in on the required vacuum connections from the distributor and the HAI/BVSV.
 
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bwesty

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Do a valve adjustment. Change fuel filter often. Check the rubber seal at air filter housing to carb transition. Available new from Toyota, make sure it's seated and sealed well.
If your headlights are just satisfactory, consider the OEM Toyota Koito headlamp kit ~$45 and high quality. Be sure to adjust them after install.

Interior rear cargo light available from Toyota, not sure on the dome.

Enter your VIN into the Partsouq site and look at the catalog and determine part numbers. Some parts are less expensive from your local dealer and others are not.
 

2mbb

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your FJ60 originally came with many parts and systems to reduce tail pipe emissions: Air Injection & catalytic converter, Exhaust Gas Recirculation are the main systems. By the looks of your pictures your truck has had at least the air injection system removed, and maybe also the Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Removing or disabling these systems will effect other parts (eg. distributor advance) that will need to be addressed to have the engine operation optimized.

Because you are already missing key components (your air pump is probably missing or gutted), your best bet is to ensure the desmog has been finished correctly. Identify which parts are there, which are already gone and migrate towards what is recommended in the guide linked above.

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your FJ60 originally came with many parts and systems to reduce tail pipe emissions: Air Injection & catalytic converter, Exhaust Gas Recirculation are the main systems. By the looks of your pictures your truck has had at least the air injection system removed, and maybe also the Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Removing or disabling these systems will effect other parts (eg. distributor advance) that will need to be addressed to have the engine operation optimized.

Because you are already missing key components (your air pump is probably missing or gutted), your best bet is to ensure the desmog has been finished correctly. Identify which parts are there, which are already gone and migrate towards what is recommended in the guide linked above.

View attachment 2596170
Thanks very much for this explanation. I looked it up and had sort of figured that out but it's a relief to have it confirmed. This is something I never heard of before or contemplated so it's a little intimidating to have to do.
 

Gretsch

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your FJ60 originally came with many parts and systems to reduce tail pipe emissions: Air Injection & catalytic converter, Exhaust Gas Recirculation are the main systems. By the looks of your pictures your truck has had at least the air injection system removed, and maybe also the Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Removing or disabling these systems will effect other parts (eg. distributor advance) that will need to be addressed to have the engine operation optimized.

Because you are already missing key components (your air pump is probably missing or gutted), your best bet is to ensure the desmog has been finished correctly. Identify which parts are there, which are already gone and migrate towards what is recommended in the guide linked above.

View attachment 2596170

Good advice here. Having just recently completed this as part of my COVID project list, I can tell you it takes some effort, but your truck will thank you OP. GL.
 
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I suspect the hard parts have already been done. Like 4C said, I’d hone in on the required vacuum connections from the distributor and the HAI/BVSV.
Thanks - I'm going to start on that once I get it back. I took it for an inspection and they said it needed a new set of manifold gaskets. When I asked to be showed why, they used a mirror and flashlight to show me one of the manifold joints where there was some carbon around the edges. quoted me $790 for it. Is this excessive? Also parking brake which is probably down to the bell crank arms for $300. I could probably do the brakes myself but I'm apprehensive about trying to do the manifold gaskets - what do you think please?
 

mtbrown619

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Thanks - I'm going to start on that once I get it back. I took it for an inspection and they said it needed a new set of manifold gaskets. When I asked to be showed why, they used a mirror and flashlight to show me one of the manifold joints where there was some carbon around the edges. quoted me $790 for it. Is this excessive? Also parking brake which is probably down to the bell crank arms for $300. I could probably do the brakes myself but I'm apprehensive about trying to do the manifold gaskets - what do you think please?

Manifold gasket is tedious but pretty simple. It was the first major engine task I did on my 60. It will also give you an intimate look into your emissions components (or lack there of) and give you an opportunity to make sure everything is routed properly so I say go for it.
 

mtbrown619

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Correct. I replaced a lot of the hardware, as far as mounting bolts/studs, since they were 35 years old and I was in there. @ToyotaMatt has some nice exhaust-to-manifold studs for sale on his website. I've probably got part numbers around somewhere if you need them, but the schematic should be sufficient. It's a well-documented job here, so the search bar will be your friend and the FSM is invaluable. When I was taking stuff off, I would rip a scrap of paper, number it, write what it was according to FSM, and take a picture of the scrap next to how it was originally installed on the truck and then put those parts in a quart Ziploc bag with the scrap of paper. It was painstaking, but I also didn't f*** anything up, so it was worth it.
 
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Thanks for the advice (and everyone who has replied) is this the galley plug screw and does that look like someone has taken care of it for me?

In spite of this plug being in the hole, I would put an Allen wrench in that plug screw and be sure it's tight. If you can remove it, do so, and then reinstall it with JB Weld, or just be sure that it is GOOD and TIGHT and will not back out. If that plug falls out, it will cost you an engine.

The fact that someone fixed that is a good sign that one of the POs had a clue!
 
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so heartening to see all the help/info pour in. Probably the most dedicated forums on the internet!

oh and congrats @Dave L - enjoy and take it nice and slow - there will be something that will always keep you occupied :)
 

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