1985 FJ60 (all stock)
California Smog
Helping a friend to pass Smog. 10 days before the TLCA Rubicon (rubithon).
1st Test
Failed due to High CO (unburnt hydrocarbons?)
Rebuilt the carburetor (last rebuild 10 years ago) based on the various experts that live on the internet.... Internal gas leaks.
Ordered a carb rebuilt kit from Cruiser Corps. Kits on back order....found a 2F kit from Mikes Carburetor (new float as well).
Side note: After rebuilding the carb, on the way to Smog test, the rig would not run in 3rd gear (missing and bucking). 1st and 2nd were ok. Did the test outlined by the Google brain trust. When the rig starts missing, kill the engine and coast to a stop. Check the float level. Float window was dry. Checked the fuel pump (ok). Recalled during the carb rebuild, the replacement needle valve, plunger, and spring range of motion was different from the one removed. Took the air horn off the carb, pulled the float and installed the previous needle valve and seat. Re-adjusted the float range of motion based on the old needle valve. Reassembled the carb. Rig runs smooth through all the gears. Rig stalling problem solved.
2nd Test (fail)
CO numbers are now perfect.
Failed again...NOx numbers too high. Based on natural selection.... Decided to replace the Catalytic converter. Converter was more than 5 years old. Knowing the aftermarket converters do not last long. This has always worked in the past.
3rd Test (fail)
Failed again
NOx numbers actually higher running a brand new CAT....High NOx points to overheated combustion chamber temperatures in turn over heated CAT. This RIG does not have the Toyota temperature sensor inserted into the CAT. Not having the converter temperature probe was never an issue. The toyota temperature probe is/was setup to turn off the Air Injection when the CAT gets too hot.
EGR function now bad? the EGR releases exhaust gases into the engine to help cool combustion chamber.
Checked EGR function, BVSV control, etc. Everything checked out.
Checked ABV function as best I could. Most of the small ABV hoses are very brittle (Need to keep the hoses intact).
Could not check the one valve on the Air Injection rail. Torqueing on the valve body would/could break the rusty air injection rail.
Checked all vacuum lines and connections. Maybe a VAC line was misplaced.
Checked all three electric VSV's for flow and function.
Discovered the vacuum switch (not VSV) that reduces fuel to the carburetor during deceleration is bad. This switch reduces gas/fuel into the carburetor when slowing down or coasting. The FSM says this switch not working (failed the FSM continuity test) will overheat the catalytic converter by dumping too much gas into the exhaust. The FSM vacuum deceleration test works per the FSM. Pinch the vacuum line the rig will start to buck and miss above 2000Rpm.
Any ideas, or direction I should take.
Thanks for reading
California Smog
Helping a friend to pass Smog. 10 days before the TLCA Rubicon (rubithon).
1st Test
Failed due to High CO (unburnt hydrocarbons?)
Rebuilt the carburetor (last rebuild 10 years ago) based on the various experts that live on the internet.... Internal gas leaks.
Ordered a carb rebuilt kit from Cruiser Corps. Kits on back order....found a 2F kit from Mikes Carburetor (new float as well).
Side note: After rebuilding the carb, on the way to Smog test, the rig would not run in 3rd gear (missing and bucking). 1st and 2nd were ok. Did the test outlined by the Google brain trust. When the rig starts missing, kill the engine and coast to a stop. Check the float level. Float window was dry. Checked the fuel pump (ok). Recalled during the carb rebuild, the replacement needle valve, plunger, and spring range of motion was different from the one removed. Took the air horn off the carb, pulled the float and installed the previous needle valve and seat. Re-adjusted the float range of motion based on the old needle valve. Reassembled the carb. Rig runs smooth through all the gears. Rig stalling problem solved.
2nd Test (fail)
CO numbers are now perfect.
Failed again...NOx numbers too high. Based on natural selection.... Decided to replace the Catalytic converter. Converter was more than 5 years old. Knowing the aftermarket converters do not last long. This has always worked in the past.
3rd Test (fail)
Failed again
NOx numbers actually higher running a brand new CAT....High NOx points to overheated combustion chamber temperatures in turn over heated CAT. This RIG does not have the Toyota temperature sensor inserted into the CAT. Not having the converter temperature probe was never an issue. The toyota temperature probe is/was setup to turn off the Air Injection when the CAT gets too hot.
EGR function now bad? the EGR releases exhaust gases into the engine to help cool combustion chamber.
Checked EGR function, BVSV control, etc. Everything checked out.
Checked ABV function as best I could. Most of the small ABV hoses are very brittle (Need to keep the hoses intact).
Could not check the one valve on the Air Injection rail. Torqueing on the valve body would/could break the rusty air injection rail.
Checked all vacuum lines and connections. Maybe a VAC line was misplaced.
Checked all three electric VSV's for flow and function.
Discovered the vacuum switch (not VSV) that reduces fuel to the carburetor during deceleration is bad. This switch reduces gas/fuel into the carburetor when slowing down or coasting. The FSM says this switch not working (failed the FSM continuity test) will overheat the catalytic converter by dumping too much gas into the exhaust. The FSM vacuum deceleration test works per the FSM. Pinch the vacuum line the rig will start to buck and miss above 2000Rpm.
Any ideas, or direction I should take.
Thanks for reading
